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Discussion Starter #42
I don't think they actually "build" parts here. I doubt. I know, there is light switch difference between Canadian and USA models. That I do.
But there are many differences between European market spec and USA market spec Camries. They even have "Eastern" market spec one. Mine is built in Japan and it's no different from one assembled in KY I believe? Kansas?
I'd say, if you are pulling a bumper cover off a junk yard Camry that was sold to the USA market and built in Japan, you are fine.
 

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Do you want the best thing or the cheapest thing? There is no best cheap thing when it comes to something like that. If you're cheap or on a budget, do what the above post said, but if you can afford it, get the bumper cover replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Bumper covers are cheap. It's the paint job that will get you.
Super glue will NOT hold. That's from a guy who works with glues and adhesives and resins professionally.
If you really want to do it, remove bumper cover. Get inside the cracked area and roughen it with very rough sand paper. Buy some fiberglass fabric and two part resin, Home Depot is your place. Cut suitable fiberglass patch, generously overlapping cracked area by several inches, apply resin to the roughened area, apply patch, apply resin over the patch and spread it evenly. Let it harden, roughen the patch and apply 2nd coat/layer of fiberglass.
It is hard to tell from pic, but appears plastic caved in a bit, right? There will really be no way to hold it straight while resin hardens... So it will have to be roughened on the outside, Bondo-d, sanded and spot painted. Aprts stores or Sherwin Williams will mix you a spray can paint match. Pain code is either in glove compartment or in the trunk. Tell them to mix clear coat into paint so that you do not have to spray coat it.
Good luck. That's why it costs what it costs at paint shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Well, if you were to remove the cover and get to the back of that crack, you can take heat gun to it and, believe it or not, melt the crack edges together. Done it. It's not very strong hold, but it can be done. Thing is, no matter what is done to that cover, it has to be done on a flat surface, as you can see, how that cover caved in and down. So any backing or melting or other mending of that cover needs to be done with the original shape restored, or it will look like crap. And it's "right in your face" area....
 

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Ignition switched power near back of car

does anyone know if there is a power source that is ignition/acc switched power near the back of the Gen7 TCH?
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I tried MMO on my TCH once and engine became so loud I changed oil right away. never again.
I use Seafoam - just did it again for oil change - in all of my cars since 2001 or so. Never had any issues, always had perfectly running engines.
Seafom does work.
 

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Led bulb info

I know many Camry owners use LED bulbs compared to Avalon owners. After one year one of my Philips Vision #921 backup bulbs failed. Probably caused by shock and vibration from closing the trunk lid. I didn't have the receipt for the warranty so I replaced with OEM. I still say try the LED bulb, you'll like it.
 

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CD door has not open

Hi everybody, I have a problem with opening CD door for loading CD. I push load on screen but CD door make no reaction and hearing some sound like loading from inside, but I'm sure no CD inside. But Nav map CD easy loaded and ejected from player. I have problem only with CD loading. Be kinly to suggest something for solve this problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Sorry, but I am confused.
You have two players.
One is under driver seat and is for navigation DVD.
One is in the car stereo, depends on what stereo you have.
So, do you have problem with regular CD player or with car stereo with navigation, as then it has front plate that flips down to allow access to CD changer inside.
You do NOT load CD into navigation DVD unit and the other way around.

 

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I have Camry 2008 with one player where one slots for map Nav (DVD)other for CD, in Nav slot I have navigation disk which worked normally, other CD slot has problem with opening CD door for loading music disk inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Removing rear rotor

Tips on how to remove rear brake rotor Following on what I found yesterday:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...-surprise.html

I did rotor replacement today.

This is not the 1st time I tried to remove rear rotor. Mof, I had question on wdf/ how to? several years ago posted here. As even about 25 000 miles back, I could not get them off.

Same happened today. Got caliper off, pads, caliper bracket. Rotor won't budge. Took old faithful mallet to it, like I did before - nope, rock solid.

So, here's the tips, as it took me about 40 minutes of very hard physical effort to get that thing off.

My car has 87 000 miles on it, but, like I said - 2 years ago and many miles less, I still could not get them off. And I know what I am doing.

1. It is not parking brake shoes holding it in place. Do NOT waste your time, backing up shoes. If rotor is sitting on the hub rock solid - not the shoes; wobbles a little bit but won't come off - it's shoes.

2. In case you are lucky and it IS shoes, locate rubber grommet and pop it out with flat head screwdriver.

3. Turn rotor so that resulting hole is at 32 minutes. Not 6 o'clock as manual says; you have to be slightly off, just like I said - at about 32 minutes mark, to get to adjuster. Adjuster is very narrow gear, so you have to be dead smack on it. You will NOT see adjuster wheel, it is pitch dark inside the rotor. Shining light through the hole does not help much; the way it worked for me, and I had 8 LED very bright flashlight, I cast light down into the hole from the top, at about 45 degrees. THEN you may possibly see adjuster.

4. By the book, adjuster is supposed to be turned "clockwise" to release parking brake shoes. Problem is, it is perpendicular to the rotor surface and then question becomes - which exactly way is clockwise? TO LOSEN THE SHOES, TURN ADJUSTER DOWN. You can access ONLY one side of it, facing you, so turning it down release shoes and you can slide rotor off. Parking brake self adjusts after you are done, just operate it several times.

5. You are not lucky. Rotor sits on hub solid. IT'S SELF WELDED TO THE HUB DUE TO RUST BETWEEN THE TWO. That's what it is, mi amigos, and has none to do with it being hybrid or having regenerative brakes. I thought Honda was bad about this, well, come to find - its biggest competitor is no better.

6. First line of attack is - mallet. Take a hefty mallet and start hammering on the lower rear part of rotor. That's about the only area you have enough swing to make, as you have to HIT IT HARD to have any results. Hit, rotate, hit, rotate, hit, rotate. You may get lucky, and it will pop loose.

7. No luck, it did not. Like mine. Grab some PB Bluster, insert straw, locate 2 holes in rotor with threads in them, and squirt a little bit of fluid in. Rotate and do same into the other hole. Repeat 5-6 times. Point is to get loosening fluid between hub and rotor. Squirt into little opening between studs and rotor, anywhere it will soak inside. Go have lunch.

8. Give it about an hour, maybe doing more squirts in between. Do the mallet thing again. It popped - hurray, it did not - well, next step.

9. Same bolts that hold caliper on guides will screw into 2 threaded holes in rotor( Thank you, Toyota). Start with hand tight, then put 14mm socket onto bolt head, and start turning it in. When it starts going sort of hard, stop, and do same with the opposite bolt. Then, go back to the first one, and keep alternating like this.

DO NOT OVERTORQUE BOLTS, as those holes have very shallow short threads and strip very easy, I learned that on Hondas. At some point, my rotor started making loud popping noise, like something was breaking. At that point I stopped, took bolts out, and noticed minor gap between hub and rotor, through those holes. Not being sure if were not tearing shoes inside, I squirted more PBB into that gap, and this time, it all went inside, instead of flowing out(GAP CREATED!!) and I went back for the mallet and after 4-5 solid swings and hits, rotor popped!

There was thick, solid layer of rust behind, where it was sitting on the hub. Btw, should you be burning through rotors or have wild non-diagnosable wobble in wheels - that rust easily causes it, as it does not allow rotor to sit flush on the hub. Now, thing is, and I had it done, mallet may not be enough. You may end up with sledge hammer taken to that rotor.

10. You got rotor off, 1st thing you do is to clean rust and put thick layer of antiseize between hub and rotor, to prevent this from happening again. DO NOT USE GREASE as brakes get hot, grease burns and cakes, and you back to same issue, just for different cause.

Last tip here - YOU HAVE TO HIT THAT ROTOR HARD, AS IN - FULL SWING HARD. New rotor is only $50 by Raybestos at O'Reilly, no big deal. And I had them sledged before, and never broke anything.

Also found my parking shoes were pretty much gone, will have them swapped Saturday. That was pass side one. I'll have to wrestle with driver one then.
Mof, I am considering buying air hammer. That rotor is not easy to hit by hand.
 
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