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Our 04 highlander just started doing this, too. I noticed that if I turn the knob from cold slightly towrds hot, the clicking noise stops. Not good when its 105* outside and the AC is getting old and or needs a recharge.
I need to get under the dash and have a look. Hard to play contortionist with necks fusions. I'll let you know what I find out
-Brian
 

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Your pics look just like mine...
Ok, an update:
I finished tearing out the glove box. It's more of guessing game. If you pop out the glove box by pressing in on the sides, the rubber bumpers will clear the opening. After that I removed the trim(maybe not necessary) around the glove box, the glove box door is still hinged at the bottom. One the box opens completely, you will see 2 pins, one on each side. I was able to pry them towards the center and the box came out. Long slotted screw driver helps
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I also did this, but now I dont think it's necesssary: (when I put it back together, I will delete what isn't necessary...tomorrow)
If you crawl under, you will find 2 screws(maybe 3?) that attach the lower metal frame to the glovebox "hinge" . Once you remove them, the glove box should pop out.
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This you need to do:
After that, you will find a diverter tube(blowers the air to the feet) that has one screw towards the bottom. Remove it. Next, at the front of the diverter, and towards the top, there are those clips that you must pry up to release(there is also a clip on the back that you can't see, but is pretty much horizontal to the front clip) I just relased the front and front/top one, the popped it back towards the fire wall and broke the clip. After that it was easy to remove.
Once you have the diverter loose, you have access to the motor just like you showed in your picture. Remove 2 lower screws, the upper screw is hard to get to. Use a 1/4" ratchet, 1/4" 6point socket, and a Phillips drive tip inserted into the 6point socket(or a stubby screw driver , or...). This makes it easier. Remove the motor/drive.
Before I opened the motor/drive, I marked where the arm aligns on the back of the housing.

Carefully open the case by slightly popping open each clip. Work your way around. I broke one clip and partially broke another. Not a big deal(the clipsholds the two sides together, once it is put back together, the 3 mounting screws hold the two halves together.
Slightly pull up on the three copper contactors, so when you close the case, they rub against the copper plate on the other half(see the rings?)
I reassembled the motor/drive, installed it and the diverter, plugged in the motor drive tested it out
It works. I will wait a few days before reinstalling the glovebox assembly...just in case.
I have pictures if I can upload, but I'm not really computer savvy and type with 2 fingers(augh!)
-Brian
BTW.. when you first install the motor and test it. When you turn the knob from hot to cold and back, there is a delay and the arm moves a little up, then down, then moves to where it's supposed to go. I'm not sure why(doesn't seem right) but it may have something to with temperature. I did this repair when it was 103+ so that may have something to do with it. In the past, I noticed a slight delay, but not much
As long as the sound is gone, the car cools and heats when it should, I'm happy. I test drove the car and it's working...
 

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air mix....gum?

I'm new to the Toyotas, and am trying to figure out whats going on with the 03 4Runner I brought home yesterday. AC is Cold when set to LO, but hot when on 65. I had heard some clicking/buzzing yesterday the 2nd and 3rd time I started it up, but it has since stopped.
The fan does buzz and vibrate when on high.
So I looked underneath and found the following picture. It appears someone tried to perform a repair with GUM?!? I'm not sure if the clip on the right is supposed to go into something near the void?
 

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Sorry I can't help, I don't have the same interior climate control. Mine is the basic cold/hot temp and I don't recognize that part.
-Brian
 

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2001 Highlander
I want to thank all contributors to this thread, especially utmba95. The explanation and photos gave me confidence to delve in and fix it myself.

I've heard the grinding noise for years and didn't let it bother me though I did wonder about it. Last year the heating system stopped, but AC was working. I took it to the mechanic and they said they'll change the climate control circuit - but then they couldn't find a used unit so they ended it up "fixing" it for the same price $400. Less than a year later, this summer, we were camping in Canada and it got a little cold so we tried the heater, and guess what, didn't work. Also I noticed that the grinding noise went away. Didn't do much until November and took it to the mechanic. Paid $50 for diagnosis. He told me that the climate mixer needs to be replaced. Estimate of $700. Yesterday, I was fortunate to have come across this thread. I am not really an avid car tinkerer and I don't have the tools. But the fix was so simple - it took me 2 hours, 1 of which was to remove and put back-on the top screw on the servo unit. The unit inside was completely gunked up - grease has completely covered the contact tips and the entire lever dial which has the contact pattern. I don't understand how/why such amount of grease would get in there. Anyway, I cleaned it up, plugged it in before assembling and it worked. So I assembled everything back in to place. It is tough to get in there, I had to be upside down for about 45 min with that impossible screw.

thanks very much.
 

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I've tried this fix on my 03 Highlander, but the conductive coating was worn off where the copper “fingers” contacted the servo disk. Looks like I'm going to have to buy a replacement.


I saw on another thread that Toyota and GM share heating and A/C parts. The GM parts (and generics) are generally much cheaper. The thread doesn't have my part number and it doesn't say how to cross reference to the GM part #. I've spent a fair amount of time trying to track this down with no luck. Does anyone know the GM number (or ACDelco) for the Blend Door Actuator (Toy part # 87106-07081)? Or where to find a source to cross reference between these brands? Thanks!
 

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Not so far, but if you figure it out be sure to let us know.
 

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I've tried this fix on my 03 Highlander, but the conductive coating was worn off where the copper “fingers” contacted the servo disk. Looks like I'm going to have to buy a replacement.


I saw on another thread that Toyota and GM share heating and A/C parts. The GM parts (and generics) are generally much cheaper. The thread doesn't have my part number and it doesn't say how to cross reference to the GM part #. I've spent a fair amount of time trying to track this down with no luck. Does anyone know the GM number (or ACDelco) for the Blend Door Actuator (Toy part # 87106-07081)? Or where to find a source to cross reference between these brands? Thanks!
I am not finding that part number for a 2003-2009 4Runner application.
The damper with the part number you show is used on the following:
7/2001-1/2006 Camry, ACV30, MCV3*
7/2003-11/2008 Solara, ACV30, MCV31
8/1999-12/04 Avalon, MCX20

More work or you as I am waaay too lazy but try to find out if any of the above models had a sister GM vehicle also being produced and then check the GM parts manuals.
 

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I know it's a 4runner thread, but several Highlanders have posted above with the same problem. Mine's a 03 Highlander and it shares parts with the Camry. I'll keep working on it, but I haven't had any luck finding the GM part number. I may have to bite the bullet and spring for the OEM servo. It's way too expensive for a simple little servo, though.
 

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Any way to get the pictures back up? I would like to see how this is gotten too. I need to replace the air mix servo.


I've had this problem for a few years, but I didn't see any problems with it, just that it was an annoyance. After seeing this thread, I had to try and do something about it.

If you not exactly sure what the problem is, here is a video I took about 8 months ago before I knew what it was and where exactly it was coming from

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdWnA1XP6gY&feature=plcp

OP nails most of what you need to do. One thing that he leaves out is that it was quite difficult to remove the upper right screw of the servo housing to get it out. There is only about 2 inches width between the screw and some larger part of the A/C heating system [I think?]. The only way I could unscrew it was to hold a bit in there with my index finger on the middle part on back of it and my thumb on the end. In the other hand take a pair of needle nosers and start screwing downward, readjusting after each turn. This will test your patience. It only took a few minutes but felt like 20.

Here's a couple of pics throughout the process:

Take out the glove box and a few other parts for greater access.


The culprit:




Front of the unit:


Back of the unit: As OP said, take a pencil and mark the position of the arm. illustrated here by MS paint:


Housing open:


What you need to adjust. Just bend them downwards with needle nosers, try to make when all level.



Put it back together and insert back into vehicle:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34IgK--y-hM&feature=plcp

Success! Hopefully I don't have to keep doing this, or buy another motor.

Thanks, OP. Must appreciated.
 

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Thank you for the post. This problem has been bugging me for years. I own an 04 4Runner and I can see the part, but can't get to it. I tried everything. Does anyone have a dissassembly video for that model? I would owe you guys so big!

Moe
 
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