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2009 Avalon XL
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anyone have advice for fighting high intake temperatures, or engine bay temps in general? I bought one of those bluetooth obd2 scanners that lets you see you metrics on your phone. After about a mild drive to make sure the unit worked, my intake temps were at about 160 degrees at idle. They dropped tot 130ish after 5 minutes of driving. then the low 100s a few minutes after that. The coolant and trans temps were just north of 200 degrees, so the whole engine bay was hot. This was on a 60 degree night, so those 90 degree days at the track must have been hell under the hood.

Right now I have the K&N short ram intake with the cold air shield.
http://www.knfilters.com/air_intake/2009/toyota/camry/3.5l?pcid=SFINHA&gclid=CJ24nYH62c4CFQupaQodNe0FTw

I'm know this is a nonissue for daily driving. But such high temps cant be good for my 60ft times. >:D Which are in the 2.1-2.2 range at the beginning of track day, and 2.3-2.4 towards the end. Now I'm starting to see why. Of course, any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Honda-Tech White Ops
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1,581 Posts
Well, You have a "Hot Air Intake" for starters.


When I built my street engine, I used a cold air intake. To prevent heat soak I did the following:


Unhook the coolant line to the Throttle body. (if you live in cold, snowy climate, dont do this, Florida is OK)

Thermal TB and Intake manifold gaskets (possibly for the scion Tc, need to investigate this further)

Some cheap windshield sunshade (10.00)


Cut the sunshade in a strip. Wrap the intake and use real duct tape (metallized) to seal up and keep in place.

I also used DEI titanium wrap for the exhaust.

When I did this, My intake temps were just 3-4* over ambient.

I have a pic on my computer, but can attach images, only in threads deemed worthy of attachments.
 

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Honda-Tech White Ops
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Im still doing research on thermal gaskets for the 2AR-FE which is a scion Tc crossover engine.


Now, If you want to sell off the K&N you have and see if you have a route for a true CAI, theres many parts available to make your own custom kit.
The only issue you should have is the IAT sensor *if its in the intake tube or on manifold. MAF sensor which with a little time, thought and elbow grease, can be done.

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/
http://www.frozenboost.com/
 

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2009 Avalon XL
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231 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I originally went with short ram intake + heat shield over the cold air because I live in northern Illinois where rain/snow is a weekly occurrence. Way back in tuner grade school, we all heard the cautionary tales about potential hydrolocking and cold air intakes. And to be completely honest, I put WAY too much faith in the ability of an under-the-hood heat shield to block out hot air. Lesson learned, so I just ordered this...

http://www.dcsports.com/ColdAir/CAI4409_Toyota.html

But for the life of me, I can't figure out, or find online, where the filter is gonna sit. So I wont know if it is out of harms way of water until it gets here. Also, I think I will add a switch to the radiator fans so I can switch them on at will. And I'm trying to find a way to vent the hood having to worry about rain/snow.
 

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Honda-Tech White Ops
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That looks badass...


But get a sun shade, cut a strip about 3-4" wide and the length of the shade.

Wrap the whole thing and tape it off.

As funky as it sounds, it does work with heatsoak from the engine bay. Now the heated TB will aslo play a factor when at red lights, but for highway driving, the incoming air in the tube should cool it down.


Your app should give you IAT before and after if you like to experiment.



Everyone was brainwashed on the whole hydrolocked thing.

But realize, this was made for track/off-road where there are no puddles.


My CAI was behind the bumper and I had no fender liners. It would get wet, but big deal.. A little water in the combustion chamber isnt a bad thing.
If theres some huge puddle where the filter is submerged, then yea, your going to fuk things up. Im sure one would know where the flood prone areas are around your town.

Im sure the filter is located behind the bumper somewhere.
Also curious how this will perform. Sub'd for future posts! Good Luck.
 

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2009 Avalon XL
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231 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Im wondering IF the 2.4 camry one will fit the 2.5L camry..

It's very likely that it'd fit! I am throwing Camry parts on an Avalon, afterall. :grin:

I ripped out the rest of my intake while wiring my fan switch today. I think I see where the cai is intended to go. The filter should sit right behind the driver side fog light.
 

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Slow 2010 RAV4 Sport
2010 Toyota RAV4
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279 Posts
It's very likely that it'd fit! I am throwing Camry parts on an Avalon, afterall. :grin:

I ripped out the rest of my intake while wiring my fan switch today. I think I see where the cai is intended to go. The filter should sit right behind the driver side fog light.
Did this work out for you? I now routing the filter either really low down in the car OR bringing in cool air directly to an 'enclosed' filter both had inlet temperatures either at or within 5 degrees of ambient air temperature.
 

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2009 Avalon XL
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Discussion Starter #9
Did this work out for you? I now routing the filter either really low down in the car OR bringing in cool air directly to an 'enclosed' filter both had inlet temperatures either at or within 5 degrees of ambient air temperature.
This worked out great! Especially after wrapping the intake in the sunshade material. While driving, my intake temps are 7-10 above outside in the city, 3-5 above in the highway. At the track, the intake is usually 5-10 degree above ambient when I'm at the line, and drops to 0-1 degree above while running. Heatsoak is a nonissue now. I let the car cool down when I first get to the track, after that I can run until the cows come home. With consistent times, too. Coolant, trans, and intake temps stay down as long as I'm running. After 4 runs in a row, however, brake fade starts to set in. If I find myself stick in a line to run, the fan switch does come in handy. The trans and engine temps go way down, but if I run it too long, the intake temps go up since the CAI runs right behind the cooling fans. I dropped .2 secs in the 1/4 mile when I switched from the short ram to the cold air intake.
 

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Honda-Tech White Ops
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This worked out great! Especially after wrapping the intake in the sunshade material. While driving, my intake temps are 7-10 above outside in the city, 3-5 above in the highway. At the track, the intake is usually 5-10 degree above ambient when I'm at the line, and drops to 0-1 degree above while running. Heatsoak is a nonissue now. I let the car cool down when I first get to the track, after that I can run until the cows come home. With consistent times, too. Coolant, trans, and intake temps stay down as long as I'm running. After 4 runs in a row, however, brake fade starts to set in. If I find myself stick in a line to run, the fan switch does come in handy. The trans and engine temps go way down, but if I run it too long, the intake temps go up since the CAI runs right behind the cooling fans. I dropped .2 secs in the 1/4 mile when I switched from the short ram to the cold air intake.
Is this with the coolant line attached to the TB?

IDK where the IAT sensor is, but to get accurate temps, it should be on one of the intake runners.. But some makers put it before the TB..


But glad the sunshade mod is working for you. Its quite ugly, but works great! Alot cheaper than that gold "heat rejection" tape being sold.



Funny thing is, I posted this sunshade info on H-T and a few months later, I see a sanctioned race team thread with pics of their race car with my sunshade mod..
 

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2009 Avalon XL
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Discussion Starter #11
Is this with the coolant line attached to the TB?

IDK where the IAT sensor is, but to get accurate temps, it should be on one of the intake runners.. But some makers put it before the TB..


But glad the sunshade mod is working for you. Its quite ugly, but works great! Alot cheaper than that gold "heat rejection" tape being sold.



Funny thing is, I posted this sunshade info on H-T and a few months later, I see a sanctioned race team thread with pics of their race car with my sunshade mod..
This is after the coolant bypass. Which I kept all winter without incident. Did get a little less gas mileage, though. The IAT sensor is attached to the maf sensor a bit before the throttle body.

The heat tape didn't work too well for my application. With the intake pipe running right behind the radiator and practically touching a radiator hose, i needed something more along the lines of an insulant.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ahhh.. so that explains why so much higher over ambient.. Gotcha..


Well glad it werked for ya
I'm thinking about getting a compact lightweight battery so I can reroute my intake away from the engine, radiator and hose. How reliable are they? I know it'd be bad to leave the lights on when the car's not running, etc. But, would I be able to use stereo, heating and ac, fog lights and all that while car is running still? Do they still work in the winter ok? I'm thinking something along the lines of this...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XEF3DM/ref=psdc_15710461_t3_B0002ILK6I

Here'h the intake runs now

https://scontent.ford1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/19250709_10212223845484999_6308863274103244907_o.jpg?oh=1974582e3bf9affbbcced4b5c3ee0faa&oe=5A0BC8E7

https://scontent.ford1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/19095474_10212223845925010_8015162187546818524_o.jpg?oh=cbf73a65cd6b7dd9130b51c395ef1318&oe=59DFC6CF

https://scontent.ford1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/19221803_10212223845965011_4756975386425745068_o.jpg?oh=c3209e11e9bb67cdb5c7316fef8e06be&oe=59CB6381
 

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Honda-Tech White Ops
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I can only point out that if you live in snowy conditions, then the odyssey battery isnt for you.


Also, If you have any parasitic draw going on from an alarm,etc. thenthis battery isnt for you.


I have used a different varient of this battery, but the internals are the same. Dry cell, lightweight, sealed..

Racers have used this battery for reasons above but with my alarm, I found it drained it in a few days to where i couldnt start my car.
Just starting the car and letting it idle doesnt charge the battery, you will need to drive it and get the RPMs past 3-4k for the alt to charge..
But this was my application.. possibly since newer cars are computerized, it may use the regulator to charge it at idle.. I dont know the modern charging systems and its capabilities.


https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=680+battery


I used the Kinekik version as it was better CCA than the odyssey specs but half the price.
 

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Slow 2010 RAV4 Sport
2010 Toyota RAV4
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279 Posts
I'm thinking about getting a compact lightweight battery so I can reroute my intake away from the engine, radiator and hose. How reliable are they? I know it'd be bad to leave the lights on when the car's not running, etc. But, would I be able to use stereo, heating and ac, fog lights and all that while car is running still? Do they still work in the winter ok? I'm thinking something along the lines of this...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XEF3DM/ref=psdc_15710461_t3_B0002ILK6I

Here'h the intake runs now

https://scontent.ford1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/19250709_10212223845484999_6308863274103244907_o.jpg?oh=1974582e3bf9affbbcced4b5c3ee0faa&oe=5A0BC8E7

https://scontent.ford1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/19095474_10212223845925010_8015162187546818524_o.jpg?oh=cbf73a65cd6b7dd9130b51c395ef1318&oe=59DFC6CF

https://scontent.ford1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/19221803_10212223845965011_4756975386425745068_o.jpg?oh=c3209e11e9bb67cdb5c7316fef8e06be&oe=59CB6381
I have ran with that Odyssey battery in my RAV4 for one winter. It was a little harder to start up than my stock battery but did ok. The 2nd winter, not so much. Using stock battery now. In my Honda Fit, I am running an Evolution Ballistic battery. Weighs 2lbs. For a higher amp one, I can get one with a weight between 3-5lbs. I'd recommend those over the Odyssey battery. Had no problem with my Evolution battery. And it's LIGHT!

As for your intake.....oh man. There's some potential there. Gawd! Right after that first 90 bend coming away from the throttle body. If it wasn't for that friggin' battery, you could put a nice big sized pipe there. I'm talking about a 45 degree bend going towards the battery then a 90 degree bend down towards the bottom of your car. We talked about this before. Wish we were closer. Some experimentation in trap speed with the different size pipe would probably have you smiling. >:D As it is, your pipe is great for low end torque though. Then again, FWD may = Tire spin.
 

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Honda-Tech White Ops
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This is after the coolant bypass. Which I kept all winter without incident. Did get a little less gas mileage, though. The IAT sensor is attached to the maf sensor a bit before the throttle body.

The heat tape didn't work too well for my application. With the intake pipe running right behind the radiator and practically touching a radiator hose, i needed something more along the lines of an insulant.
As we all know.. Colder air is denser air.. More air, more fuel. But also, more power..


When you start looking for power, MPG concerns shouldnt be reflected on.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
As we all know.. Colder air is denser air.. More air, more fuel. But also, more power..


When you start looking for power, MPG concerns shouldnt be reflected on.
Agreed. Thats why I only use premium fuel, also. Even before the tune.
 

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Slow 2010 RAV4 Sport
2010 Toyota RAV4
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279 Posts
This worked out great! Especially after wrapping the intake in the sunshade material. While driving, my intake temps are 7-10 above outside in the city, 3-5 above in the highway. At the track, the intake is usually 5-10 degree above ambient when I'm at the line, and drops to 0-1 degree above while running. Heatsoak is a nonissue now. I let the car cool down when I first get to the track, after that I can run until the cows come home. With consistent times, too. Coolant, trans, and intake temps stay down as long as I'm running. After 4 runs in a row, however, brake fade starts to set in. If I find myself stick in a line to run, the fan switch does come in handy. The trans and engine temps go way down, but if I run it too long, the intake temps go up since the CAI runs right behind the cooling fans. I dropped .2 secs in the 1/4 mile when I switched from the short ram to the cold air intake.
Not sure why I didn't do this before but I am absolutely convinced that I will be doing the sunshade mod. I will be ordering the material needed once I get home from work tonight.

I plan on doing some bracket racing once 'The Queen B' gets out of the shop. Creeping around in the staging lanes have a tendency to raise the intake temperature more than I care for. Thanks guys for suggesting and testing this out.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
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