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So! I have a base model 1992 Camry 2.2L A/T and it has a problem... It starts fine, but after running for a little while (not sure how long; never timed it) I'll turn the engine off, and it won't start back up. I can wait a little while and it starts up fine again... but not always. It had this issue before and I thought it was because of the crappy ignition that had been put in, but I have replaced it with an even crappier one, yet I don't know if thats really the problem. One funny thing about this is when I go to start it back up, and it fails, I don't hear a click or anything. It's like the starter isn't getting any power. All the accesories work and everything. I've tried beating on the steering wheel and moving the A/T Shifter back and forth a bunch, because some people said it might work, but it doesnt. It's just deciding not to show me any signs of the problem..:headbang: I tried to figure it out today, and when it decided not to start, I put the E-Brake down and it started right up... I have no clue if thats related. Another problem I noticed today is that after getting it to start up finally, I was reving it up a little bit and it started to cut out at 4 1/2 Thousand RPM. After this initial cut, I held my pedal steadily at about 3 on the guage. I then watched it jump, and cut, and jump and cut out sporadically. It had this issue before, so i removed the air box and found a mouse house of insulation, so I replaced it with intercooler piping and a specter air filter... Ohh and my oil light is on even though its at normal levels. Just Puttin' that out there. WHAT CAN ALL OF THIS BE FROM?!?! Please Help If You Can.
 

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One funny thing about this is when I go to start it back up, and it fails, I don't hear a click or anything. It's like the starter isn't getting any power. All the accesories work and everything.
The starter gets juice from the battery if the ignition switch is good. Next time it won't start - turn on the headlights and try to start the car and watch to see if the headlights go way dim. If so I'd say check the battery, battery terminals and alt, if not I suspect the starter or ignition switch. How many miles on the car ? Did you mean you changed the ignition switch ? Have you ever changed the distributor - EGR valve or plug wires ? Is the check engine light on. You may have multiple problems.
 

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I've done that, no dimming at all. And yes, I meant ignition switch. and I'm pretty positive my alt. is good. I run my car for about an hour everyday and the battery still reads about 12.37 volts on my DVOM
 

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I've done that, no dimming at all. And yes, I meant ignition switch. and I'm pretty positive my alt. is good. I run my car for about an hour everyday and the battery still reads about 12.37 volts on my DVOM
How many miles on the car ? Have you ever changed the distributor - EGR valve or plug wires ? Is the check engine light on? What happens if you tap the starter with a hammer a few times and try to start it again ?
 

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So the batt voltage checks at 12.37 when it won't crank the engine over?... sounds like the batt's OK.

My first guess would be the starter solenoid is going bad. But usually you hear it click when the key's turned.

Second guess is the neutral safety switch is going bad. There's a thread in the stickied threads on it.

Here's one thread that covers general no-start issues.

And here's the thread on the neutral safety switch.

Both courtesy Mr. Perkins.
 

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185,650 and I've never swapped anything like that. And I've never tried to tap it, but I will. I went out and started it and ran it for a while about a half hour ago. I let it warm up and reved it up and all in all let it do its thing for an hour or so and it didn't have any of these problems. But like 4 hours ago it had all of them. I'm really stumped
 

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My first guess would be the starter solenoid is going bad. But usually you hear it click when the key's turned.

Second guess is the neutral safety switch is going bad. There's a thread in the stickied threads on it.



No Clicks, and I don't think it's the neutral safety because I'll leave it in park when all of this is going on. and I've tested that idea by putting it in neutral and trying to start it, and alternating between park and neutral. Wouldn't that disprove that? Or could that still be a factor?
 

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RX-7 Restorations
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check the coil and the igniter. both can exhibit signs of failure with hot start issues. also as stated, check the neutral safety switch. will the engine crank when you put the gear selector in neutral?
 

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check the coil and the igniter. both can exhibit signs of failure with hot start issues. also as stated, check the neutral safety switch. will the engine crank when you put the gear selector in neutral?
when i have this problem it doesn't start in neutral. i can switch between park and neutral as much as i want and it still won't start.
 

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Turbo Snail
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oil light is on because either your Low Pressure switch is unplugged or wiring is bad... or your car is reading below 4PSI of oil pressure (thats why the light is normally on, indicating low oil pressure). If the plug is fine, and the wiring is fine, it means that either your oil pump isnt pumping, main/rod bearings have too much clearance, or you have a bunch of stuck carbon stuck in the main oil feed ports.

As far as the RPM issue, I would look into cleaning the Throttle body and emissions parts out (Throttle body, IACV, EGR).

As far as the no start issue, it sounds to me like your Neutral Safety switch isnt making contact. I wrote a DIY on how to remove and clean the NSS. This solves the issue most of the time. It could also be the Starter Solenoids aren't making contact on the bridge of the starter where the wire runs over to the plunger. There are write
ups on how to check/repair those as well.


Refer to the DIY Articles that are written at :
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220549
 

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Is there a relay that could be causing this?

I had a different but similar problem the other day for the first time. I turned the car off with the parking lights on, then noticed the lights and turned them off. I sat for about 10 minutes, and the car wouldn't start. All dash lights on etc., and no drainage when turning over, but no solenoid click. Never had anything like this since I've been driving the car (about 6 months.)

I turned the lights back on and tried to start, and it started like it never missed a beat. The source of the problem is probably different than the OP's, but made me think mine could be a relay issue, and perhaps so could the OP's issue.

For me, that happened only once, everything normal since.
 

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**PROGRESS REPORT**
I had 100% doubted that it was the NSS. I had moved my gear lever back and forth about one million times with no progress. BUT--- I had my Automotive teacher take a look at it, and he suggested i slowly move the shifter into drive from neutral while holding the key turned... so i guess its time to clean the NSS. That still leaves the oil light though. If it is carbon clogging my lines, how would I verify that, or fix it.
 

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sounds like the ignition coil is going bad if it starts and wont start after its hot check under the cap. seen this problem on the 5sfe
 

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my car has had trouble with the nss for awhile. mostly the revers light not coming on and stuff. when i first got it it had trouble even starting because of it. seems like it has got better and reverse always seems to work now and about never have trouble starting. there is a time every so often (at least months i guess) where it don't start and have to tap the gear shift to get it to though but not a big deal.
 

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Honestly, just because the battery registers at over 12 volts that does not mean it can hold that charge long enough to start the car. I would get it tested at a car auto place like AutoZone, ect.
My battery is currently on its last legs, it registers 14.03 volts yet tests bad using a car battery tester...
(basically, if I leave the radio on for more than 2 minutes, the car won't have enough power to start.)
 
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