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I am sorry, but I have to say this.

It is absolutely ridiculous that OP had someone push on the breaker bar. The worry is exactly that something will pop back and hit him/her. So STAY OUT OF THE WAY!!!

Just think, the starter is stronger than you: you couldn't open the bolt, but the starter could and did.

For the next person who searches and finds this thread, I sincerely hope you do more research than OP, and from your research you realize that although this is widely recommended to work, this is considered a dangerous method.

In your research, you may also read some people suggesting leaving a little slack for the breaker bar to move/swing a little bit, and you put some padding on the control arm.
You're absolutely correct. The video someone posted had the breaker bar wired in or whatever( I think it was because it was a front mount rather than the side mount like we have), but stay away from where the action is. I don't bother to wire it down and definitely don't have someone hold the breaker bar. Something could come apart and cause some serious personal damage. The breaker bar could fail, the socket could split or just fly off. Justanothermechanic also stated he hit the starter for a second. Just bump it as it literally means. All the procedure is doing is releasing the torque not removing the bolt.
 

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I would hold off on heat, seen too many harmonics come apart without, unless you were replacing the harmonic anyway. Chances are if you break the head off the bolt, the shaft will come out of the crank. Seen them cut off, then harmonic removed and bolt remains removed without hassle. Last time we had to do one, brothers Acura Integra dropped the belt. We checked compression on all 4 cylinders, still good, borrowed impact from my old shops current owner (trained him) and it came off. Breaker bar from here on out if I ever have to do it again, but it is scary dangerous. Never get close with anything you aren't willing to loose!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Also be especially careful if you decide to go that way with the cams disconnected from the crank (t-belt broke). You CAN get it right with a 4 cylinder, but a 6 cylinder is very easy to bend a valve when it cranks if it's an interference engine. otherwise go 90% after TDC on cams and it should be good to turn with cams not connected.
Otherwise loosen cams to eliminate highest lift if cams are not connected to crank.
Test if not sure by cranking engine over by hand with ratched and plugs out if practical.
 

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Just putting this out there in case someone in the future wants to try the bump start method. The biggest key is BUMP the ignition key. Practice a few times before locking that breaker bar in. When we say bump, that means the very least amount of time you can make the starter turn is it. It is NOT turning the key to start, it's bumping the key to barely and very very briefly hitting the start position.

You're not bumping the starter, you're bumping the key.
 

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Need help.
Harmonic balancer bolt won’t come off.

I tried using liquid wrench/penetrating oil, a pulley holder + breaker bar, a impact air gun full speed reverse, tried tightening slightly further and undoing.

Only thing I’m worried about is applying heat/torching the bolt and having it break off when I try to take it off. This is also something I don’t have with me but can have later if this is the way to go
Will this break my bolt?
Is there a good way to take this bolt off?

The car has quiet a bit of rust under neath but still fairly good considering...
I also only have it on jack stands as i don’t have access to a hoist.
Anything helps to get this off would be appreciated. Thanks
Here you go: Lisle Harmonic Balance Socket Mine happens to be 19mm, P/N 77080. Go to Lislecorp.com and order your size. This socket weighs about 2 lbs. Its weight multiplies or otherwise enhances the power of an air wrench. I used three fingers of one hand and it was off in 2 seconds without turning or otherwise disturbing the balancer. My air wrench is a cheap two-piston model with about 600 lbs./ft. of rated torque. With the Lisle socket, I would guess that most any air wrench would work. For reinstalling, mark the balancer for the proper amount of rotation after the initial torque value, and just sneak up on it with a few quick hits of the air wrench. Easy peasy. No heat. No sweat. It just works.
 

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Hit it with penetrating oil, put a 6 point socket on it with a breaker bar against the control arm and bump the starter. It will sound like an expolsion but has worked for me every time,
Also after the penetrating oil has soaked in (I prefer Liquid Wrench), shock (hit) the bolt squarely with a hammer to help loosen it before bump starting. Also prevent the car from starting before turning the engine; I prefer disconnecting the crankshaft position sensor for this but you can just disconnect the coils or spark plugs etc. You don't want the engine to actually start.
 
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