[sbrennan]

I did the dtl mod. went through it ok it seemed but upon reassembly truck wont start. here are the symptoms

1. with key in ignition and door open, bell dings and red security light stops flashing
2. dome light bright
3. when key is twisted, nothing happens. neither ACC nor start does anything. dead. no noise or actuation at all
4. check the fuses for ign, there seems to be 3 under the dash and all look ok, will check with multimeter now.


To better explain, it like what I've seen when an automatic is in gear (not Park) when just nothing happens. In my case the truck is in park of course, I'm saying that cause that's just what the symptms appear like.

I'm disconnecting the batt now to see if something needs to be reset. Of note is in order to get to the mod, I needed to unplug several cables in the fuse box. Could something like a security chip of similar need to be re-learned?

btw, I did do a search but I'll admit I prob could have done a more complete one. If someone does finds something cut me a break, a truck that doesn't start has me a bit un nerved.

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[TacoDude]

Check that you are getting voltage with the meter.
Check the fuses in the engine compartment as well.

Did you do the DRL mod using the toyota relay? Make sure the other relays are still fully engaged.

 

[SMEbay]

I haven't done this mod myself, so I'm not familiar with it. I believe there are a couple ways to do it though.

First, and you probably already know this... retrace your steps, all of them. Stands to reason that this is either a blown fuse or something you did directly.

Maybe if you posted some info on the steps you took to do the mod, someone can chime in.

Good luck

 

[sbrennan]

here is some mor info for all. thanks again for the help.

I did use the toyota relay. I also re-did the mod back to origional with same results so its not the mod that is still causing it (although I suppose it could have been the cause).

I get hazards to work and the door locks work with switch and remote. On that fuse I get 12v, and the one next to it (Power to bed outlet?) but all other fuses do NOt show 12v when I test them with a meter and touch the top of the little pin on the fuse. So, nothing else seems to have 12 v on it but there is 12 v to somewhere on the fuse block.

 

[toku58]

Check you fuse block in the engine comp. on the drivers side fender.
Are you sure no other wire or plugs may have been loosened during your install? This should have been a simple "Plug-N-Play" Deal

 

[Pb]

Probably a blown fuse. Check all the fuses with a meter. Sometimes a fuse can look OK, but actually be blown up against the side terminal of the fuse. If you have a Fluke set it to Continuity and touch both of the metal spots on top of the fuse. This way you can check a fuse without pulling it out of the fuse block. If the meter beeps then the fuse is OK. If it doesn't beep then you've found your blown fuse.

 

[borderbrat]

here is some mor info for all. thanks again for the help.

I did use the toyota relay. I also re-did the mod back to origional with same results so its not the mod that is still causing it (although I suppose it could have been the cause).

I get hazards to work and the door locks work with switch and remote. On that fuse I get 12v, and the one next to it (Power to bed outlet?) but all other fuses do NOt show 12v when I test them with a meter and touch the top of the little pin on the fuse. So, nothing else seems to have 12 v on it but there is 12 v to somewhere on the fuse block.

you shouldn't get a voltage drop across fuses. with a vehicle its easier to pull them out and do a continuity check.

 

[the.phantom]

you shouldn't get a voltage drop across fuses. with a vehicle its easier to pull them out and do a continuity check.

+1

and make sure you are on a low scale when you do in a perfect world it would read 0
but could be + or - 1 or 2 ohms

 

[sbrennan]

thanks to all. I'll resume checking in the morning and post the results. Can anyone tell me any of the fuses under the ood that supply the fuse block? Just so I've got a spot to start.

 

[toku58]

Can you read prints? I'll PM you!

 

[K2DAMFJ]

There is no single fuse that can blow and give you those results. My guess is that you have either an unplugged or loose plug on your fuse panel. If your ignition switch is not doing anything at all, then you prolly have the harness for the switch itself unplugged. Check every plug in every area you worked in.

 

[buzz5]

There is no single fuse that can blow and give you those results. My guess is that you have either an unplugged or loose plug on your fuse panel. If your ignition switch is not doing anything at all, then you prolly have the harness for the switch itself unplugged. Check every plug in every area you worked in.

^
I agree;I just did this mod the other day and I had to unplug damn near every plug just to get the box out far enough to remove the relay and blank.After mounting the module on the side of the box it was almost impossible to get the whole assembly back in there.I finally got it and when I was bolting back up I drove my neighbors crazy with my alarm going off.

 

[TacoDude]

here is some mor info for all. thanks again for the help.

I did use the toyota relay. I also re-did the mod back to origional with same results so its not the mod that is still causing it (although I suppose it could have been the cause).

I get hazards to work and the door locks work with switch and remote. On that fuse I get 12v, and the one next to it (Power to bed outlet?) but all other fuses do NOt show 12v when I test them with a meter and touch the top of the little pin on the fuse. So, nothing else seems to have 12 v on it but there is 12 v to somewhere on the fuse block.

The 12V you measure now is probably the non-switched, meaning the constant 12V source. Do you have radio power when switch is in ACC?

Check the underhood fuse block:
ALT 140A(towing pkg)/120A; this feeds to AM1
AM1 50A (This & ALT should be OK if you have power with key in ACC); this feeds STA 7.5A which activates the starter relay
AM2 30A; this fuse provides 12V to your starter.

Check underdash fuse block:
STA 7.5A

 

[Larzzzz]

when checking for a blown fuse, it's easier to set your meter to volts and with things turned on put your meter accross the fuse. 0 volts indicate a good fuse, 12 volts indicates the blown fuse. Good luck

 

[TACOMA915]

when checking for a blown fuse, it's easier to set your meter to volts and with things turned on put your meter accross the fuse. 0 volts indicate a good fuse, 12 volts indicates the blown fuse.

Shouldnt 12 volts be good and 0 be bad???

 

[Larzzzz]

Shouldnt 12 volts be good and 0 be bad???

Seems like it should, but no. When you put your meter accross a good fuse you are creating a paralell circuit. The total resistance of a paralell circuit is always less than the smallest resistor. So, if you have a good fuse, "0 ohms" and you put your meter, with 10,000,000 ohms resistance, set to volts DC, accross that fuse all the current is going to flow through the fuse, not the meter. Now with the bad fuse, open circuit, infinite ohms, the only way for current to flow is through the meter, but its resistance is so high that a lot of current can't flow through it.

One caveat, if the load is turned off, then you'll get 0 volts no matter what.
The load is the return path to the battery and needs to be turned on.

 

[sbrennan]

update

The 12V you measure now is probably the non-switched, meaning the constant 12V source. Do you have radio power when switch is in ACC?

Check the underhood fuse block:
ALT 140A(towing pkg)/120A; this feeds to AM1
AM1 50A (This & ALT should be OK if you have power with key in ACC); this feeds STA 7.5A which activates the starter relay
AM2 30A; this fuse provides 12V to your starter.

Check underdash fuse block:
STA 7.5A

checked all fuses uner the dask and under the hood. i get good continuity through them all. i pulled the pink 30a and checked alt 140 in place and it showed 12v. I know there can be several route for 12 v t get some where but I do get 12v on the door locks and they work. Just to recap and answer some questions.

1. when I put in the key, the red security light does go off. does anyone know if that would be true even if the chip in the key wasn't being recognized? in other words, it goes off just by the presence of a key. wondering if there could be something wrong with that system

2. dome light works, and actually goes out depending on which connector I remove from the fuse block

3. I did NOT remove the rear fuse block connector that has the yellow hood over it. I assumed this was the air bag and have always been careful around that. I didnt re-set it but i did push it down a bit and it seats firm.

4. wen I turn the key to either acc or of course start I get nothing. it does ding with the key in the slot (door open) but nothing else. no click, no dash odo, no radio, no lighter plug, nothing.

5. I do have 3 wires that Im pretty sure are for the dash harness. one goes to the mirrors I know, the other two are in the same harness, one is sort of blue and the other is a little bigger with red tape at the end of it. again i assume this is for accessories i dont have, except the mirrors of course. if anyone know for sure that might help.

6. with the key on, i don't get 12 v to any of the ignition lables (3) fuses under the dash.

Thanks to all following thie thread. If I have to get this towed I can only imagine what BS story I'll have to contrive to get this covered under warranty.

 

[sbrennan]

Can you read prints? I'll PM you!

I see your PM. Yes I can read schemos. Goinng to look now.

To all:
to think outside of the box, any other thing that comes off the top of your head that could have gotten fried or otherwise? That's way I was asking about the key/security light flashy thing. if the red light goes out does that mean the security logic has said this key is AOK?

 

[DaleD]

that could have gotten fried or otherwise?

I don't see how anything could fried doing this mod unless you throw a glass of water on their.
My vote is triple check all the harnesses on the back and the relay.
And make sure there plugged in all the way.

 

[jimmytaco]

I don't see how anything could fried doing this mod unless you throw a glass of water on their.
My vote is triple check all the harnesses on the back and the relay.
And make sure there plugged in all the way.

+ 1 I agree with that, when i did the mod i found it to be hard to pull the fuse panel down so I removed so plugs. My question is did you remove them or did you pull on the panel to get the parts in/out. If so you may have inadvertently strip one/two of the wires making the system short when you try to start her.

I know this sounds bad but hear it out, If anyone knows how to hotwire a 05+ tacoma this would probably solve the guys problem as it would more than likely be the same wires/fuse/relay that was damaged.