[JohnGD]

Right, Permatex Water Pump and Thermostat Gasket RTV for cooling system parts. And Permatex Ultra Grey, Ultra Black or Ultra Copper for oil pan and pump housing to block. Walmart usually has the Ultras but may also have the water pump RTV.

Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry. Clean with alcohol so the RTV can stick well. IMO no need for Toyota FIPG, at those prices some may be sitting on the shelf for too long anyway.

If you use an Aisin pump with the metal-rubber gasket, then there's no need for RTV on that part. Oil pump o-ring needs no RTV as well. You're not doing the oil pump housing to block gasket are you? If you're pulling the pump consider changing the pump rotor shaft seal as well. Lube the seal lip with general purpose grease or motor oil so it doesn't run dry on startup and burn up in a hurry.

 

[JohnGD]

There are two different Gates kits. If you're using a Gates Timing Component Kit with Water pump, then the pump gasket and the bypass pipe gasket should get a light coat of (Permatex Water Pump and Thermostat) RTV on both sides. I'd allow the RTV to dry overnight before refilling with coolant if possible.

The Gates kit is a popular item on rockauto based on the heart symbol. You can also buy a Gates kit without the pump and then add an Aisin water pump (with the metal-rubber gasket) at a higher total cost however. That said, I'd be interested to know what you think of the Gates pump, because they're known primarily as a belts and hoses company. The Gates pumps are relatively new, so I tend to recommend the Gates belt kit plus an Aisin pump. I do prefer Gates belts and hoses and Fel-Pro seals otherwise.

I'm not sure how changing one seal affects another. But you should apply a coat of general purpose grease or at least a good coat of motor oil on the rotating surfaces. Or the seals will burn up on startup running dry, causing leaks later.

Here is a sample list of parts to replace in a complete timing belt job:
GATES K030295 Micro-V AT Power Steering Belt $9.76
GATES K050433 Micro-V AT Alt/AC Belt $13.16
FEL-PRO TCS45920 Crankshaft Front Seal Set $4.96 (w/ oil pump o-ring and shaft seal)
FEL-PRO TCS45641 Camshaft Front Seal $3.59
GATES TCK199 (1 Belt, 1 Tensioner, 1 Idler) Timing Belt Component Kit
$53.79
STANT 48278 180° w/Jiggle Pin OE Type Thermostat $10.56
AISIN WPT010 Water pump w/o housing $30.79
FEL-PRO VS50304R1 Valve Cover Gasket Set w/Spark plug tube seals
$18.26
Subtotal about $148
Shipping about $20

 

[JohnGD]

Gates does make its own pumps in recent years and probably rebrand and sell them to others too. I'd like to see their track record as there were a few noise complaints that I saw. Of course for some reason the Aisin pumps on Gen 5+ Camrys were failing very early too, like 25K miles repeatedly for some. While I don't spec Aisin pumps at all (I often source from the local NAPA store and lately Bosch pumps for use with low silicate coolants like G-05), the water pump problems that people are having is the reason I suggest using Aisin, which makes the Toyota pumps for good or bad.

Today's rubber belts will look new for a long time, but they'll wear thinner like tires. But they're easy to replace so no problems with reuse. Thermostat is a preventative maintenance, since you supposed have drained the coolant already. The Stant OE Exact with the jiggle valve I listed is fine. Don't use their cheap, parts store stat however.

Don't replace the assembly lube with a gasket maker. They're two different things. The assembly lube is a grease that prevents the rubber seals from burning up if you start the engine with them dry. The gasket maker or FIPG is like caulking.

Check out the cam and crank pulley holding tools, they'll cost more than $5 to make now: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...e-made-tool-tighten-camshaft-sproket-nut.html

Definitely get a 1/2"-drive torque wrench, about $12 on sale at Harbor Freight. What sizes are your socket sets? I'd recommend a 1/2"-drive metric socket set with a 14" breaker bar ($26 on sale at Harbor Freight, then use 20% off coupon on their email list). http://www.harborfreight.com/16-piece-high-visibility-12-drive-metric-socket-set-67988.html

You can pick up a 18" or 25" 1/2"-drive breaker bar there too. The 18" is more versatile however, but the 25" will give you more leverage. For about $10-12 a piece, you can get both.

Even if 3/8"-drive sockets supposedly work to 80 lb/ft (3/8"-drive torque wrench range), I wouldn't use them to loosen bolts tightened above 50-60 lb/ft. They're more likely to fail and bust your knuckles. And you can browse through HFT's website and compare tool prices against Craftsman, Lowes Kobalt and Home Depot's Husky if you need to add more to your collection. HFT has a mix of grades, but in general has gotten better over the years. I prefer HFT tear-drop ratchets over Crapsman, and I have both.

Ratchet shootout: http://www.sonic.net/~alexz/Ratchet shootout.pdf

One other thing I'd recommend is the Gates Krikit-II belt tension gauge. It's about $14 on Amazon plus shipping (if you don't have Amazon Prime).
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2265&location_id=2742

i got the gates kit that includes the water pump but i'm not actually sure if it's a gates brand water pump.

only items i don't have from your list are the ac belt and ps belt and new thermostat.
i didn't see those necessary as they still look brand new and have no problems with operation

DAYCO SK0001 Timing Seal Kit (Camshaft Seal, Crankshaft Seal, Oil Pump Seal, Oil Pump Gasket, Pre- Assembly Seal Lubricant;which i'll replace with the aisin gasket sealant)
GATES TCKWP199 Timing Belt Component Kit (water pump, tension and idle pulleys, water pump w/o housing)

items i feel i will need before starting the job that i don't have that i have gathered will make job easier from other write ups:
-jack stands
-breaker bar (or long metal pipe to brace socket wrench?)
-bucket to drain coolant into
-19,20,21 mm sockets?
-alligator clips
-distilled water
-better lug wrench than my stock tire kit one
-white marker?
-

I have these things already
-floor jack
-stanley socket set and extensions
-parts listed
-coolant
-

are there any other things you guys suggest i get?
please keep in mind i'm trying to do this as cheap, but as proper as possible.
i have appreciation and determination, but like i've stated i'm doing this while at college on my college budget.

 

[JohnGD]

Both Harbor Freight and Home Depot have these 5/8" sockets cheap.

The harmonic balancer has an outer shell glue to the inner "wheel" with four spokes for later model years. You hold the inner wheel with the holder. If you grab the outer shell with a chain strap wrench then the rubber layer will be torn off.

Also, use a steering wheel puller to pull the balancer off, not a jaw puller. You can find examples in the DIY section. One of the examples there shows what happens if you do with a jaw puller $$$.

Yes, hold the cam sprocket similarly when removing to change out the oil seal. Use a socket and breaker bar on the tightened cam bolt to align the marks.

All i have is a 3/8 set and only up to 17mm so i need those and a 5/8 spark plug socket. also still need a pulley holder.
am i supposed to use the holder on both the harmonic balancer and the camshaft when tighten and loosening?

A good set of tools is always good!

will be driving to my fathers house in waco and we will do the job together as he is a former chevy mechanic and still has all of his tools that we can use. If it is worse than i hope, will be doing it in texarkana and will just have to buy/borrow a break bar and some sockets from the parts store.

Check the examples in the DIY section. Just simply align the marks. You can turn the cam or the crank easily without the plugs. It's a non-interference engine, so no worries unless you have excessive carbon buildup.

haven't made sense of how to reset the timing if i accidentally turn camshaft pulley when removing it, or how to guarantee i do not mess it up.