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How do i fix this??

437 Views 9 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Old Man Ron
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Hello ive just seen that my door handles arent staying put and are just 1/3 open and pushing the handle down wont fix it… im out of ideas anyone can help?

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I believe this thread has your answer:


Ours has this same problem...although I'm waiting for it to enter "permanent failure mode" to actually do anything about it...heh...
2
You need to remove the door inner panel, then look at the inside of the outer handle. The plastic is cracked which reduces the spring tension on the handle itself. I use two good quality wire ties to force the crack back together and then the spring tension is restored and the handle will return to it's proper position when you release it.

While you are in there lubricate the window regulator and put some foam behind the rod to the lock button to stop it from rattling. There are foam blocks that come loose from the trim panel and flop around making noise. I just remove them.

54,000 miles after doing them the first time I had to do them again. My thought is the wire ties were cheap and I used a different brand. Once done the handles work as they did when new. A bonus is you just got rid of two rattle sources. My 2000 Echo now has 201k miles.

The 3 year old $50 spray bomb paint job is weathering but still looks decent when waxed up. MAACO wanted $1700 to paint it, but I only paid $1600 for the car in 2017. My first post here was looking for help finding a right side inner rack bushing for the manual rack. Got one from the United Arab Emirates and also bought a parts car and have that 170 k mile manual rack as a spare. Many parts no longer available from Toyota. Best move I made on this car was to put a JDM transmission in it at 195k when the bearings started to make noise. When they come apart the transmission can not be rebuilt.

Put a reman DENSO starter in it and it drives and starts as good as when it was new. Oldone was noisy when you let off the key after starting.
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You need to remove the door inner panel, then look at the inside of the outer handle. The plastic is cracked which reduces the spring tension on the handle itself. I use two good quality wire ties to force the crack back together and then the spring tension is restored and the handle will return to it's proper position when you release it.

While you are in there lubricate the window regulator and put some foam behind the rod to the lock button to stop it from rattling. There are foam blocks that come loose from the trim panel and flop around making noise. I just remove them.

54,000 miles after doing them the first time I had to do them again. My thought is the wire ties were cheap and I used a different brand. Once done the handles work as they did when new. A bonus is you just got rid of two rattle sources. My 2000 Echo now has 201k miles.

The 3 year old $50 spray bomb paint job is weathering but still looks decent when waxed up. MAACO wanted $1700 to paint it, but I only paid $1600 for the car in 2017. My first post here was looking for help finding a right side inner rack bushing for the manual rack. Got one from the United Arab Emirates and also bought a parts car and have that 170 k mile manual rack as a spare. Many parts no longer available from Toyota. Best move I made on this car was to put a JDM transmission in it at 195k when the bearings started to make noise. When they come apart the transmission can not be rebuilt.

Put a reman DENSO starter in it and it drives and starts as good as when it was new. Oldone was noisy when you let off the key after starting. View attachment 422719 View attachment 422720
Thanks ill look into it!
I believe this thread has your answer:


Ours has this same problem...although I'm waiting for it to enter "permanent failure mode" to actually do anything about it...heh...
Thank you!
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You need to remove the door inner panel, then look at the inside of the outer handle. The plastic is cracked which reduces the spring tension on the handle itself. I use two good quality wire ties to force the crack back together and then the spring tension is restored and the handle will return to it's proper position when you release it.

While you are in there lubricate the window regulator and put some foam behind the rod to the lock button to stop it from rattling. There are foam blocks that come loose from the trim panel and flop around making noise. I just remove them.

54,000 miles after doing them the first time I had to do them again. My thought is the wire ties were cheap and I used a different brand. Once done the handles work as they did when new. A bonus is you just got rid of two rattle sources. My 2000 Echo now has 201k miles.

The 3 year old $50 spray bomb paint job is weathering but still looks decent when waxed up. MAACO wanted $1700 to paint it, but I only paid $1600 for the car in 2017. My first post here was looking for help finding a right side inner rack bushing for the manual rack. Got one from the United Arab Emirates and also bought a parts car and have that 170 k mile manual rack as a spare. Many parts no longer available from Toyota. Best move I made on this car was to put a JDM transmission in it at 195k when the bearings started to make noise. When they come apart the transmission can not be rebuilt.

Put a reman DENSO starter in it and it drives and starts as good as when it was new. Oldone was noisy when you let off the key after starting. View attachment 422719 View attachment 422720
Should i use spray foam? Also is it the plastic tabs that you are talking about that breaks? Thank you!
Look at the door handle's hinge. The spring that returns the handle into the recess where it normally sits, no longer has enough tension to close the handle completely. The plastic that makes it return the handle is broken and separated. Two decent wire ties wrapped around the broken plastic and then tightened as far as they can go pulls the pieces back where they were and increases the spring tension to return the handle properly.
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...Best move I made on this car was to put a JDM transmission in it at 195k when the bearings started to make noise. When they come apart the transmission can not be rebuilt.
Out of curiosity, where did you source the JDM tranny from? Our 02 with 283k mi can't last forever I'd suspect.
I think it was the only one they had. It was a salvage yard in Florida. I pulled my old one before the bearings came apart so it could be rebuilt, had 190k on it, was last year. I just went up to the shop I used to go to when I was in Williamsburg and told him he could have the tranny and used engine I got from the parts car. It's getting impossible to find anything for the Echo, the reason I bought the 2013 Prius C.
Yours is rebuildable until the bearings come apart then everything goes out of alignment and tears itself up. The one I used my parts car tranny had to be jacked up on one wheel to even roll. That was scrap metal.
The two bearings are under the metal cap at the end of the transmission. I think they can be pulled and replaced without removing the transmission but maybe someone here can confirm that. They are the two that connect the inut and output shafts at the opposite end from the clutch. No parts available from Toyota anymore. You can cross reference them from the numbers on the bearings themselves.
I have not done this so do a little searching for the JDM tranny (mine was $550). There may not be anymore where I found mine (most likely). If i did not have that option I would have tried the two bearings.
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That's a mountain of good information right there...sincere thanks, it's greatly appreciated! I'll get started doing my due diligence on this. Thank you again! :cool:
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