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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I am rather new at this so bear with me any help that could be provided or insight would be helpful.


I am working on a 22 RE motor for my 90 Toyota pickup truck. The problem I am having is I am trying to take off the 19 mm bolt on the outside of the crankshaft pulley.

I have taken the head off and with the head came the camshaft and the gear that goes over the camshaft that works with the distributor. I still have the chain hanging there and the chain dampers/tentioner and timing cover still on… of course cause I cant get off that damn tight bolt off.. I also have the oil pan off and the oil pick up tube removed.

So on the crankshaft it is my understanding that you can put a block of wood between the crankshaft and the side of the engine block (on the inside to stop the crank from turning)..I have the engine on an engine stand upside down now..

So right up front I tried to wedge in a hammer handle and rag around the hammer handle to make it as easy on the metal as I could.. However it just slipped. So once it slipped I tried to tie rope around the top of the crankshaft to the motor mount. I tied the rope just before the first piston. Where the crankshaft has a ?large lobe? Because it looked safe. However the rope just broke..

So my question is what do I do now? I have a ½ drive 6 point socket and I cant keep the crankshaft from moving so I can appeal the force I need to remove it.

And if I could of possibly caused any damn to the crankshaft by wedging in the hammer handle? Like could the crankshaft be pushed to far to the side? And maybe bend it or something stupid like that? I am new so bear with me…

Anyways I hope I made this clear enough for someone to read.. If you would like to help and have NO clue what I am talking about I can take pictures to send..
 

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I went through almost the same thing except I did it with the head still on the motor. Are you replacing the timing chain? If so, you might try putting the head back on temporarily and put the timing chain back on. Then stick a large screwdirver or pry bar through the camshaft gear. Place a piece of wood between the bar and the head so you don't damage the head. Then use a nice long breaker bar and break it loose. That worked well for me but it also broke ruined the timing chain at the same time.

You might also try a strap wrench around the crank pully.

If you do the wooden wedge method, you have to make sure you sort of drive the wedge in and do it in the direction where the pully will turn into it making it tighter as you loosen the bolt. You might also try to cut a block of wood that will fit between the bottom of the wedge and the floor to help keep it from slipping out. That might also help prevent damaging the timing cover.

One more option is borrowing/renting/buying a heavy duty impact gun that has more oomph (that's technical jargon for "wicked big") than a standard one.

Good luck!
 

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YOTA Master
'93 2wd P/U
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Prodcedure for in truck is to dissconnect the coil, put on 19mm 1/2" with breaker bar and place breaker bar to the driver side of the truck, and just BARELY tap the ignition as if starting the truck, but very quick as to only break the nut loose. Correct?

I just want to know for future refference. :)
 

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CarbonRevo said:
Prodcedure for in truck is to dissconnect the coil, put on 19mm 1/2" with breaker bar and place breaker bar to the driver side of the truck, and just BARELY tap the ignition as if starting the truck, but very quick as to only break the nut loose. Correct?

I just want to know for future refference. :)
Yep, but unfortunately he's past the point of being able to bump the starter. :eek:
 

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YOTA Master
'93 2wd P/U
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I don't do that any more.....

CarbonRevo said:
Prodcedure for in truck is to dissconnect the coil, put on 19mm 1/2" with breaker bar and place breaker bar to the driver side of the truck, and just BARELY tap the ignition as if starting the truck, but very quick as to only break the nut loose. Correct?
This method is pretty reliable,

but be prepared to accept bad consequences in the rare instance when they happen.

Using the starter, which has a lot more power that your tools were designed to handle, can result in a catastophic failure leading to damage to the tools, your vehicle and possibly even you. I used to work with a mechanic who had a rather sizable scar on the side of his face (right next to his eye) caused by an injury recieved when his breaker bar broke while he was watching as someone else cranked the key for him.
 

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Try an air impact wrench if you have one. If the pulley has holes for a puller, install some bolts and then use a bar to secure the pulley. If the bar interferes with the wrench, off set it by adding some washers to the bolts.
 

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I put my jack handle on the end of the breaker bar for leverage. if you have a piece of tube metal or a nice floor jack, maybe you can do the same. I tried an impact and that didnt work for mine but good old elbow grease did. Good luck and maybe before you start again you can spray some penetrating oil in there and let it sit overnight or something.
 

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Truck in 4th gear in regular high range on the transfer case, ebrake pulled, wheels chocked, get your wrench on there and put a 2-3' breaker bar or pipe on the wrench and just pull until it breaks. You just about have to lift the truck off the ground to break it, but it will break.

If you have a good clutch this will work. I never trusted the starter method but hundreds of people have done it with sucess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well thanks for the help.. I did try to use a 1/2 air impact wrench and had little to no luck with it.. The problem is I am trying to be cheap bout this and doing want to spend 20$ on a tool i may never use again... but thus far this has caused me over 2 hours of fustration so I feel it maybe time to just break down and get the right tools for the job...

I also read the starter method many times.. however it was after the fact when i did some serious research..

I think i am just gonna find me a good block and wedge it between the first crankshaft weight and the inside of the block and give it hell till something breaks.. It was almost my arm last time.. Its still sore from all the pulling I did...

Well thanks for the replies and help.. This is truely a good group of seemly knowledgeable friendly ppl.. And in turn once i get edumacated on this stuff i will pass the experience on..

Thus far I can tell you DONT WORK on your own truck if at all possible.. just hire it out.. but damn 60$ and hour shop rate?!?!?! i mean thats more then 6 times what i make.. how do they expect ppl to be able to pay for that?!?!? ANd the ppl that dont have money have all the getto breaking down shit in the first place funny cycle..... but at least i dont notice the outragous gas prices cause i dont leave the house much :p
 

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YOTA Master
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I don't know about the setup you used, but a professional grade impact wrench on shop air will develop 4 times or more torque than most homeowner setups.
 

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1992 Toyota Pick Up
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I guess if you had a torch, maybe heat the bolt up SOME.

I have a mechanic a short drive from me that does my major work at 20 an hour. He's not certified or have a huge honkin shop, but he probably knows more then half the people working AT toyota or any other car company. He's old and retired and just uses the money for the casino. I had 24 hours worth of work done to my truck, with a head gasket, timing chain, clutch, new tranny, pan gasket, valve gasket and some other miscellaneous things all for a tick above 800 bucks. Best deal I've had so far with my truck!

(thats 800 including parts AND his 480 dollars worth of labor. Roughly 3 grand at a 'real' shop!)
 

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Vicoor said:
I don't know about the setup you used, but a professional grade impact wrench on shop air will develop 4 times or more torque than most homeowner setups.
That's what I meant by "wicked big". :lol: My buddy is a deisel mechanic and he has a HUGE one. It seems like it weighs 20 lbs but if it can't get something off you probably have to cut it. It will run on my compressor which is a 60 gal. no problem.

It was unavailable when I did my motor though. That's why I had to resort to knives and bearskins.

Heating it may help. I think there is a thread locker on there which makes it even harder to remove. The heat may help break that. I wouldn't get to carried away with the heat wrench though.
 

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ovrrdrive said:
Truck in 4th gear in regular high range on the transfer case, ebrake pulled, wheels chocked, get your wrench on there and put a 2-3' breaker bar or pipe on the wrench and just pull until it breaks. You just about have to lift the truck off the ground to break it, but it will break.

If you have a good clutch this will work. I never trusted the starter method but hundreds of people have done it with sucess.
you should be able to buy some metal tubing at your local hardware store. as mentioned 2-3 feet breaker bar but the longer you get the more leverage you have. Use the tubing as an extension for your breaker bar. I struggled with mine for about 6 HOURS before I got smart and did this and it came loose in a jiffy. I will never go back to the starter method or trying to manuever an impact in a small space again....(hopefully)
 

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pickuptruckguy said:
you should be able to buy some metal tubing at your local hardware store. as mentioned 2-3 feet breaker bar but the longer you get the more leverage you have. Use the tubing as an extension for your breaker bar. I struggled with mine for about 6 HOURS before I got smart and did this and it came loose in a jiffy. I will never go back to the starter method or trying to manuever an impact in a small space again....(hopefully)
I think his is already out of the truck though so the motor is spinning when he tries to loosen it. Otherwise I would agree. I don't like the starter method either. However, it seems there are as many people that swear by it as there are people who won't do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well good news... its out.. i finally inlisted some help of a friend of mine and brought over his 4 foot long extention pipe and sure enought out it came.. I thought for sure it snapped off inside the crank at first the way it popped.. but it came off finally... with no major issues that i know of yet.. but even with that it took me almost standing on the 4 foot long breaker bar to get the thing off.. gez i dont think anyone could of gotten it off any different...

thus far 1 for me 0 for the truck :) right on.. thanks guys..

The block that i balanced on the blancer of the crank didnt seem to hurt it any.. so i think i am good..
 

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It's scary when the "pop" like that....

In a satisfying sort of way:whatwhat:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Indeed it is.. but man when nothing is broken its pop sooo good when you have been working on it for a few hours.. then get the right tools and moments later all the pain sweat and almost tears in my case come to an end.. then u realize you have half a million other small problems..
 
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