:headbang:I am in the middle of putting in a new head gasket on my 97Camry2.2. I am presently trying to take out the timing belt and then water pump as I am also replacing these too. I am completely stuck trying to remove the 'crankshaft pulley bolt'. I have a Haynes repair manual. It is teling me to wedge a crowbar in the flywheel/driveplate gear teeth, and in order to get to the teeth I need to remove the 'flywheel/driveplate inspection cover'. But now the book is sending me in virtual circles on how to do this. I am lost, completely lost. No way can I afford to pay a mechanic to do this for me, and I have no experience whatsoever. The biggest mistakes I've made so far is having my family members help me out. One brother had me spinning the crankshaft while the timing belt was still on, which apparently has thrown the alignment of the valves all outta whack, causing me to have to do even more work to repair. Will someone please help me out here. Throw me a bone. Point me in the right direction please. How can I get this da-gonned pulley bolt off without causing even more damage................... -FIRST TIMER-
Heeeeeelp !!! !!!
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The easiest way by far is to use an impact gun, I'll assume that you don't have one. The flywheel inspection cover is on the bottom of the transmission bell housing near the oil pan. It should have some 10mm or 12mm bolts holding it on, and If I remember correctly a bracket that has to come off as well. You could also take out the starter and get to it through that hole. I've never had to take a crank pulley off without an impact gun, so maybe someone else will have some better tips for you.
I don't really understand that part, but setting the timing on these motors is really easy. When you get to that part there are plenty of people on here that can help you with it.
I don't really understand that part, but setting the timing on these motors is really easy. When you get to that part there are plenty of people on here that can help you with it.
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:welcome: Nothing happened. You were just turning the engine over.
Max out your air compressor and use an impact socket to get that bolt out. Works everytime, plus jamming up the flywheel is just a bad idea that's gonna be a pain.
Also you dont need a puller to get the crankshaft pulley off. Pull on it with your hands/ tap it a couple times with a hammer if its stuck. Ive never had to use a puller on a Japanese car.
thanx, Ima get back out to the d-way and try a little more. Wish me luck..... .... ... .. .
Here's a very complete DIY on how to do it.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=264425
And the method I've used, is called the bump start method. Here's a video of how it works. You just position the breaker bar, as shown, then remove the EFI fuse, and "bump" the starter.
Edit:
Here's another one that I posted after I did my timing belt following DZ63's write-up along with Marc780.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=322145
There are others, search the forum and you will find them.
Good luck, let us know how it goes
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Im gonna go and get some loooooong overdue sleep tonight and go rent the impact gun and compressor in the morning. And if that doesnt work for me, I will try the bumpstart method. Thank You all for your suggestions. They are all very helpful. I hope I didnt get in over my head here. I am no mechanic in any sense of the word, but am a very quick learner and have done far better, so far, than anyone who knows me wouldve imagined, thanx to all these posts
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Didn't work for me. I cranked up to 140 PSI and my impact wrench wouldn't budge it. Starter-bump method worked like a charm.
And agree, jamming the flywheel is a pain, especially if you try to access through the lower cover plate. Too much stuff to remove just to get the plate off. Accessing through the starter opening is not much better, but can be useful when torquing the crankshaft bolt back in.
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Hmm it usually works and I only have a 15 gal 150psi compressor, maybe your gun wasnt strong enough, I use a cheapish Husky one.
I dont tell anyone this, but I just blast it a few times with the gun when I tighten it back down, works like a charm.
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Could be my gun I guess, but it's amazing how tight that bolt gets. I guess given the spin direction of the crank, they're torquing more and more as time goes by and I'm therefore not too concerned about getting the bolt to full spec when tightening. I think I put mine on with the impact driver last time too.
Didn't work for me either using Ingersoll Rand IR 550 air impact wrench. I beat on it till the 6 point impact socket split in half. The bump method took 3 or 4 tries until that worked also.
Skip the tool rental and getter done with a starter bump.
Hint good leverage will be applied by keeping the breaker bar parallel to the earth. It will lift the nose of the car! Think jack stands, wood blocks. ect Just be careful as the breaker bar can fly out a small amount!
And for gods sake man, DON'T USE A TORQUE WRENCH TO DO IT!!!!! << Hint video above has $300+ dollar clicker torque wrench being abused :thumbsdow :disappoin :thumbsdow :facepalm:
They have loctite on them from the factory. . . . So unless you spin the wooddriff key out, direction should have no impact.
Look at the threads. . . . Its the GREEN STUFF!
FWIW:
The wood-drift key is for alignment and offers little actual holding power against rotational forces. The damper is relying on the bolts clamping ability to secure the it and the timing belt drive gear in place. If left loose, in time it can shear the key off the crank. Its less likely at lower engine output levels like these but goes up exponentially {no quote on that :lol:} with engine HP/Acceleration.
:chug:yeah well tourqe wrench was a waste of time and money. I went ahead and dropped my nuts and I put the 19mm on the breaker bar, used the jack stand, bumped the starter one tiny, single, little time. And that stuff worked like a charm. Thats the only way I'll ever do it again and the only way I'll recommend again. Thanx to all who helped. I'll be back for more help when I am putting everything back together. Gonna be a week or two though cuz these online morons sent me the wrong dam head gasket set. So, now I gotta send it the hell back and wait for the correct one so I can put that sucker on then try to put everything back together. Also replacing the water pump, timing belt and pulleys, and a new radiator that had a crack in it bigger than the mississippi river. And then of course the five dam door handles that are broken. Is there anyone who hasn't had door handles break on their 97ish Camry ??? Pain in the ass tryin to open the doors with two babies in my arms. Ooh Wee Man !!! !!!:smokin:
There's two ways. One is to just tighten it up with an impact wrench and let normal driving tighten it up further.
The second way is to make a Club. DZ63's is the best and you can see it in this thread:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=264425
And here's a a pic of just the Club:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2465705&postcount=10
Here's one that I made out of parts from the plumbing department at Home Depot:
http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy154/akalian_01/club_final_rev.jpg
Just be aware that the bolt hole spacing is different on the 4-cyl and the 6-cyl, so take that into consideration if you decide to make a Club.
Other TN members have made different versions of the Club. Search and ye shall find.
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