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1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
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Discussion Starter #181
do you mean "93 SE"?
There wasn't an SE available in the US in '92 that I knew of (V6MT was available in Canada only during '92, then in US in '93 with the introduction of "SE").

Note the '93 MY started in September of '92, but was officially the '93model year.
 

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I gotta catch up in this thread!

I could had sworn the SE was a debut in 1992-1993 with the 3VZ and 5spd MT option. I don't think Toyota had a 1994 'SE', but I recall seeing a 1995-1996 SE?

EDIT: Scratch that, Gen3 had option for 'SE', although I believe SE only was a trim available for the V6. I don't know what I was thinking....memory got jogged when I was looking at my insane folder of Camry pics.
 

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RX-7 Restorations
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The SE V6 debuted in 1992 and ran into 1993 as well. It was a two year run for that particular 3rd gen style's trim level. There was also a later option for a two door Camry which could also be had with a manual transmission. Scarce as hen's teeth. I have had one 92 and one 93 SE V6. Both had 5spd manual transmissions.
 

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The SE V6 debuted in 1992 and ran into 1993 as well. It was a two year run for that particular 3rd gen style's trim level. There was also a later option for a two door Camry which could also be had with a manual transmission. Scarce as hen's teeth. I have had one 92 and one 93 SE V6. Both had 5spd manual transmissions.
Or you could just get the 4th gen Celica which is lighter and 2 door from factory, and has pop ups. Same engine/trans and whatnot :D
 

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Gen3 SE could be had 1992-1996, only up to 1993 with the V6 manual transmission. Canada never got the SE badge but the same options/trim came as a "sport" edition. Canada got the 1995-1996 Coupe in LE 5-speed trim 5S-FE engine, DX only for U.S. market.

U.S. 1995-1996 got the Coupe SE V6 auto, Canada no 95-96 V6 Coupe in any trim. I think I got that all right. Toyota made some strange trim/model choices for the various markets.
 

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1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
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Discussion Starter #186
OK, I am going to sound really pedantic here, about this, but I have all of the brochures and launch information and I also remember when I bought an XLE in the fall of '91 (start of the '92MY, start of Gen3 production), because there was no SE available, and no V6 with an MT (as 71 Corolla points out, the V6 with an MT WAS available in Canada, on an LE that year).

Then, in September of '92 (start of '93 MY), they launched the SE model (basically the DX with power package (power locks and window regulators), differently tuned (+13% stiffer) springs, dampers & front strut top mounts, 10% quicker ratio steering rack, unique wheels, rear spoiler, V6 and MT option), I sold the XLE and bought an SE.

I just re-checked my files and re-confirmed that there wasn't an SE option offered in the '92 model year (9/'91~8/'92).

I probably should keep my mouth shut, though, because it really doesn't matter. Also, dealers could have made an "SE" on their own (it was easy to get a spoiler on an LX, there were a lot of them around).

Wonderful cars, in any case. Who knew they'd be such a high water mark?
 

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1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
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Discussion Starter #187 (Edited)
Door trims done.
The Gen3 trims were made from recycled wood fiber, and when exposed to water deteriorated badly, and the retention brackets rusted and came off. This is an example of the scrap ones I've removed from this project vehicle:
302433

Luckily, the donor car came with excellent quality trims. They were lower spec but the parts are interchangeable.
So, I painted the backside of the good set of trims with clear coat to help improve their water resistance.
I swapped the high grade stereo armrests (with tweeter) from the scrap trims, and installed the 2001 JBL tweeters (titanium dome, 2 ohm).

Photo of the LE, low grade trim (before):
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and after:
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Here is the back side, after complete disassembly, spray with clear (2 coats), clean and re-assembly (luckily the new JBL tweeter was a perfect fit):
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Back when I was trying to trouble shoot why the door lock switch wasn't working, I bought a new switch base. But, as you already know, from several posts ago, the real reason was a broken wire in the harness, which is now fixed. Since I have the new switch assembly I went ahead and used it (be VERY careful when swapping the outer bezel, it is attached by 5 small and very fragile tabs).

Note that it is NOT removable from outside (the door trim must first be removed from the door to access the switch retention:
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Also, one of the speaker grilles was losing its fabric wrap, so I removed it and re-glued it. Came out ok (a little wavy along the bottom edge, but hard to notice once installed):
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Although the donor car had excellent condition trims, the driver's had a crack near the bottom, not sure how it would have happened. I repaired it with hot melt glue, a piece of wood cut to fit the area, and a bunch of clamps:
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The crack in the vinyl wrap is hardly noticeable from outside (whew).


While I had them disassembled, it was a good opportunity to take apart the door pockets and clean out the soda/juice gloop and whathaveyou from the inside of them. Be VERY careful with all of the screws on these trims because they are tapped into soft ABS, and so the "torque" for them is "only enough until it just stops turning, not a smidgen more than that". Any more than that and you'll either strip the hole, or fracture the boss. If that happens to you, it might be repairable with epoxy, but is best avoided if possible.
 

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I just re-checked my files and re-confirmed that there wasn't an SE option offered in the '92 model year (9/'91~8/'92).
According to the chassis codes there was, starting 02/1992 production date. For whatever that's worth.
 

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1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
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Discussion Starter #189
For the heck of it I put in the upper trim (as stated previously, am purposefully leaving out the carpet and all lower trim until confirmed there is nothing to re-do, and that won't be for a few more months yet, once it is drivable).

Also, I made the reservation with the glass company to install the windshield next week, and move the back window from the scrap body to the good one. The SE side moldings for the windshield are NLA, so I will apply black out tape to a good set of used stainless steel ones. Also, the lower back window molding is NLA, but I was able to save the one from the donor body when stripping it for paint.
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My engine builder predicts he'll be done in about 3 weeks...
 

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1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
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Discussion Starter #190
"According to the chassis codes there was, starting 02/1992 production date. For whatever that's worth."

actually, it wouldn't be the first time I was wrong about something like that, in spite of all my attempts to be careful about such things: when the IS300 (V6) was introduced it was only available with an automatic transmission, so I kept my (what at that time was becoming a kind of an old car) Camry.

But, much later I found out they DID introduce an MT, at one of the later model year changes, but I didn't get the memo.

However, if I'd learnt that I would have sold this car and had an old IS now, or something else. So, maybe this was fate.
 

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@norm356 what glass are getting installed meaning brand.

On a '92 SE maybe there wasn't one or so few it never showed up in literature. I know there was a 1992 Canadian version I saw one at PnP way back when.
 

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RX-7 Restorations
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The SE was not listed in the 1992 dealer brochure. But I did personally own a 92 SE and I have an entire thread about the car here on the forum:

92 Camry SE paint and restoration .

It was likely introduced late in the model year and thus no literature was available in 1992. Either way I would own another in a heartbeat.

Sorry to see that your door panel backing is shot. I've seen that in the past. Not fun by any means.
 

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1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
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Discussion Starter #193
"what glass are getting installed" - I checked with my dealer (i.e., not local to me, because that one is crap, but another one that has been so supportive of this project, given me the low internet deal price on all parts, and who delivers), and he said the aftermarket windshields they get and the factory ones are made by the same company, just the word "Toyota" is not shown on the aftermarket one. I also checked with my glass installer, separately, and they said the same thing, that the glass they sell comes from the same factory in Japan where the OEM ones are made, without the "Toyota" on it.

Since the OEM windshield is NLA (according to a previous search), or if someone still has one, is priced about double what the aftermarket one costs, I decided I could live without the tiny "Toyota" brand in the corner.

Note: the original, JPN glass has a slight blue tint. For the Gen3 NA build, they paid extra to also have the local, green glass, tinted blue. I can't remember when the NA builds changed to the cheaper, NA market, standard green tint, it might have been at the '95 launch of the facelift and coupe. Anyway, the only tint that is available today is the blue tint, which matches what was in mine.

It is amazing that I have 2 Gen3 Camrys with 200,000 miles on them, and both with their original factory windshields, and another Gen3 with 100,000 miles on it, also with its original w/shield. Something about the glass angle of that model, perhaps, that stones, even when hitting it really hard, tended to deflect and not crack (some of the impacts over the years were really loud, but still no crack). However, after so many miles, the micro pitting, and the micro scratches simply make it too hard to see out of at night, so in goes a brand new one.
 

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1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
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Discussion Starter #194
"Sorry to see that your door panel backing is shot. I've seen that in the past. Not fun by any means."

Yes, I was very distraught the last time I had to remove one (to replace a broken outside handle, and then a year later to replace a broken key cylinder snap) and found that mess inside, and tried to repair it with various means which didn't work but luckily it still sort of held on until now.

I was amazed at the near perfect condition of the ones on the donor car. The only clue after I swap them will be the absence of the striped cloth (unique to SE). The process used to insert that cloth into the trim looks like the whole thing was molded in one step, so I'm not sure how anyone could replace the cloth insert (the ones I'm using will be solid grey, rather than striped), or how it would even be possible to remove the cloth from the old trim to use it again.

Hopefully, the solid grey will look fine. Maybe I'll hang on to the old trims for a while, just in case I ever take this car to Pebble Beach Concours and need them for a 100pts score and a trip to the trophy table!
 

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"what glass are getting installed" - I checked with my dealer (i.e., not local to me, because that one is crap, but another one that has been so supportive of this project, given me the low internet deal price on all parts, and who delivers), and he said the aftermarket windshields they get and the factory ones are made by the same company, just the word "Toyota" is not shown on the aftermarket one. I also checked with my glass installer, separately, and they said the same thing, that the glass they sell comes from the same factory in Japan where the OEM ones are made, without the "Toyota" on it.

Since the OEM windshield is NLA (according to a previous search), or if someone still has one, is priced about double what the aftermarket one costs, I decided I could live without the tiny "Toyota" brand in the corner.
Hopefully that is true the original glass is stellar. Most aftermarket glass is beyond crap in 3-4 years there are pits everywhere. Absolute junk.

Note: the original, JPN glass has a slight blue tint. For the Gen3 NA build, they paid extra to also have the local, green glass, tinted blue. I can't remember when the NA builds changed to the cheaper, NA market, standard green tint, it might have been at the '95 launch of the facelift and coupe. Anyway, the only tint that is available today is the blue tint, which matches what was in mine.
Japan made models (at least in Canada) had green, blue, and bronze tint depending on body colour.

It is amazing that I have 2 Gen3 Camrys with 200,000 miles on them, and both with their original factory windshields, and another Gen3 with 100,000 miles on it, also with its original w/shield. Something about the glass angle of that model, perhaps, that stones, even when hitting it really hard, tended to deflect and not crack (some of the impacts over the years were really loud, but still no crack). However, after so many miles, the micro pitting, and the micro scratches simply make it too hard to see out of at night, so in goes a brand new one.
It's not the angle, the original glass is extremely resistant to chips and cracks but like you said it gets micro pitting and scratches. This can be polished out to be about 80% better. In the 70's Yokohama used to make glass for Toyota mainly their more expensive cars like the Crown and Corona. This glass was impervious to any damage, you could bounce a brick off of the glass and chances are nothing would happen. I am not joking, I owned a Toyota Crown the glass was made with alien technology.
 

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1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
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Discussion Starter #196
Too bad they didn't have them make the windshields for the FJ Cruiser, those break when you look at them wrong (most owners have had them replaced bi-annually, due to constant stone chips and cracks).

I read that F150 trucks are available with Gorilla Glass (i-Phone screen tech). Would love for someone to invest in tooling to produce FJ Cruiser windshields out of that. I guess F150 is such a gigantic volume market they started there first.
 

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What is being produced now can hardly be called glass, I wonder what the hardness index is? I fixed and sold an '87 Camry it still has the original glass no cracks or chips. Pitting yes but I polished the worst of it out. I told the owner never to replace the glass. Another nice thing about original glass is no rust around the windshield this almost always happens due to glass replacement, the process of removing the adhesive exposes the metal.
 

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1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
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Discussion Starter #198
"the process of removing the adhesive exposes the metal." - very good point, I was pleased to see the Safelite tech had little 1-use paint packets to coat any bare metal during a recent windshield replacement in an old used vehicle I had purchased. He was careful to cover all (there were a lot) of places from past repair jobs that had been not so thoughtfully done. Some had begun to rust so we sanded them down and re-painted before putting the new windshield in.

I shudder to think what rust around the windshield opening would evolve if that kind of paint damage on the mounting flange was done to a car one wanted to hang on to for a long time.

The tech said that they used to assume the urethane would cover it, but learned otherwise, so they had these little paint packets made (like ketchup packets, with an applicator) and use them every time. He also had sandpaper and cleaner ready, to deal with what he finds when taking out the old windshield.

I've heard good and bad stories about every glass installer around, it looked to me like that kind of stuff all came down to the conscientiousness of the tech.
 

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1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
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Discussion Starter #199
"Hopefully that is true the original glass is stellar."

I just looked into it again, according to the sources I was able to, the "OEE" (original equipment equivalent", meaning made in the same plant, by the same maker on the same tooling as OEM), is what my glass shop only uses. They said it is how they keep customer complaints to the minimum. That matched what the dealer parts guy I talked to said they use, on out of warranty vehicles, to save their customers money. They said the only difference was the in the label. Apparently, the glass makers are allowed to run some quantity of these parts, when they run mass production parts, for just this purpose. Since the tool set up was paid for by the OEM, these "OEE" parts cost less to make, and that's why they cost less to the consumer.

I'll find out next week when it goes in. The OEM supplier was LN glass (Nippon Sheet Glass), so that's what I'll be looking for.
 

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1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
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Discussion Starter #200 (Edited)
Here's how to deal with aged and worn out SE (black) exterior moldings.
Only a couple of the SE exterior moldings are still available, so I had to restore mine and / or use shiny stainless ones from a donor vehicle and apply my own blackout tape. Here's how to do that:

I used 3M exterior film, satin black. P3420. It has an adhesive release film on the back and a transfer paper on the top (the transfer paper is wrinkly to help allow you to stretch and form the film to its mating surface).
302628


Here is what my original windshield side moldings looked like. The PVC outer coating was badly worn off by the sun's UV, revealing the stainless steel base molding underneath. You could clean off the remainder of it and use that, or get a good condition set from another vehicle like I did.
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a clean set of good condition donor moldings (make sure the surface is food grade clean, use rubbing alcohol, before starting). If the surface is badly pitted, smooth it using bronze scrubby pads (sold in the paint aisle at the hardware store). Bronze is key because it is softer than the stainless steel, so it won't scratch that, and its debris will never rust (NEVER use steel wool on anything automotive, it will embed particles which will quickly rust and wreak havoc on whatever you'd tried to clean with it).
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Use a straightedge and a razor to cut strips the necessary width. Watch out, the film will try and bend as you cut it unless you take care to keep it the desired width while cutting.
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To apply the film, begin peeling off the adhesive backing sheet and as you lay the film onto the part, pull it gently to stretch it flat, and follow the contour of the part, gradually peeling off more of the adhesive backing sheet as you go:
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On this windshield molding it is necessary to wrap the film 90 degrees around the corner / shape so apply it to the "class A" face first and make sure it is well stuck down and has no wrinkles.
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Then wrap it around the rest of the shape:
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Finally, once it is fully applied, then remove the transfer paper (getting it started is a little tricky, but once begun, as long as you pull it back over itself there won't be any lift to the blackout film):
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Here's one side done, and the other one original:
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When you apply the film, leave it long at each end and the final step is cleaning up the ends. If there is a molded shape, razor cut the film right up to it. If there is a bare end, wrap a little of the film around the end (cut at the corner of a formed shape to wrap the ends around each face without stretching).

I've used this film on other moldings in the past, and it will easily last 10 years. Beyond that it will begin to decay like the original moldings did, and the stainless will eventually come back through. If you own the vehicle that long, you can do this again by simply cleaning off the remnants of the film with a bronze scrubby pad and rubbing alcohol. Sometimes you can even do this on the vehicle (no need to remove the molding first).
 
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