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Hello, I recently acquired a 94 Camry. The front right wheel had a little negative camber when I purchased it but it has gotten worse and can't be driven now. As you can see in the picture, the tire is rubbing against the strut. How can I fix?
Thanks ahead of time for any help.
20200205_143956.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the fast replies!
Here are some more pictures. Can you tell any more from these?
One of those strut bolts was the wrong size when I got it so I went and got one from the junkyard but it didn't fix it.
20200205_141702.jpg
20200205_141606.jpg
20200205_141533.jpg
 

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Only thing I can see other than the bolts you removed (?) is the axle. Does the wheel still sit on the strut while it is up in the air? Grab the left and right and try to shake it, this is checking for tie rods. Does it move? Grab top and bottom and try to shake it, this is checking for ball joint. Does it move? Youtube tie rod and ball joint checking to see what I mean. Otherwise take it to a shop.
 

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1. outer CV joint is busted.
2. mounting hole on strut is oval, not round. the upper one. And that is the one responsible for camber.
You either need new strut, assuming, upper strut mounting plate is not loose or entire attachment there bent/dislodged and camber bolt, to fix camber.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Only thing I can see other than the bolts you removed (?) is the axle. Does the wheel still sit on the strut while it is up in the air? Grab the left and right and try to shake it, this is checking for tie rods. Does it move? Grab top and bottom and try to shake it, this is checking for ball joint. Does it move? Youtube tie rod and ball joint checking to see what I mean. Otherwise take it to a shop.
Yes, the wheel does contact the strut while the car is in the air. The tie rods and ball joints seem good, and there is no play in them. Thanks for the suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
1. outer CV joint is busted.
2. mounting hole on strut is oval, not round. the upper one. And that is the one responsible for camber.
You either need new strut, assuming, upper strut mounting plate is not loose or entire attachment there bent/dislodged and camber bolt, to fix camber.
The hole does look slightly oval. Do you think that would cause such a negative camber? Check out these from above pictures of strut. There is a clear difference between right and left side.
20200205_155631.jpg
20200205_155210.jpg
20200205_155202.jpg
 

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That last pic sums it up. Replace both those bolts. Unless you took them out for t/sing because yeah that's obviously not right.
 

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Is there a possibility someone put Gen4 strut mounts in there? Gen4 mounts have a diff part, right/left, with the hole for the strut shaft shifted to the outside. Its centered on Gen3 mounts. It’s hard to tell, with the angle of the pics.
 

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The obvious test here is to assemble it loose and try to pull as much positive camber in there as you can before tightening the bolts. If that doesn't work something is bent or the wrong part, oval holes or not. Are the wheels stock?
 

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Is there a possibility someone put Gen4 strut mounts in there? Gen4 mounts have a diff part, right/left, with the hole for the strut shaft shifted to the outside. Its centered on Gen3 mounts. It’s hard to tell, with the angle of the pics.
Which years did the strut design change? I know the earlier 1992-1993 had the strut bearings on the bottom versus on the top. Although from what I understood if someone swapped the entire assembly to the newer style, everything should be lining up OK?

Something doesn't seem right. I doubt the tire size has anything to do with it (195/70R14 or 205/65R15) as there is a huge noticeable angle on that pics. The strut mount /spring plate may had been put on backwards? Or rather 180* off?
 

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Look at the top mount. In fender. Your strut bearing is busted. Strut rod should be in the center of the hole, unless you forcefully moved it.

291990

And yes, it doe snot take much of upper strut mount bolt play to kill camber. I bet safely that, same time, as hole is oval, bolt itself is worn out.
 

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Which years did the strut design change? I know the earlier 1992-1993 had the strut bearings on the bottom versus on the top. Although from what I understood if someone swapped the entire assembly to the newer style, everything should be lining up OK?
Hmmm... yeah, I think you’re correct.

The OP said this was ok at first, with some negative camber. But says this has gotten worse to the point of rubbing. This makes me think it’s not as simple as incorrect parts. I’m wondering if the strut is worn terribly bad where the strut shaft comes out the top of the strut body? So the strut is “leaning” inwards? That would explain why the strut nut on top is tilted outward.

I’d pull that strut completely out and have a look.
 

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Hmmm... yeah, I think you’re correct.

The OP said this was ok at first, with some negative camber. But says this has gotten worse to the point of rubbing. This makes me think it’s not as simple as incorrect parts. I’m wondering if the strut is worn terribly bad where the strut shaft comes out the top of the strut body? So the strut is “leaning” inwards? That would explain why the strut nut on top is tilted outward.

I’d pull that strut completely out and have a look.
Yep, regardless the OP has to get the strut removed and disassembled properly with the correct tools or risk injury/ or death. If a shop has to do this, it might just be cost efficient to replace the entire strut assembly rather than disassembly the strut (which still looks a bit fairly new too). That strut nut shouldn't be looking like that with it on the ground the wheels or even if it is up on jacks. something ain't right.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
thanks for all the responses. I had a mobile mechanic come check it out today. He thought the strut was bent. I’ve put a new one in and still have the excessive negative camber / rubbing issue. The car must’ve been in a small accident and something is bent. It’s not the strut tower or the strut. I’ll keep updating
 

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If it was in an accident, or hit a curb/pothole really hard, it could be the knuckle casting is bent. Although, I don't see how that could be OK at first, and get worse with time, as you've said. Unless the wheel bearing was also damaged badly, and it's slowly eating itself up.

This part on Rockauto includes the casting and the wheel bearing:
 
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