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Saloon Fanatic
Mr2
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Never have seen one fail yet. Something punctured it or it was defective. Its not that hard but its not easy. PS pump needs to be swung back, upper bracker moved and then the water neck from the pump to the head needs to come off. Then the hose can be removed. Probably removed the dipstick tube while at it and plug the hole at the oil pump while working above it.
 

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1997 Corolla CE
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160 Posts
I had that hose replaced by a mechanic friend, along with the water pump, timing belt, and bunch of other things (serp belts, thermostat, exhaust man, radiator hoses, coolant flush, crank and camshaft seals).
I'm glad he was able to do it because there's was no way I could've done all that and he only charged me $200 for the labor.
All the parts I bought myself.
 

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452 Posts
I had the hose clamp fail on me yesterday. I doubled up some small hose clamps that I had in the trunk but it's still leaking a little bit. Would doubling up the clamps cause a leak? Is it possible to change that hose without pulling the elbow off? It's possible that I didn't get the clamp tight enough since I didn't have the right tools, and it was raining out. How often do these hoses go? It seemed pretty solid still when I changed the water pump last fall.
 

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I'm having all kinds of fun trying to hunt down one of those hoses too. From what I measured, it's 1-3/8" in diameter and about 3" long. Already called Kragen and AutoZone, and they have none, nor do they list any. I just found out NAPA has them for about $10, and they are cut to size. They are actually 2-3/4" in length.

I'll be getting those tomorrow while I'm changing out my timing belt, water pump etc. Going to try and clean out all the grease and grime that built up behind the belt. Looks pretty bad. Might have to tackle it with degreaser and some brushes, then find something to seal up the timing belt covers when it's all back on. Maybe some silicone. What do you think?
 

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Just replaced the one on our 7A-FE a couple weeks ago. It is indeed 1 3/8" ID and 2.75" long. Don't expect to find one in the exact length.

I went to O'Reiley's and had to buy a foot of Gates 1 3/8" coolant hose at a cost of nearly $14, just to use a 3" piece of it.

And yes the old hose looked pretty bad on our car with 219K on it. It looked like it was bulging pretty bad and ready to burst. New Gates hose was pretty thick, and I actually had a bit of trouble getting the old hose clamps back on in place, but I finally got it on. This was on a new water pump and the original water neck, both off the car. There was also quite a bit of old coolant and rubber residue on the old water neck which I removed with my Dremel with wire wheel bit.
 

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Full Throttle
1993 Corolla SE Ltd
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6,775 Posts
I'm having all kinds of fun trying to hunt down one of those hoses too. From what I measured, it's 1-3/8" in diameter and about 3" long. Already called Kragen and AutoZone, and they have none, nor do they list any. I just found out NAPA has them for about $10, and they are cut to size. They are actually 2-3/4" in length.

I'll be getting those tomorrow while I'm changing out my timing belt, water pump etc. Going to try and clean out all the grease and grime that built up behind the belt. Looks pretty bad. Might have to tackle it with degreaser and some brushes, then find something to seal up the timing belt covers when it's all back on. Maybe some silicone. What do you think?
Have you tried your local Toyota dealership? That's where I got mine from and it only cost me a few dollars. They had it in stock too.
 

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429 Posts
Can I also just say that this water pump design is ridiculously dumb. Trying to maneuver the whole water pump/hose/neck assembly into and out of the engine bay is next to impossible.

They should have kept it simple like Honda!
 

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Just play along....
corolla
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3,383 Posts
After having a Nissan with a KA24 engine, it makes Toyotas design seem totally rational!

At least some of these wacky repairs typically only need to be done ONCE in the lifetime of the car.

-SP
 

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429 Posts
These are FWD designs after all:)
So? Honda D and B series 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, and 1.8L engines have a much simpler cooling system design IMHO. The lower radiator hose goes up to the thermostat housing on the rear (transmission end) of the engine. The thermostat housing also contains the coolant temp sensor. From there, there's a pipe running along the back side of the block/head to the front (timing belt end) of the engine. There are various coolant hose ports on the pipe, depending on the model of the engine. Then the water pump itself just bolts to the block, and that's that.

One thing I don't like about those Honda engines is the oil filter being on the back side of the block, but oh well. I guess the fact that you can remove the water pump without removing the timing belt is cool on the 7A-FE, even though you should replace them both at the same time.

Oh yeah the 2-piece oil pan design on the 7A-FE with some bolts being hex head and some being allen head is just so pointless IMHO.

Water pump (driven by timing belt) is on the left:
 
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So? Honda D and B series 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, and 1.8L engines have a much simpler cooling system design IMHO. The lower radiator hose goes up to the thermostat housing on the rear (transmission end) of the engine. The thermostat housing also contains the coolant temp sensor. From there, there's a pipe running along the back side of the block/head to the front (timing belt end) of the engine. There are various coolant hose ports on the pipe, depending on the model of the engine. Then the water pump itself just bolts to the block, and that's that.

One thing I don't like about those Honda engines is the oil filter being on the back side of the block, but oh well. I guess the fact that you can remove the water pump without removing the timing belt is cool on the 7A-FE, even though you should replace them both at the same time.

Oh yeah the 2-piece oil pan design on the 7A-FE with some bolts being hex head and some being allen head is just so pointless IMHO.

Water pump (driven by timing belt) is on the left:

There you go. Some manufacturers handle their FWD designs differently than the others, as your post pointedly pointed out:} By the way, maybe Honda did this since it is critical the TB is replaced so that the engine would not be damaged if it did. Good way for them to cover their butt.
 

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well that's another thing about the Honda engines - they're interference design so if the TB breaks usually valves get bent or worse, whereas Toyota engines are non-interference design (most of them anyway I think).

But I still think it's easier to work on my Integra than the Corolla is. :D
 
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