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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1996 Tercel with 149.7k miles. 6 months ago at 147.3k miles, I bought new wheel bearings and races (inners and outers) and installed them with Lucas X-TRA Heavy Duty Grease on a junkyard Tercel with 86.7k miles, left and right rear. Left rear is okay; I repacked the bearings, which don't have any blemishes.

200 miles ago, aclassmate noted both rear wheels were loose, so I tightened them (don't know the torque specs/procedure). No problems, no noise, etc, until this morning.

This morning, I was driving home from errands and suddenly heard "thunk, thunk, thunk" from the right rear. I pulled over and looked casually at all four tires. Nothing unusual. I drove one block, the noise resumed. I pulled over the the center of the right rear wheel is smoking. The outer wheel bearing is missing and the wheel bearing cap is on the street. The wheel is wobbly. I get towed home. When I back the car in the garage to repair it, the wheel came off.

Outer wheel bearing race, hard to photograph, but gouging present that I can feel in 12 O'clock to 3 O'clock positions:
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Another photo of inner wheel bearing race, the shiny areas (only near the center) around the 12 O'clock position are gouging that I can feel
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Inner wheel bearing race with groove marks, maybe gouging at 1 O'clock low position?
286155
The drum fractured, leaving a piece on the spindle. The inner bearing is stuck to the spindle (happened when I repacked the bearings). The center nut is seized on; breaker bar and 3 foot extension only cause rounding off. The wheel bearing grease smells (even 8 hours later) and is almost bead-like instead of jello-like.

The inner race has circular wear marks.

The outer race has gouging.

As soon as wheel removed and before grease removed, outer race in foreground:
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Axle spindle with center axle nut seized; note that inner wheel bear races are without blemishes:
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Looking at inside of brake drum and inner race before removing grease:
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I noticed that there are two sides to the inner seal: on side with a little central rubber and more metal, the other with more rubber.

Is the more rubber surface supposed to face the outside/brake drum, more metal side the body of the car?

What caused this?

I'm going to get a junkyard spindle and reinstall the old drum/hub with new bearings.

What is the proper procedure to tighten the rear center nut?

Which way does the inner seal go?

What is the correct amount of torque on the four 14mm bolts (marked "10" in the center) that hold the axle spindle in place?


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks to both of you!

I don't fully understand. I install the rear axle hube, torque to 22 ft-lbs, rotate the drum, loosen the nut until I can turn the hub by hand?

How can I rotate the drum if I can't turn it by hand?

"Tighten the nut until the preload is within standard. Preload (with turning) Friction force plus."

What does friction force plus 0-2.6 lbf. What does that mean and how do I do that?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think I know the answer. I might not have installed a claw washer, believing that the extra metal on the outer wheel bearing replaced it. There was no claw washer on the damaged axle yesterday.

Do I ALWAYS use a claw washer, even if it looks like the outer bearing has a washer built-in?
 

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You can find many videos on YT. Also the inner bearing shouldn’t be stuck on the spindle.

You’re talking about the washer under the axle nut? Yeah you need that.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks. I can't find any YouTube videos for this Tercel which has a center axle nut; the videos are for Camry/Corollas that don't have center axle nuts.

So, would not having the center claw washer cause the problems I had?
 

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Is your similar to the following? Which look just like the service manual. It’s a dinosaur design often seen on old Detroit products .



Maybe this would help with the preload?
 

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How can I rotate the drum if I can't turn it by hand?
The nut is what the manual is talking about being loose enough to turn by hand. The drum should never be so tight you can't turn it.
I've never tried to measure pre-load as described in the manual, I just do it by feel: First tighten the nut enough to be sure the bearings are seated on the spindle, rotate the drum to be sure everything is seated, then back the nut off until it's hand tight and fine tune it while rotating the drum and feeling for drag and play. There shouldn't be any noticeable play, but a tiny bit too loose is better than too tight. The nut won't be very tight at all when you're finished and you may be able turn the nut by hand at that point. The castellated locking cap and cotter pin will keep the nut from tightening or loosening itself afterwards.
 
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