:cursin: Im Trying To Find A High Output Alternator For Cheap. I Have A 2400watt Amplifier That I Know Will Eventually Kill It. Seconding.. My Car Every Once And A Great While I Have A Problem With My Battery And Brake Light. They Both Flicker And Real Quick And Never Stay On. The Car Doesnt Run Abnormal Or Anything. It Was Looked Over By A Professional Repair Shop But They Coudlnt Find The Problem. Not That It Is Causing Any Problems But Its Just So Damn Wierd I Wanna Know What It Is... Any Help Is Appreciated!!
High Output Alternator For 91 Camry???
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2.0l I4 3fse Oh And I Aplogise For Reposting.. I Looked For It Last Night N Couldnt Find It...
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If you have 2vz-fe: Ebay item 350125765466 Nevermind, u posted your engine while I was typing this. Check the seller's store though?
Just out of curiosity, what amp is this you are running? Have you done the Big Three upgrade? What speaker(s) is this 2400W amp powering?
I like a loud system as much as the next guy (and my system isn't terrible) but 2400W seems like overkill in a 91 Camry. A properly designed system with a lot less power would be more than enough to make anyone deaf if they chose to crank it (if volume is your thing, which it seems it is). Is this perhaps an SPL comp car?
Jeff
90 Le Sedan AT, FWD
2vz-fe
141k miles and back from the shop yay!
Just out of curiosity, what amp is this you are running? Have you done the Big Three upgrade? What speaker(s) is this 2400W amp powering?
I like a loud system as much as the next guy (and my system isn't terrible) but 2400W seems like overkill in a 91 Camry. A properly designed system with a lot less power would be more than enough to make anyone deaf if they chose to crank it (if volume is your thing, which it seems it is). Is this perhaps an SPL comp car?
Jeff
90 Le Sedan AT, FWD
2vz-fe
141k miles and back from the shop yay!
Sorry Had A Typo.. Its A 3S-FE And No I Havent Done The Big Three Upgrade.. I Completely Forgot Bout That.. Its Been Years Since I Did It. And My Amp Is A Orion Audio HCCA-D2400 I Have My Speakers Wired At 4 Ohm Instead Of 2 So I Dont Overpower Them Making The Amp Less Than 2400w. My Speakers Are http://www.fastlane-carsystems.nl/SiteManager.php?cSite=1&cLayout=10&cPage=61&cId=410 Two Of Those. Please Dont Judge Me By Them If U Have Never Heard Them. My Box Is A Sealed Box And I Have The Audio Taken Care Of. It May Be Better If I Had A Custom Box But Havent Designed One Yet.. Not Really A High Priority. Just Need Power. And I Am Not SPL Comp Car.. Just I Like It Loud If I Want It Loud LMAO! Maybe Some Opinons May Help. Thanks For All Ur Help Guys! Im New To This Forum But I Check It Every Day And Do All i Can To Help!
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Can you please stop capitalizing the first letter of each word you type? It makes reading your posts annoying.
The amp you have is only capable of the advertised 2,400 on MAX peaks and likely only at 1ohm. You are running about 425W RMS. Remember that those full 425W are probably rarely ever used unless you have your gains set just right and you play full volume.
For my 2 12" Oz Audio subs (sealed box, wired parallel) I run a Phoenix Gold Octane R 8.0:1 which is listed at 800W MAX at 2ohms mono, about 400RMS watts so about 200 to each sub. You are smart to be looking for a higher-than-stock-output alternator rather than a cheesey "cap". You just don't need a huge alternator at this point....unless you are running some huge amps for your interior speakers. BTW, what else are you running? Head unit, speakers, amps, etc.
Jeff
90 Le sedan AT, FWD
2vz-fe
141k miles and back from the shop yay!
The amp you have is only capable of the advertised 2,400 on MAX peaks and likely only at 1ohm. You are running about 425W RMS. Remember that those full 425W are probably rarely ever used unless you have your gains set just right and you play full volume.
For my 2 12" Oz Audio subs (sealed box, wired parallel) I run a Phoenix Gold Octane R 8.0:1 which is listed at 800W MAX at 2ohms mono, about 400RMS watts so about 200 to each sub. You are smart to be looking for a higher-than-stock-output alternator rather than a cheesey "cap". You just don't need a huge alternator at this point....unless you are running some huge amps for your interior speakers. BTW, what else are you running? Head unit, speakers, amps, etc.
Jeff
90 Le sedan AT, FWD
2vz-fe
141k miles and back from the shop yay!
all im running is that amplifier, headunit, and my HID's that could draw power its just when i turn it up... it dims light and my voltage drops to like 10-11.5 and i have a prob with my amp cutting out due to lack of voltage as a safty on the amp so i cant keep it cranking without it cuttin out after so long. idk if upgrading to the big 3 would help. i am a fan of oz audio btw.. what models do u have? The Matrix Elites? But anyhow... what would help the power surges? to keep a more constant voltage... because afterall the amp cant perform at reccommended voltage if i cant keep it up while playing music. if you would like i can video the stereo system and what it does and post it tommorrow... i used to be huge into car audio but last 2 years ive just fell out of it and every vehicle ive ever owned ive had to replace the damn alternator. cuz i know those "caps" dont work. its just a damn excuse to say it "helps" and do u think that the stock alternator would be able to take the stress of the voltage drop so often?
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HIDs? You likely have a lot of glare/sparklies due to the design of our headlamps (flutes). You can't see it all that well from your car but other cars are affected by it. Bad bad idea, just ask on this forum or go to DanielSternLighting.com
You can get your alternator rewired by an alternator specialist. The Big 3 will help. What gauge wire is that going to the Orion amp? Looks like 8.
Sure go ahead and do the video. What is your head unit? Are you saying you have the stock speakers still?
Caps can work effectively. But, you have to have a solid alternator and battery. They are not a cure-all, but they help with transient pulses when the rest of the charging system is healthy. Most times you do not need a cap.
I have old Oz Audio subs. Like over 12 years old lol. But they sound good to my ears.
Jeff
I am currently running 4ga wiring to my amplifier. I have a pionner DEH-7800MP Headunit. Front Digital Audio 4" speakers And Pioneer 6.5" speakers in the rear. So difficult, And not alot of money to do so.. :disappoin
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Yes, this car sucks for front stage (stock). Those 3.5" or 4" speakers fire into your knees, lame. I couldn't stand them so I made a set of door pods for some Infinity Kappas I had leftover from an old install, with damping pads for better midbass, higher cone breakup threshold. They sound 100x better than stock that's for sure. A Memphis PR100.2 100x2 powers them.
I have 5.25" JL XR coax in the rear stock spot, but I also added Alpine Type R 6x9's in the rear door in pods I made. I switch my rear fill due to 5.1 needs lol. Those are powered by a MTX 35x2 and the Alpines an MTX Thunder 75x2 (that amp is a beast)
The subs are the 2 Oz I mentioned, 12" in pro-made sealed box with damping pads, Second Skin vibration deadener and Cascade Audio spray and fiberfill. Head unit is JVC AVX2 3.5" Widescreen, DVD, DVD-Audio, 5.1 processor, DTS, 12 disc (plays Data-DVD for huuuuge MP3 collections) and XM (they suck) it's awesome. An Alpine center channel speaker is right below it where the stock pocket used to be. A Kicker ZX amp bridged mono to 150x1 powers it.
I spent little $ putting the system together, I really only bought materials and the PG 8.0:1 and the JVC. Everything else was leftover from old installs I had so it's ghetto-mis-matched. I put multiple layers of Second Skin Pro and RAAMAT and Ensolite all over the interior and all the trunk. My stupid carpet took forerver to fit again it sucked lol. I double sprayed the front doors with Cascade Audio deadener and the inside of the front pods. You can't hear a lot of road noise which was the point.
Jeff
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