[tedmich]

Drill press only pulley wrench, from McMaster Carr:
98023A044 $12.12 5/pk
Zinc & Yellow Grade 8 Steel Flat Washer
~48mm ID
~86mm OD,
~4.8mm Thick
(I used all 5 = 23mm ht)

9516K273 $15.35
O1 Tool Steel Tight-Tolerance Flat Stock
1/4" Thick x 3/4" Width, 18” length
(drill through slowly with much cooling oil, as with washers)

Only 1 of 5 (bottom) washer drilled 5mm and tapped
2958A83 $2.10
Metric Black Oxide HSS Jobbers' Drill Bit
5.0mm, 86mm Oal, 42mm Drill Depth, 118 Deg Point
(for 6mm bolt tapped holes)

8305A17 $6.75
Metric High-Speed Steel Hand Tap Taper,
6 X 1mm, D5 Pitch Dia, 4 Flute

2896A25 $2.30
Black Oxide HSS Short-Length Drill Bit
1/4", 2-1/2" L O'all, 1" Drill D, 135 Deg Point
(for 6 x 6mm bolt through holes (4 washers) and 2 x 6mm bolt through holes (1 washer), drill all washers together with 4 bolts securely holding)


Assorted 6mm x 1.0mm cap screws
2 x 35mm length to affix handle to spacer and washer stack
2 x 25mm length to secure other side of washer stack
2 x 40mm to attach tool to pulley (72mm CTC)


total cost of materials $27.47 + shipping
plus fasteners and specific drills and taps about $45

5washers drilled with 4 x 1/4" through holes and used as guide for 4 x 5mm through holes in bottom washer, 5mm holes then tapped to 6mm x 1mm, tap with care to make holes perpendicular to thin washer!

stack secured and then 4 x 1/4" through holes at 72mm CTC drilled slowly through all 4 washers with much oil, handle drilled with 1/4" through holes and all tightened down (6mm pins could be added by drilling from other side)

added bar spacer (14"= 6.35mm) cut from handle to get clearance (see below post)
6mm x 1mm fastener pairs lengths (from top to bottom) 35mm/40mm/30mm

(40mm bolt to pulley gives 17mm thread; plenty!)

2 x 6mm dowel pins (if needed) could be added with 24mm x 6mm pull out dowel pins (97355A302) at $1.31 each
with 6mm hole through 2 bottom washers, and 5mm hole through top 2 washers (plus handle on one) for 4mm x 0.7 bolts to attach threaded dowel pins. You would need two different length 4mm x 0.7bolts: 15mm and 20mm for the one through the handle

careful with handle, its precision ground with SHARP edges, best to chamfer or wrap!

 

[tedmich]

4 washers is too thin! 4.6mm x 4 = 18.4mm , all 5 washers give ht = 23mm!

May still not be tall enough, will report back!

 

[tedmich]

Wrench body needs to be at least 27-29mm high or handle wont clear pulley, 5 washers total = 23mm, so I cut a section of handle (length 1.5") drilled it 2 x 1/4" and used it as 6.35mm spacer between washer stack and handle

fits great with 40mm bolts to pulley, 35mm bolts holding handle to washers and 25mm bolts holding washer stack together (ground extra 2mm down)

and handle reaches A arm no problem

80ft lbs torque on crank shaft bolt DONE!

 

[SilverSoarer]

Very nice write-up.

If anyone is interested - I am selling a universal crank and camshaft pulley holder made of hardened carbon steel (can use for all makes and models) priced very competitively to the make your own option.

PM for details and pictures.

 

[BMR]

Nice tool, tedmich! I was going to add this to the stickies, but found another tool-making thread was already there, so I merged your thread into it so they're all in one place.

 

[markdunn99]

Hi...I thought this was a great idea as I needed to remove my camshaft sprockets this past weekend to finish timing belt/water pump replacement on Gen 3 V6. I made this same tool...however...it didn't work for me! The bolts were so tight I actually bent the tool attempting to loosen them! Luckily...I had ordered a specialty camshaft sprocket locking tool similar to this homemade version but it's a lot beefier. It arrived Sat morning just in time for me to finish the job. That tool worked great once I was able to wedge it against a 2x4 across the engine so I could get good leverage on the bolts.



QUOTE=artie in miami;3317759]I decided to make a tool to tighten the camshaft sproket nut and this one cost about five bucks. I got some one inch by one quarter inch steel strap and cut two pieces into a "Y" shape...drilled holes and connected them into a "Y" shape. Then I drilled a hole at each tip and put some bolts, washers and nuts on them...it works great to tighten the nut on the cam. Here are some pics

[/QUOTE]

 

[gen4.5camry]

i just bought all hardware from lowes... it doesnt cost around 3 dollars anymore lol. i paid 16.20 for floor flange, screws, washers, and nipple.

 

[fullofzen]

Thanks again, Artie. I cannot overstate the usefullness of this post. Not everyone has access to tools even as as simple as a drill press much less welding equipment or stainless steel stock. This floor flange/nipple/wrench made it possible to do my timing belt/water pump job -- this was literally THE thing holding me back from doing the job. It is really shocking to me that there is no real commercial competition to dz's "CLUB" or this frankenstein of plumbing. There is a camshaft sprocket holding tool for $25...but the crankshaft tool you gotta make yourself? Insane.

One substitution -- I can't speak to whether gorilla glue works. I used JB Weld to do the job. I had never used it before, but for those that don't know it -- I will tell you that it is simply two gel tubes that you mix together and then apply with a toothpick or q-tip or something and it basically makes a weld in 15-24 hours. Highly recommend the JB Weld.

One more thing -- you do not need 60mm bolts. Probably closer to 50mm. Otherwise, you will gouge the hell out of your lower timing belt cover as the screws will go right into that as they did on mine. If you can't find 50mm bolts, just get a bunch of washers to shorten up how much bolt you have going behind the crankshaft pulley.

Finally -- you need to invest in a deep 19mm 6-point socket. Was a little hard to find one in stock here in San Diego -- but I did manage to grab one at one of the major auto parts stores. Autozone was out of stock -- I think it was Pep Boys that had ONE in stock.

And thanks to Toyota for making the bolt holes on the crankshaft pulley exactly in line with those of a common floor flange -- what are the chances of that? This car was absolutely built to be maintained out in Timbuktu. Artie -- what was the genesis of this idea? Are you a plumber? How else did you know that those bolt holes lined up like that? You are a guru dude :rockon:

 

[Daijoubu]

Here's another design also using a floor flange I found on Google:
http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t17794_ds437639

KenH_DC answered about a year ago

Similar to the Toyota SST and the link provided by JDF99 above, I made a pulley/balancer immobiliser using 5mm x 25mm x 700mm flat steel bar and a galvanised steel floor flange. Of the various sized available, I used the 1.5 inch diameter for the 2003 camry V6 pulley/balancer; 1.25 inch floor flange will work also. Bits you will need are: one 1.5in steel floor flange; one length of flat steel approx 900mm long, 5mm deep and 25mm wide; two 35mm M8 bolts, washer and nuts; two 40mm M8 bolts; drill and M8 bit. 1. Drill two M8 holes 66mm apart on centre in the floor flange: these will be just each side of the threaded collar on the flange, 33mm from the absolute centre of the flange. Its good to get these accurately drilled at 66mm apart. When fastened to the balancer/pulley holes using M8 x 40mm (10.9 strength = approx. grade 8 SAE), the bolts will enter the balancer at 90 degrees. This minimizes the risk of thread damage or bolt shear (as warned by MLR00 above) when the rotational torque is transferred from crank bolt during removal. 2. To mount the the flat steel bar to the flange, put the flange on the balancer with the threadeed collar inside, toward the engine. Insert the M8 x 40mm bolts through the two newly drilled holes into the balancer holes. Don't tighten, this stage is jsut to get things lined up properly. 3. Now you will figure out the best place to put the brace bar. Line it up so the flat steel is over two holes in the floor flange and the other end is on the ground on the edge is resting or close to an immovable part. You may need rotate the crank a little to find a place where the flat steel will rest against the frame, chassis or ground, and line up with the holes in the flange. When you've determined the length needed to brace the flange, mark the flat steel where the original flange holes are. The marks are where you will drill the flat steel. 4. Drill two holes in the flat steel to mount it with 10.9 strength nut and M8 x 35mm bolt to the flange. Put the heads of the bolts on the collar side of the flange, through the original flange holes and the nut and washer on the flat steel side. Fasten securely! 5. Now mount the flange and brace to the pulley with the end of the brace and edge in the place where oit will lock up when torque is applied to the cranbk bolt. Fasten the flange so there is no movement or play in the pulley to flange: do not overtighten. 6. I recommend use an impact wrench. Search for 8 Amp Electric Impact Wrench fromj a well known supplier of tools. About a $100 for 350 ft-lb/s/s. I tried nearly 4 feet of breaker bar and pipe, and i'm not frail. It had never been out and was not coming out. The risk of damage to fender, crank bolt, wrist, etc. is just not worth it. It is certainly possible with that much leverage to take the car off its stands... 7. Engage the impact wrnech and watch it work. I let it hammer a bit, then zip.,..out it came. The large washer also catches nicely on the flange collar and drifts the blancer pulley of the crank as the bolt is extracted. As long as the balancer/pulley keeps coming off the crank end whilke the bolt is turned, the large washer on the bolt is pushing the pulley off. This is an easy and sure way to get the thing apart, without risking damage to components or limb. Note you could offset the flange from the balancer/pulley by using pipe, inserted on the balancer/pulley side). You will need commensurately longer flange to pulley M8 mount bolts.The longfer they are... the greater the risk of shear... Best of luck! Enjoy the work! KenH

 

[JohnGD]

LOL good find! It's great to see these ingenious solutions! That's what Toyota should have stocked the dealer service departments with so they can reduce the prices.

 

[borwish]

Mine might not be as elegant or tough as you guy's, but it's quicker and cheaper. The old timing belt, a scrap of wood (half a 2x4 in this case), and two drywall/wood screws.


Put it like this with the torque wrench on the nut to tighten and reverse it two loosen the nut.

John

 

[JohnGD]

^ :lol: good stuff.

However, I wonder if this setup can handle V6 cam bolt torques.

 

[Daijoubu]

I've heard of people bending their cam's stud when holding it like that

 

[71Corolla]

^ :lol: good stuff.

However, I wonder if this setup can handle V6 cam bolt torques.

Maybe. I was able to remove the cam bolts from a 3VZ-FE by using the old timing belt wrapped around various parts of the engine bay. :lol:

But far better to just get a good cam holder tool, a pipe on the holder and a pipe on a breaker bar, comes right off.

 

[BMR]

For my 3VZ V6, I made one like on the first page of this thread, but since the cam pulleys have 5 spokes, having only two bolts 180 degrees apart didn't put the center hole aligned with the cam bolt. So I drilled two additional holes in the pipe flange and used three bolts. Worked great. Didn't even bend the bolts.

 

[71Corolla]

That looks really heavy duty, much better than the flimsy holder tool I have. Has anyone used one of these? It's supposedly designed specifically for 3VZ/1MZ engines, among others.

 

[1flipflop]

stopping crankshaft from turning when removing or tightening crank pulley bolt

M6-1.0 . I'd recommend using the starter bump method and a 12 pack:lol:and a prayer to loosen the bolt, and only use this tool for tightening it after the job. I've had those skinny little M6 bolts (that are for dampner puller mounting) snap off before while trying to loosen the crank bolt.:dunno:but never tighten that way?
:thumbsup:At front bottom of transmission(bell housing) is an inspection plate held buy 2 bolts use a wrench remove bolts a flat blade screwdriver to pry out the plate, you will see the ring gear for starter to engage, I always use a flat screwdriver inserted between the teeth to stop the starter ring gear from turning use a big enough blade so it fits snug too small blade may break or worse, I have always used this technique on rear wheel drive american cars with automatic transmissions,Im from back in the day of timing chain cars. Just started a job for a good friend(my 2nd time with T.belt) timing belt and water pump on 97 Avalon and looked at the transmission for this inspection plate sure enough there it was yippeeee:welcome:smaller then what are on rear drive cars but totaly accessable to put a flat blade screwdriver between the tooth of ring gear and stop engine from turning and boy let me tell you that crank bolt had to be the tightest crank bolt which happen to be 22mm head but i use a standard size socket that wasnt deep well to get better leverage also a deep well with extensions has too much flex using a breaker bar with my floorjack handle to make it longer wouldnt budge the bolt till i used the non deep well socket and no extensions snapped it loose and didnt give the screwdriver any scrathes or marring the ring gear and will be tightening this crank bolt the same way. Since i will be removing the cam sprockets i do like the method tool you devised for removing the camshaft sprocket bolts i may have to come up with something like this but im going to try without a special tool for removing maybe easier than installing i will quote the method when i get going on this tomorrow just started this today after my day job got home around 4:30ish didnt get started till about 5 spent about 2 hrs removing alternator, top timing cover and loosening that bolt among other things, ive spent umpteen hrs so far just researching this project(the night before= ilike to know what im getting myself into too) because i like all the information i can get so thanks toyotanationDOTcom too for this forum and having great members to share the ups and downs im trying to not make any mistakes and information helps me not make any and gets job done as fast as possible so i hope this quote has come to help someone i personally would not bump start to remove this bolt sounds dangerous and could be i damage someone else car that doesnt belong to me ive never had any trouble doing the stop ring gear with flat screwdriver method and i used some serious leverage today to snap that bolt loose without any damage to anything or anyone. if i can ill try post some picks too..

 

[surgeon0]

Very innovative. Those washers are good for bearing installs, LCA bushing press, ... for a Honda too.

The Y tool I have to make soon. Great SST substitute. So many other uses.

 

[John Anthony]

Here's a modification I made of the first tool shown in this thread by the creative artie in miami: Instead of a pipe wrench, you can use a handle from a floor jack or use a pipe or metal tube:
Here's the whole setup. The jack handle sits inside the T section of the pipe and the other end of the handle rests on the garage floor. This holds it in place while you use your torque wrench:
Of course, I have found that an impact wrench with an 80 ft lbs torque limiting extension is MUCH easier than all of this. This tool is to be used if you don't have an impact wrench, but you should have an impact wrench if you can get one.

 

[Daijoubu]

I'm wondering if an impact driver have just enough power to torque down to 80 ft/lb vs using an impact wrench with sticks ($$)
But doesn't it rotate clockwise anyway? Thus tightning it overtime?