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Discussion Starter #1
I'm no mechanic, but this friend of mine use to be a mechanic before he went into IT.

He first treats his 2000 corolla with Marvel Mystery Oil from Kragen. 1 quart added to his engine oil cheap 20-50. After 500 miles, he changes oil and filter, and he repeats to a used car about 3 times. Supposedly the Marvel Myster Oil removes sledges and gunk.

When the engine is all clean, he adds 1 quart of slick 50 and 3 quarts of synthetic 20-50. He uses the Kragen Fram Tough Guard filter. He claims:

a) he never changed his oil about 50,000 to 60,000 miles nor does he change the filter.

b) he said the color of his oil is golden yellow.

Can someone think about this? I change my oil every 3000 miles. Question I have is: will the filter hold up?

He said his corolla now has over 300,000 miles! In addition, he never changes his transmission oil. He only adds to it. He said there's no reason people need to change transmission oil as the oil is only a "hydrolic system." He says there's just a different school of thought.

I know this may sound ridiculous, but give it some thought first. :headbang:

Thanks.
 

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Lets Do It!
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I call BS, no way is it golden yellow still. Thick black tar is more like it.
 

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Like i said in the other thread. BS. and golden yellow...no way. check the oil yourself its its golden yellow then he changes it all the time. and if thats the case knock him out for trying to trick you into tearing up your car with this stupid oil idea.

if your interested in long oil intervals use amsoil and filter. oil last 12,500 miles and filter 25,000 miles. thats the best your going to get but its not cheap. its cheaper in the long run but at that oil and filter change its expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i am taking a neutral position..though i don't think i'm goign to do what he recommends to my car. i am always open minded. i've done some research and they say the slick50 treated cars (go oil empty) can go 50 laps without engine seize while an untreated engine (empty) goes 1 lap and seize. I also read about the telfon build up.. but maybe because he doesn't keep replacing it and that's what makes the difference, but remember, he did mention he use marval mystery oil first to clean off all gunk. if u guys google marval mystery oil, u'll see mention of it keeping oil very clean. I'm just wondering if it's because the slick 50 and the synthetic that's super slippery that's making his car go so long. I don't think he's lying to me as we're close, but I am very hesitant to try it on my car. yes, and i know it sounds like quack.

does anyone know what causes the black stuff that builds up in the engine? is it the combustion of the gasoline or is it the wear and tear? If it's due to wear and tear, maybe his mixture minimizes wear and because he infrequently changes his oil, there's limited teflon build up.
 

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Raging Raven
05 Dodge Neon SRT-4
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if this is even possible, im sure someone would have put it in a bottle and be making billions on it by now.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well, he advised me to pour marvel mystery oil into the engine to get rid of the sludge and stuff.. would you do it with new oil and filter or a complete waste of money? Let's assume the engine was not taken care of. I was thinking of doing frequent 3000 miles standard 5-30 oil and oem filter change instead of using the marvel mystery oil. i am under the impression that maybe the marvel mystery oil would thin out my oil.
 

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in a word, Bull****

trying to apply logic to this senario as you requested here goes:

i understand why he would use a very light oil (Marvel Mystery Oil) to attempt to clean the engine of sludge, this principle is the same if you have ever heard of people using ATF as an engine cleaner between while changing the oil. that part is sound as it cleans well as ATF and others usually have a higher detergent content that motor oil as these fluids typically spend more time in the vehicle than motor oil does, hence why they clean better. problem that arises is that you cannot get ALL the other fluid out before you refill with Motor Oil and you do not want these two chemistries mixing in your engine; bad things happen to the machined metal surfaces in engines when in environments that are too acidic or basic. especially when this environment exisis for many thousands of miles.

Next, Slick 50 has been fined for fraudulent advertising by the FTC...
if magic came in a bottle, or if slick 50 or any other oil additive offered benefits that outweighed the risks or additional expense, Toyota would have concocted thier own "genuine toyota oil," added this lubricant to it and charged us out the wazoo for it. but alas there's a reason why every manufacturer specifically discourages the use of oil additives.

he is lying, plain and simple about the color of the oil, at 50k still being "golden yellow."
what makes oil change color as time and mileage progress is the combustion byproducts created by burning gasoilne. and the only way you'd have no byproducts of combustion was if you had COMPLETE combustion of whatever you were burning, mind you it IS possible to have complete combustion; just not at temperatures and pressures that are achieved in an internal cumbustion engine.

i would never trust ANY fram filter on my engine. fram filters use paper elements, which if allowed to sit long enough on an engine will break down and you then run the possibility of having these tiny pieces of paper breaking lose and "lubricating" your engine. on another note, the Fram toughgard probably has a bypass valve on it, and once the flow through the filter is significantly enough restricted, oil flow will be "bypassed." meaning the oil will not be filtered, it will simply be recirculated through the engine...

also he is using a 20w-50 oil which like all other oils will only thicken as time and mileage progress, all the more reason why the filter will be bypassed.

as for the transmission, yes it is a Hydraulic system, but it's not enitrely a hydraulic system. the hydraulics are used actuate friction clutches and this is where it differs from a simple hydraulic system. as with any clutch, tiny amounts of this friction material are rubbed off as the clutches are applied and released. if you have ever dropped the pan on your tranny and cleaned the magnets that reside in the bottom of the pan, you will see this sheared friction material and this is why tranny fluid needs changing. left in place long enough this material will clog the fluid passages in the transmission and you will develop slippling and other issues.

also, since the tranny is sealed, one should not need to be adding fluid, unless there is a leak...
if you're routinely adding ATF, sumthins wrong.

the only exception are Continuously variable transmissions (CVT's) where there are no clutches. and no corolla ever made has had one of those. at present, only Toyota hydrids use these.

my personal recommendations are to change your oil every 10k with a full synthetic 0w-30 or 5w-30, and change your filter at 5k intervals, i like Purolator or Pure1 oil filters because they are well made with a cotton media. as for the tranny, drain and fills every 30k. if the vehicle has a metal mesh tranny filter clean and resuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
crap.. help!!! I didn't add any slick50, and don't plan to, however, i took that guys advice and added the Marvel Mystery Oil after I changed my engine and tranny oil last night w/o reading this post then drove to work. (i work grave). well, this morning, at 40+ mph, my car started to get weak and started to stutter and have misfires. i pulled the codes..

please help and advise:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295719


should i drain all the new oils? crap.. i can't believe it. if you read the above link, there's a link in there where someone used sea foam, and he had some misfires afterwards too..not sure if it's a coincident, but can you guys check out the links on my link above? i'm researching this the best i can, cuz

a) i don't want to buy new spark plugs and only to learn that it gets fouled up again..and

b) if i buy a wireset, i dont' want any chance of breaking it if i have to remove it again..

Thanks. I think the guy was so full of it.
 

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uʍop-ǝpısdn
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crap.. help!!! I didn't add any slick50, and don't plan to, however, i took that guys advice and added the Marvel Mystery Oil after I changed my engine and tranny oil last night w/o reading this post then drove to work. (i work grave). well, this morning, at 40+ mph, my car started to get weak and started to stutter and have misfires. i pulled the codes..

please help and advise:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295719


should i drain all the new oils? crap.. i can't believe it. if you read the above link, there's a link in there where someone used sea foam, and he had some misfires afterwards too..not sure if it's a coincident, but can you guys check out the links on my link above? i'm researching this the best i can, cuz

a) i don't want to buy new spark plugs and only to learn that it gets fouled up again..and

b) if i buy a wireset, i dont' want any chance of breaking it if i have to remove it again..

Thanks. I think the guy was so full of it.
Drain all the mixtures out and refill with conventional oils and see if it gets any better. You might need to flush the systems out completely.
 

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Your case was you didn't have to touch it because it was worthless mesh that did nothing.
My original comment was that it would last the life of the car. And it does. Your comments were only costing people un-necessary money.

btw, I was right about the engine oil filter as well. I said you could change the filter without changing the oil and you can. The amount of oil in the filter is less than a cup. Which would not make a significant change in the oil level. Beside if you were such a "car mechanic" as you say, then you know that when you put a new filter on, you normally fill it with oil before you install.

I have over 35 years of experience and know exactly what works and doesn't. Go attack someone else.
 
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