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Discussion Starter #1
I have to replace the two heater hoses as soon as they come in and i was wondering if it really matters wheather i use the original spring clamps or the stainless steel worm gear clamps. If the original clamps where do you get them. I know its not the biggest decision but, i know everyone on here is all about original toyota parts.
 

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1995 Camry LE Wagon
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5,147 Posts
The original spring type compensate for expansion/contraction of the hose. You can probably use the originals.
 

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it doesn't really matter, the original ones will last damn near forever, but they can be a pain to take off, I've replace some of mine with the screw type, but left the originals on the main coolant hoses.
 

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RX-7 Restorations
18 Camry SE
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1,570 Posts
i would order a set new from the dealer. the spring clamps are excellet and last the life of the vehicle. they wont be cheap from the dealer (prob $4 per clamp)
 

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What Toyota?
2008 Saab 9-3
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10,477 Posts
There's a special type of pliers you can get that's made JUST for removing the hose clamps. Well worth it, since they can be a PAIN. Saw eric the car guy use it during a heater core flush. Apparently silcone spray helps them slide off too.

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i would order a set new from the dealer. the spring clamps are excellet and last the life of the vehicle. they wont be cheap from the dealer (prob $4 per clamp)
Toyodiy.com is your friend for part numbers... and of course there'd always our site sponsors for parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just called my local dealer to see if they had any, and the guy said that the worm gear style actually hold better and that the only reason to use the original clip style is that they are speedier. So stainless steel worm gear is the way I'm going.
 

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The spring clamps are superior IMO, because they keep constant pressure on the hose, and there is no risk of over tightening. If the hose leaks with the spring clamp, then the hose needs to be replaced. The screw type clamps also dig into the rubber. If you do use the screw type clamps, they do make versions that are smooth on the inside so they do not dig into the hose.
 

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What Toyota?
2008 Saab 9-3
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10,477 Posts
for the tool junkies like me.

OMG. Do want. :clap:

The spring clamps are superior IMO, because they keep constant pressure on the hose, and there is no risk of over tightening. If the hose leaks with the spring clamp, then the hose needs to be replaced. The screw type clamps also dig into the rubber. If you do use the screw type clamps, they do make versions that are smooth on the inside so they do not dig into the hose.
I COMPLETELY agree with you. I'd be afraid of digging into the rubber.
 

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RX-7 Restorations
18 Camry SE
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1,570 Posts
if you are stuck with the idea of using the dreaded worm gear clamps, you can use some heat shrink tubing and cut a small section of it and slip it over the hose where the clamp will reside and shrink it down before you install the clamp. this will ensure that the clamp does not bite into the hose and still provides even clamping power
 
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Had to make this decision when I did my radiator recently. Went with the stock spring-clamp style. Figure the 'yota engineers know best and I like that it looks factory. :)
 

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from my experience, screw/gear type clamp are very easy to put on, and only works good for a while, and need to be periodically re-tighten when the temperature changes due to material expand and shrink with heat, and the radiator side is plastic, can't tighten too much, either break the clam or the plastic hose fitting.

i still prefer the stock hose clamp, it keep a constant pressure on the hose.
 

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I wrench, therefore I am!
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1,614 Posts
Why not reuse the original? If lost/damaged, I like the OE because they work, without guessing "Is it tight enough, or too tight". I've never seen a torque spec given, as for the band clamps used in plumbing. Basically, OE has/is an automatic tensioner. Worth a couple bucks apiece.
 

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I wrench, therefore I am!
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1,614 Posts
I watched the video, and he actually used two different types of pliers. The one to remove the clamp was a 45 or 90 degree angled plier. The one to remove the hose was a special hose plier. I have and use them all the time for such work, and even for other retrieval, like getting a rubber insert off a spark plug deep in a well.

They're available quite reasonably at HF--just search for long pliers
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Not that it really matters but i ended up using stainless hose clamps mainly because I find the OE ones are a huge pain to deal with.

SILICON SPRAY IS A GODSEND WHEN DEALING WITH THESE HOSES!!!
Trust me.

Just so people can draw there own conclusions about the issue i took pictures of the failed hose which had a OE clamp on one end and a worm gear clamp on the other.



 

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イリジウム
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13,506 Posts
I would prefer the OEM spring clamp. It's clamp and forget, unlike the worm-gear ones. The spring clamps apply just the right amount of force. The OEM clamps are matched to original hose thicknesses. So it helps to verify that the new and old are similar.

Have this tool myself. Works very well. Not cheap however it's like $40 and the cable may need replacing at times. I also have the cheap plier hose clamps too, hardly use them any more.



for the tool junkies like me.

 
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