Fuel Filter Replacement Problem

they keep these in stock at the dealership. get new copper washers too to prevent leaks.

colenzae said:

I think the flange nut needs to be replaced. I never did that before. Anyone have any advice??

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You'll need to cut the line to get the old nut off, then re-flare the line. Using a hack saw will put metal particles in the gas line - but the new filter should trap them as the bottom connection is the inlet. The best way is with a tube cutter. You can get mini ones to fit in tight places. Better make sure you have enough pipe length after cutting the line.

If you examine your flare nut and the threads look ok and the nut is not deformed then it may just be a case of having to get the first thread started to get it to catch. I have found that flare nuts require you to start them absolutely square, any tilt and they will not catch the first thread. Try using the old filter's threaded connection to run the flare nut in & out to clean up the threads of the nut. Using WD-40 or like also does not hurt.

colenzae said:

1997 four cyl. looks like it was never replaced before. The fuel line connection on the bottom of the filter was almost impossible to remove. Once I got it loose, after a few easy turns it got bound up and I needed all my strength to finally get it off. Now trying to put on the new filter I have the same problem. I think the flange nut needs to be replaced. I never did that before. Anyone have any advice??

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i've done 2 of 1997 2.2L fuel filter, all exhibit the same symptom u described, i didn't replace anything but the filter, just put a brand new one back, and it worked fine.

bronzemaxell said:

i've done 2 of 1997 2.2L fuel filter, all exhibit the same symptom u described, i didn't replace anything but the filter, just put a brand new one back, and it worked fine.

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Did you have to become Hercules to get the nut back on? I am afraid its going to snap! I'm having trouble keeping the whole thing from turning as I tighten the nut. I've done quite a few fuel filters before, none have acted like this.

are you not able to put a second wrench on the filter itself? it's been a while since i put one on, but i remember there being a place to put a wrench to keep teh filter from spinning.

Gibson99 said:

are you not able to put a second wrench on the filter itself? it's been a while since i put one on, but i remember there being a place to put a wrench to keep teh filter from spinning.

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I can get a second wrench on but the force required to turn that nut is so high that it's real hard to keep things from moving. I needed to use a screwdriver as a breaker bar to apply enough force to get the nut off. Now I have to use the same amount of force to tighten it up. This is after cleaning the rust off the threads, applying WD-40 and anti-seize compound. I'm afraid I might have to change the nut or replace the whole fuel line. Do you know how long the fuel line is and if it's a pain to replace it??

doh... for some reason i was thinking it was a banjo bolt on the bottom, not a flare nut fitting. this fitting is only holding about 50 psi of fuel pressure so it's not like it has to have 1000 ft-lbs to tighten it. what i did was to put two open-ended wrenches on it (flare nut wrench aka line wrench is better) and squeeze the two wrenches towards each other to tighten it. that way i'm not fighting any rotation at all - it relies solely on my hand strength.

also just to check - you're only tightening it till it's tight... you're not trying to get the "head" of the nut down flush with the nut on the filter, are you? flare nut fittings don't work that way. it just needs to be tight - doesn't matter how deep it goes into the fitting. overtightening it will CAUSE leaks, so be careful!

colenzae said:

I can get a second wrench on but the force required to turn that nut is so high that it's real hard to keep things from moving.

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Cross threaded? Once the nut is started it should almost go on finger tight until the flare makes contact. Something definately wrong.

Stillrunning said:

Cross threaded? Once the nut is started it should almost go on finger tight until the flare makes contact. Something definately wrong.

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It's not cross threaded. I had the same problem taking the old filter off. I have decided to replace the nut. I bought all the needed tools today and will tackle this over the weekend. I'll post my results when I'm done.

colenzae said:

Did you have to become Hercules to get the nut back on? I am afraid its going to snap! I'm having trouble keeping the whole thing from turning as I tighten the nut. I've done quite a few fuel filters before, none have acted like this.

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just about the same amount of effort to tighten nut as loossing it, took me about 2 hours, and my back hurts from benting over too long.

i was using two wrenches, one 14mm flare wrench for the buttom nut that is on the fuel line, and regular 17mm (may 19mm?) on the fuel filter, just right above each other, and squeeze the two wrenches respective for loosing and tightening.

like i said, two 97 4cyl were exactly like that, so i assume it is normal, but it is a bitch.
i've done a few V6s, and no such hassle.

Just be glad that it's not an accord, those filters suck to replace.

I did this just last week and had the same problem (or thought it was a problem). I used teflon tape and tightened it as tight as I could and it didn't leak.

JamesT1 said:

I did this just last week and had the same problem (or thought it was a problem). I used teflon tape and tightened it as tight as I could and it didn't leak.

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Which type of Teflon Tape? A Goggle search seems to show that the white tape is not compatible with gasoline, but the yellow tape is. I know the yellow is spec'd for natural gas. Also Teflon tape is not meant for straight threads, only taper. It may hold but I would check it once in a while.

Stillrunning said:

Which type of Teflon Tape? A Goggle search seems to show that the white tape is not compatible with gasoline, but the yellow tape is. I know the yellow is spec'd for natural gas. Also Teflon tape is not meant for straight threads, only taper. It may hold but I would check it once in a while.

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No teflon tape need. The way the flare is set up, does not need it. There is somethimes an o-ring, so no teflon is need.

jack up the front left and take the tire off to get at the bottom

Crazy_Butcher said:

No teflon tape need.

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Yes I understand, I worked in hydraulics for many years. The use of the tape seems to be to compensate for damaged threads on the fitting or that was what JamesT1 was indicating. Don't agree with the "fix" especially on gasoline fittings.

Stillrunning said:

Yes I understand, I worked in hydraulics for many years. The use of the tape seems to be to compensate for damaged threads on the fitting or that was what JamesT1 was indicating. Don't agree with the "fix" especially on gasoline fittings.

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No, honestly, I thought it was just a good idea to add it on the line going "up" into the filter - no science behind my logic. If the threads are damaged, just buy a new fitting - that's what I did.

These are notorious for being a bear. Very difficult.