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Discussion Starter #1
So the Corolla has been making a mild metallic sound with the engine running from the belt area for the past 10-12k miles.
Today I took the belt off and felt the pulleys by hand. The water pump pulley bearing is definitely going out.
The metallic bearing sound hasn’t worsened (at least according to my ears) in the past 12k miles or so. Current mileage is 132k and it’s factory water pump.
So here’s the big question, should I replace it or can I hold off for longer?

If I should replace it, should I do the thermostat too? Anything else that I should do while I’m in there?

I read somewhere that she’ll need a little more than 1 gallon of coolant. Is that correct?
Thanks
 

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1995 T100 2WD
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It's due and Murphy's Law says if you don't change it out it will fail at the worse time. Pump, stat and coolant.
Get the pre mixed Toyota coolant and add as needed. It holds 6.9 qts. when the system ( block, lines and heater are empty).
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Ha! You do make a very good point there.
For the water pump, I was going to get the Gates 41101, Gates tstat 33868s and Gates tstat seal 33661.

Rockauto also lists Gates 33983s for the tstat which just seems to be the same as the 33868s but with the seal included? Both have a jiggle pin

Will the above last another 100k miles or is there a recommendation to get any other brand that’s known to last longer?
 

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I'd spend a couple extra bucks and get the Asin parts since they're a Toyota oem supplier.
Although I'm sure Gates would be fine (long track record). Might want to take a close look at the radiator and hoses while your there. Anymore, unfortunately I think all parts are a coin toss but I'm sure you'll be good for a long time.
I never looked for recommended times, I've always replaced them when ever I was in the area since the parts are reasonable, like when I did my timing belt. Both times the WP and stat were fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Gotcha. The Aisin and Gates are separated only by a couple of bucks. My primary reason for picking Gates was all their parts had limited lifetime warranty. The Aisin components are the usual 12k/12mo. The Gates tstat is actually more expensive than the Aisin one. From reading older threads here, it seems like both brands have had their issues in the past.
If the Aisin parts run great for long periods of time, I’m perfectly happy to switch from Gates.

Good idea on inspecting the radiator and hoses. I just took a quick look and the radiator look fine. No visible cracks and leaks.
The hoses are from the factory and look fine. But they’re only $10 each. So I’ll replace them as part of this work.
 

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I would install cheapest pump, I don't drive cars long. There is no need to replace good original thermostat. If you decide to replace it, I suggest boiling both thermostats to check which one opens more. Some new ones are bad, some don't open enough. Some manufactureres specify opening distance.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I would prefer to not go the cheapest route on the Corolla since I use it the most and I tend to take long distances. The car has been very very reliable until this point and I’m hoping to put another 100k miles over the next 5-6 years before getting rid of it. So I’m hoping to only have to do all of this work once. I’ve had poor luck twice before - GMB and a Duralast one.

Do original thermostats fail prior to 200k miles? I guess, what’s the usual life expectancy of the factory thermostats?

Also, how many seals are there on the thermostat?RA lists o-ring and a gasket?
 

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Go with an Aisin pump; that's a no-brainer.

If the coolant has always been the correct coolant and if tap water has never been introduced into the sysem, then you can leave the original thermostat alone and top off with 50/50 P-HOAT coolant. I have 392K miles on all the original cooling system components: water pump, thermostat, radiator, hoses, etc. I think the rad. cap was switched out at some point for no real reason.

If tap water or the incorrect coolant has ever been used, then I would completely flush out the entire cooling system (including heater core) with distilled water and then use concentrated P-HOAT coolant (color doesn't matter, but red is the official color) and switch out the thermostat. I would use an Aisin/Tama or Kuzeh thermostat or one from the Toyota parts counter, which is probably an Aisin/Tama/Kuzeh anyway.
 

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Since you're going to change your water pump and drain the fluid, I would change the thermostat also at your mileage. Use a toyota thermostat. Some aftermarket ones can give you issues. Once you change it, then you're good for another 120,000 miles plus.
Check your serpentine while you're there. If it's original, change that also.Use toyota long life antifreeze.
Do what you can when you're working in that area , then you wont have to worry about it again for a long long time.
 

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Use a toyota thermostat. Some aftermarket ones can give you issues.
^^Yes, especially the "Murray" brand (bought it at O'Reilly for my DIL's Mazda Tribute). Murray is the same as the "MotoRad" brand, btw. Piece of junk which wasted my time and money. Replaced it with the OE Motorcraft thermostat and all was well.

Aisin/Tama/Kuzeh are OEM for Toyota. I would only use OE Toyota or OEM listed here.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks all. I went ahead and ordered the Aisin for the thermostat. From the pictures and a few older threads here on different vehicle sub forums, the Gates tstats seem to be worse off. For the water pump though, I decided to buy the Gates pump. Both Gates and Aisin seem to have their set of good and bad reviews. The prices aren’t really much different either. I figured at least I get lifetime warranty on this one.

As for antifreeze, the car had its coolant flushed by the Toyota dealership about 50k miles ago. It’s never seen tap water or generic green coolant. I plan on replacing the coolant with the Zerex Asian stuff. It’s super cheap at Walmart and meets all Japanese OEMs PHOAT requirements.

I changed the serpentine belt with the Gatorback version about 15k miles back and at the same time, switch to the spring loaded/external spring visible tensioner. So that’s already taken care of.
I got a 1/4” drive torque wrench too. So I’m hoping I can get definite torque values on the bolts while doing this project.
 

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Definitely dont sleep on this, not a terribly hard job, might as well take a look at your hoses and radiator while you're there. I ran a qrp pump and oem toyota tstat
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yep, I agree. Parts on their way and I plan to minimize driving till I get the water pump and tstat switched out
 

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jsean, does Gates explain the process for warrantying parts, eg you pay shipping to send it back, or you buy a new one from them, then send the defective one back? It may not be worth the price of postage.
 

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And if your pump goes out, who wants to wait for shipping both ways?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I’m aware that Aisin is the OEM supplier. Like I said, the price wasn’t really different. But for a supplier to offer lifetime warranty, it’s gotta have some quality. I had a friend who used an Aisin water pump on his Maxima and it was leaking out of the weep hole in about 2 years. Aisin warranty is 12/12. So he was out of luck. From what I read, both manufacturers have had their share of hiccups. I could be wrong, but hopefully not.

@John Gi, you buy the replacement part and send them the defective unit back. Then it’s up to Gates to do their tear down/warranty analysis.
 

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My guess is your friend's cooling system had the wrong type of coolant and some tap water mixed in there along with other things wrong that may have caused that. I've well over 392K miles on the original water pump, which is an Aisin. No problems whatsoever so far. If it pooped out on me now I would say "Well done!".
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Possibly. I don’t know enough on the history on his car. But my car has never had any tap water or incorrect coolant in it. The car has an impressive service record history, with the anti freeze changed every 40k miles at the dealership. Yet the water pump has been going out since 120k miles. That’s not really great long term reliability, not in this particular case at least.
My other car’s HEPU water pump finally started getting noisy a year ago at 260k miles/29years and it’s been through a fair share of abuse.
 

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John Anthony, thanks.

For your 2004 Corolla with the original water pump at 392k+ miles, what brand/model of coolant do you use and how often do you change it? Do you change it based upon pH, specific gravity, or at set intervals? Is this durability typical of the other Toyotas you've worked on? Also, is the 2004's timing chain still good, or did you have to change it out?

Thanks
 

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Possibly. I don’t know enough on the history on his car. But my car has never had any tap water or incorrect coolant in it. The car has an impressive service record history, with the anti freeze changed every 40k miles at the dealership. Yet the water pump has been going out since 120k miles. That’s not really great long term reliability, not in this particular case at least.
My other car’s HEPU water pump finally started getting noisy a year ago at 260k miles/29years and it’s been through a fair share of abuse.
I reread your posts and am reminded that you changed the tensioner and that you had water pump bearing noise. I wonder if your tensioner wasn't operating properly and it caused stress on the water pump? I'm not a fan of those spring type aftermarket tensioners, but you've already replaced your tensioner so it doesn't matter, I guess . I prefer the stock type. My tensioner is the original.

For your 2004 Corolla with the original water pump at 392k+ miles, what brand/model of coolant do you use and how often do you change it? Do you change it based upon pH, specific gravity, or at set intervals? Is this durability typical of the other Toyotas you've worked on? Also, is the 2004's timing chain still good, or did you have to change it out?

Thanks
I have used various brands, but they have all been P-HOAT coolants and I have never put tap water in the system (only distilled water). The brand does not matter as long as it is a P-HOAT. I've used Toyota, Beck/Arnley, Pentosin/Pentofrost, and "OEM" by Recochem. The other brands are fine also. I change it every 2-3 years or so and not based on any kind of pH/gravity. I've done complete flushes with distilled water and then adjusting to the proper ratio using concentrated P-HOAT.

Interestingly enough, the color of the coolant does not matter as long as it's a P-HOAT. Red/Pink is the official color, though. Blue/Green/Red/Pink/or other weird colors like in Zerex Asian are just that: colors. The car doesn't know the difference between colors.

You asked about the durability and I'm not sure if you mean for the water pump or just the car in general, but Toyotas are generally known and famous for having great durability (with some lemons here and there). I still have the same timing chain/guides. No work has been done on the inside of the engine. Just valve cover gasket, front main seal, and chain tensioner o-ring. My rear main seal does drip a little bit.
 
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