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Discussion Starter #1
We finally got the 89 SR5 started today by towing it down the street and bump starting it. After running it for a bit we turned it off and started it again (by key) and it started no problem.

But when we let the car cool down for a few hours and try to start it again it would not.n What do you think could be wrong?


Also when I punch the gas the motor bogs down and allmost stalls out. Are we in a need of a rebulid carb?

Another thing how do the secondarys open? (vac or mechanical)
 

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The Return of the Red Coupe
2010 RAV4 V6
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Little trick I learned from having a carbed car... take the cover on the carb off and stick a pencil on the butterfly to keep it open then try starting the car.. hopefully this will work, I think you might have flooded it too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
^^^ that has been done.


On a good note we did some weight loss obn the car car seeing we are using it for Ice Racing and we managed to take out 265lbs worth of crap.

What is the factory weight of this car? I saw something that said it was around 2200lbs is that right.
 

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Resident asshole
Corolla
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I think you got a dead battery... it'll hold the charge for a short while.. but on the longer run it'll lose its power, I had a battery like that once.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The battey is just fine, when I test it its 100 precent.

Punisher do you think I need a new carb? Do you think its also the carb that is making it not start?

How much is the carb?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Any idea what type of Webber? Model# etc? As we said above this car is going to be used as an Ice Racer and needs to start easy. FYI the first race that we had last year was -38 deg C. For those that aren't familiar with C it is the same as F at -40. Colddd!!
Thanks for any iput you can give.
 

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The carb that is needed is a 32/36 DGEV I belive from doing a search, but I can not seam to find the kit for an 4af.

Could someone point us in the right direction.

Thanks

Also after the carb is mounted it there much tuning let on the carb or is it more or less ready to go?
 

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What was the voltage across the battery when the car was running and when it wasn't?

Before you start messing with the carb, pull the plugs and have a look, ditto with the cap/rotor. It could be a million things causing the car to bog, the carb is the most expensive one.
 

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Deep said:
What was the voltage across the battery when the car was running and when it wasn't?

Before you start messing with the carb, pull the plugs and have a look, ditto with the cap/rotor. It could be a million things causing the car to bog, the carb is the most expensive one.
Voltage running=14.54v
not running=around 12-13.5v

New plugs, rotor/cap, and wires.


Problem #1= will not start. Will crank and crank and not even fart.
But if bump started it will start no problem.

Problem #2 Bog out when the gas is hit.

Iam out of ideas!!!!!
 

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At those temps you will want the stock carb.. because it circulates coolant through the stock carb to help keep the throttle from icing.

That plus it uses a pre-heater exhaust hose from the exhaust manifold insulator.. basically dumps warm air into the air intake to stop icing.
 

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We were thinking the same thing but with no suggestion that have fixed our problems it was a last resort.
 

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The car is now starting no problem!!!

Went to the j/y and got a hole distributor ass'y and put it in and it started right away. The coil must have been messed up but when tested the results were good."weird"

I have one more question.

Should I be able to see the secondary in the carb open all the way when revving the car in neutral or does it have to be under more of a load? Because they are only opening about 1/4".


Thanks for all the help!!!!!

Dave
 
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