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FYI: Just Replaced My Driver's Side Power Lock Actuator (NOW UPDATED WITH PICS!)

Well, I thought I'd give my 2 cents on what it took to replace the driver's door power lock actuator in my '99 Camry XLE. I did not have to remove the outside door lever or keylock. Neither I did not have to remove the window nor interior door lever. I just left the window in the up position.
1.) Go here to see how to remove the Gen 4's door panel.
2.) Remove the sheet metal cover covering the large opening in the door (lower left) and pull back on the plastic shielding to clear the door openings. Then unclip the black plastic retainer holding some wiring nearby the bottom large door opening and push it out of the way so that it will aid in your getting access to the latch and removing it.
View of me removing a screw to the metal covering:


3.) Remove the bottom screw to the left window channel.
View of the screw attaching the bottom of the left window channel:


4.) Loosen but DO NOT REMOVE the top nut to the left window channel. You just want to loosen it enough so that you can move it around.
View of the top nut holding the left side window channel:


5.) Remove the link rods from their retainers which are attached to the latch assembly that go to the interior door lock and interior door opener levers. They're a little stubborn, just rotate up on the plastic retainers while simultaneously rotating down on the link rods and eventually the retainers will let go so you can slide the rods out of them. I used a very small screwdriver to help them separate.
View of the link rods and retainers:

Another view pointing to where I placed the small screwdriver to help them separate:


6.) Remove the wire harness connector off the power lock actuator by depressing the release tab firmly on the wire harness connector and then pulling firmly on the connector to unplug it. May have to use a mirror so you can see where the release tab is at on the wire connector.
A view of the connector and where to depress the release tab:


7.) Reach in up above and separate the outside door handle's link rod from its retainer at the handle assembly. If you need a better view of it, there's an access hole directly in front of it that will allow you to see it better, it was covered in tape on my car.
View of the access hole:

Just like the other link rod retainers, rotate it so that it unlocks off the link rod but you will then need to use a screwdriver as a wedge in between the rod and its plastic retainer because you'll need to "pop" the link rod out of the retainer as they are designed to grip each other even though the retainer had been rotated off the link rod.
View of link rod and retainer from below still connected to the outside door handle:

Another view of the rod and retainer:

View of the link rod and its retainer looking thru the access hole (still connected together):


8.) Swing the window channel enough out of the way so that you can reach in to remove the keylock's link rod off the latch assembly. I also had to break off a piece of the black plastic shielding surrounding the link rod on the latch assembly so that I could get my fingers to reach in and get access to the rod and its plastic locking retainer. After rotating the plastic retainer off the rod, slide the rod out of the retainer.
View showing the keylock's link rod, the window channel, and plastic shield remnants that remain after I had broken part of it away to gain access:


9.) Remove the 3 screws holding the latch/actuator assembly and then "snake" the assembly out through the opening in the door making sure nothing is catching anywhere to hinder your removal of it. It takes a bit of fiddling to get it out as the keylock rod hanging down can catch on it and the outside door lever rod will try to get caught as well as the loose window channel and that wire that you unclipped its retainer off the door earlier runs through there. Just keep moving stuff out of the way and it'll come out.
View of the 3 Torx screws holding the latch:


10.) Then once you get it out, take note of how the actuator's plastic lever sits into the latch assembly and then remove the 3 phillips screws attaching the lock actuator to the latch assembly and viola, it's now time to install the new one and "reverse the steps during removal":clap:

The torque spec on the 3 Torx screws that attach the latch/actuator assembly to the door is pretty low at only 43 inch pounds (NOT foot pounds), so don't overtighten them or you may end up needing a latch assembly, too:headbang:.

I also verified that the actuator actually was not working by jumping it off the battery by using small alligator clips clipped onto the two center pins of its wire connector to see if it would do anything. I alternated back and forth on the battery's positive to negative and all it did each time was make a slight noise and no movement.

Well that's all I got and I hope this helps someone:cool:.
 

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Wow thanks for the great write up. I've had problems with my locks but have not been able to figure out how to get them out of there.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I added pics and clarified some things :D.
 

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Nice work! Added this to stickied DIY thread.
 

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now I know this was back in april, but I do have a question. I'm having three of these darn things go out at the same time in my 95. Thought it was a failing alternator (which actually did cause a lot of other electrical problems). After installing the new one, however the locks didn't fix themselves. they get stuck halfway through movement. Tried greasing them, with no luck... So i'm thinking I'm gonna have to pull 3 out of a junkyard cause they're so expensive.

Do you think it might be something else causing it?
 

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now I know this was back in april, but I do have a question. I'm having three of these darn things go out at the same time in my 95. Thought it was a failing alternator (which actually did cause a lot of other electrical problems). After installing the new one, however the locks didn't fix themselves. they get stuck halfway through movement. Tried greasing them, with no luck... So i'm thinking I'm gonna have to pull 3 out of a junkyard cause they're so expensive.

Do you think it might be something else causing it?
I frankly can't think of any reason why a bad alternator would cause power lock actuator motors to not work properly unless the voltage coming off the battery was extremely weak (the car probably wouldn't even run). Anyways, if you have a digital voltmeter, you can check the voltage reaching the electrical terminals to the power lock to try and rule out a circuit issue or a bad switch. Or you can "jump" the terminals straight off the battery using a fused wire as I did to verify that it was the actuator itself that's not working properly and not a wiring problem or binding in the door's locking mechanism. Good luck.
 

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Thanks a bunch for taking the time to share this. Much appreciated.

Can you give me the part number for the door latch assembly? The actuator on mine seems to be working fine but the latch seems to have failed as it won't operate (engage/lock) although all links seem to be fine.
 

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Speedkar99 on YouTube
2003 Camry
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DIY: Power Door Lock Actuator Replacement

Just updating this thread with my power door lock actuator replacement.

My Solara's passenger side lock actuator started failing first, then the drivers side soon after. It was getting worse in hot weather. Annoying to stretch over and open the door lock manually, but at least I only have 2 doors!

Here's a video on how it was done:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1T34GgDNjI



A few photos of the procedure:

Door panel removed:



Remove the interior door handle and its cables:



Looking inside, the power door lock actuator is the black thing on the right, part of the door latch assembly:



A closer look at the connections around the door handle:



A closer look at the handle rod that needs to be removed:



And the lock rod, looking through the access hole:



Once the door handle is removed, you can use a pliers to skin the tabs outward and pop the rod out:



3 torx bolts and 1 10mm nut hold the latch/lock assembly to the car:



A closer look at that white plastic connector for the handle rod:



Here's the black actuator attached to the latch:



If you pry open (I used a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel) the casing you can see the internal guts of the actuator. It consists of a 12V DC motor, a spiral gear / cam, the actuator, as well as some electrical contacts for the unlock, lock and unlock detection swtiches.



And this is pretty much what's inside the door lock actuator:

 

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further ? about actuator

I know this article was written awhile ago...still, the steps apply. However, how far do I go in removal of the steel actuator - if I only need to replace the electrical actuator only ...here is a picture of what I think I need to purchase
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Door-Lock-Actuator-Driver-Left-Side-Front-LH-Hand-TO1314107-69120AA010-/371385445186?hash=item56784c2b42&vxp=mtr
Front driver door and driver side rear passenger door do not work. Toyota part # 69120AA10 and DLA435 is what I about to order - unless someone tells me otherwise. Thanks.
Rich,
Tulsa
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I know this article was written awhile ago...still, the steps apply. However, how far do I go in removal of the steel actuator - if I only need to replace the electrical actuator only ...here is a picture of what I think I need to purchase
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Door-Lock-Actuator-Driver-Left-Side-Front-LH-Hand-TO1314107-69120AA010-/371385445186?hash=item56784c2b42&vxp=mtr
Front driver door and driver side rear passenger door do not work. Toyota part # 69120AA10 and DLA435 is what I about to order - unless someone tells me otherwise. Thanks.
Rich,
Tulsa
Yep that's all I had bought to get the job done. ;-)
 

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I just did this job (the Camry, not the other one posted later). You don't need to break that piece of plastic over the door lock rod. Put the key in the door lock and turn it and it will lift that connector enough that you can get to it, same with putting the rod back in place, use the key to put the rod in position to reinsert into the hole. Yeah, I'm gonna go ahead and just go with that wording.

Thanks for the original post, it helped me out.
 

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Ok, after earlier today replacing driver side front interior door handle, and the master power switch I attempted to get to the actuator. all of the other tips to get it out online were for the REAR door. And I kept getting hung up trying to getting the whole door latch assembly out, It was getting late in the eveing and I was losing light so i had to put everything back together without replacing the actuator. STEP #8 seems to be the answer. that second rod that goes from the exterior handles door lock. I figured that rod was something i needed to disconnect, but could not see how to attack it. The original poster said they actually broke some of the plastic to get that rod out. Even after breaking the black plastic It appears it might be tricky to get that rod out, but glad to finally see pictures of the driver side FRONT door. THANKS OP and thanks toyotanation.com
 

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2001 Camry XLE 1MZ-FE
2001 Camry XLE
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Is there any way you could replace the Photobucket pics with new uploaded pics? That would be very helpful. Mike

The photos will display fine after you get the PhotoBucket fix.
See my sig for links.

.
 

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The photos will display fine after you get the PhotoBucket fix.
See my sig for links.
That's awesome, THANKS! I added those two links to the top of the sticky thread. And when I have some time, I'll copy the pics and host them myself and edit the affected DIYs to recover the pics so they're visible for all browsers.
 

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I had gone ahead and replaced the Photobucket pics, just because they're a bunch of dodoheads for putting up roadblocks on their images!:disappoin
 

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I just did this job (the Camry, not the other one posted later). You don't need to break that piece of plastic over the door lock rod. Put the key in the door lock and turn it and it will lift that connector enough that you can get to it, same with putting the rod back in place, use the key to put the rod in position to reinsert into the hole. Yeah, I'm gonna go ahead and just go with that wording.

Thanks for the original post, it helped me out.
Hi, I'm planning to replace the broken driver's side actuator soon on my 2001 Camry and trying to visualize what to do here. When you say to put the key in the door lock and turn it, does it matter which way it's turned when disconnecting the rod and connecting it back?
 

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DIY: Power Door Lock Actuator Replacement

Just updating this thread with my power door lock actuator replacement.

My Solara's passenger side lock actuator started failing first, then the drivers side soon after. It was getting worse in hot weather. Annoying to stretch over and open the door lock manually, but at least I only have 2 doors!

Here's a video on how it was done:

Thanks for your video. Just wondering what Solara model year was this done for? Do you know how similar the instructions would be for a 2001 Camry?

In your video, you show removing the exterior door handle in order to disconnect a handle rod. I'm wondering if this would need to be done on a Camry as it's not mentioned in the instructions of the first post.

I wish there was a good video showing how to replace the actuator on a 4th gen Camry. I can't find any on youtube except for
. But this video isn't very comprehensive in my opinion, seems to leave out important steps, and doesn't really show how the various rods were disconnected to remove the actuator from inside the door (which seems to be the hardest task).
 
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