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My alternator has been dyinhg a slow death for the past 6 moths or so. Usual symtoms,a little whine at idle,dancing voltmeter when A/C is on. I think it would have died quicker if I didnt have a Optima yellow top.Thanks DaveGS4:thumbup:. The last straw was two days ago when I went to back out of th garage and I hit the brakes and the headlight/ dash lights blinked:confused: . I thought I was still sleep so I did it again.Blinked again. Voltmeter was reading almost 13-14. After a couple more stabs . I said screw it and took the wifes car. Had the battery checked it was fine. Put it back in the car and turned on all the accessories and turned up my gains on the sub amp,voltmeter dropped to 11 car almost stalled :eek:.
I checked every part store in the area to cross reference part numbers to make sure it would fit. Someone had alrready done this on TN, but I wanted to be sure. I deceide to pull the trigger...but nobody has one in the area. No Toyota dealership, no parts store , no bone yards :confused:. Toyota dealer said I could have one by monday or so. Called NAPA on a whim. They have ONE :whatwhat:
Took about 1.5 hours to install. Then I fired her up. Wow, my little 80 amp alternator was hanging on by a thread, No blinking lights,all the whining is gone, the voltmeter stays pegged at 14.5 or so. I turned everything on and cranked the stereo(sorry neighbors). Stayed at 14-14.5. WOW. This was well worth the 300 bucks. Yes its expnsive,but is was new not used.

FYI this alternator upgrade should fit all 1MZFE'S.
Camrys and Solaras have 80 amp
Most Siennas,Avalons,ES300' have 100 amp
RX300's I didnt check
Not all Highlanders have 130 amps most have 100. The 130 is the HO usually coupled with a towing package or 4wd.
 

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TN Pussy Man
Camry
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13,302 Posts
good to hear it worked out for you :thumbup:

but 300 bucks is expensive as just an upgrade....:eek:

but since you had to get a new one anyway, then it's a good time to do so, that's for sure
 

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96 Camry V6 LE
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565 Posts
I think i need a new amp too bacuse about three weeks ago i had a major short at the positive battery cable 5 times which pretty much killed the altenators performance and weakened my beterry whick is not making the new battery terminal moist from what apparently looks like some battery acid.

How did you connect the voltimeter? at the battery while it was running or whith the battery disconnected and the engine running? I am going to try that to see the voltage my alt is making.
 

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TN Pussy Man
Camry
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13,302 Posts
V6LE_CAMRY said:
I think i need a new amp too bacuse about three weeks ago i had a major short at the positive battery cable 5 times which pretty much killed the altenators performance and weakened my beterry whick is not making the new battery terminal moist from what apparently looks like some battery acid.

How did you connect the voltimeter? at the battery while it was running or whith the battery disconnected and the engine running? I am going to try that to see the voltage my alt is making.

you have to use the voltmeter while the battery is connected, then take a look at the difference in voltage when the car is on, and when the car is off- that usually gives you a pretty good idea about the shape that both your battery and your alternator is in



peanutbutter said:
Has this upgrade been tried on a i4 00?

and no, the highlander alternator is only a direct drop in for the 1mz, and I would then presume, probably the 3mz

but not the 5sfe
 

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I HATE to bring this subject back up but i want to know.. what other alternator can i buy (preferably more than 80 amps) for my 5sfe??.. my headlights have ALWAYS blinked/dim when i used the brakes or use the power windows..and now i have a sub/amp, i blinks hard (my car has even shut off several times from my subs).. i just want an upgrade to handle all my electronics and not dim my lights
 
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