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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I am new to TN and would like to say hello.I have a small problem...all my bulbs are out on my cluster and I was wondering if anyone can give me step by step directions(Possibly without removing the steering wheel)to access the rear of the cluster so I can replace the illumination bulbs.I am still not sure if it isn't just a fuse(which fuse should I check?)but as I remember they slowly went out over years and I have been driving without them for 4 years now.Also I need to know how many illumination bulbs there is and what type they are so I know what to ask for at the parts store and have them before changing them.
Thanks for any help you can give me!
 
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Hi I am new to TN and would like to say hello.I have a small problem...all my bulbs are out on my cluster and I was wondering if anyone can give me step by step directions(Possibly without removing the steering wheel)to access the rear of the cluster so I can replace the illumination bulbs.I am still not sure if it isn't just a fuse(which fuse should I check?)but as I remember they slowly went out over years and I have been driving without them for 4 years now.Also I need to know how many illumination bulbs there is and what type they are so I know what to ask for at the parts store and have them before changing them.
Thanks for any help you can give me!
There is a fuse labeled "ILLUM" in the interior fuse block(driver's side kick panel). Check that first. It would be unusual for them all to be burned out but not impossible. There are several(3 or 4 IIRC) #194 bulbs for the backlight and one small one #74 on the temp/fuel gauge side. You'll need to remove the trim around the gauge cluster first. A stubby phillips #2 is easiest to use. You'll need a longer #2 phillips to remove the screws at the back of the gauge cluster. The next and hardest part is removing the speedometer cable. Then remove the harness connectors. The bulb sockets twist out and then you can change the bulb. Good luck.:thumbsup: Also, those #194 bulbs are also replacements for your license plate lights. Check them as well before you go buying bulbs. Its an often overlooked light and cops love to give you tickets when its out!:thumbsdow
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
There is a fuse labeled "ILLUM" in the interior fuse block(driver's side kick panel). Check that first. It would be unusual for them all to be burned out but not impossible. There are several(3 or 4 IIRC) #194 bulbs for the backlight and one small one #74 on the temp/fuel gauge side. You'll need to remove the trim around the gauge cluster first. A stubby phillips #2 is easiest to use. You'll need a longer #2 phillips to remove the screws at the back of the gauge cluster. The next and hardest part is removing the speedometer cable. Then remove the harness connectors. The bulb sockets twist out and then you can change the bulb. Good luck.:thumbsup: Also, those #194 bulbs are also replacements for your license plate lights. Check them as well before you go buying bulbs. Its an often overlooked light and cops love to give you tickets when its out!:thumbsdow
Thanks for your help.I had got as far as getting all the screws out of the cluster but was unable to pull it out.Do I need to unplug the speedometer cable from under the hood on the passenger side?Is there just one plug holding in the whole cluster?
 
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Thanks for your help.I had got as far as getting all the screws out of the cluster but was unable to pull it out.Do I need to unplug the speedometer cable from under the hood on the passenger side?Is there just one plug holding in the whole cluster?
No. You can remove it inside the car. The connector is attached to the back of the gauge cluster. You have to wedge your hand over the cluster, reach to the back and press down on the top of the connector. There is a tab on top that you will be able to feel. Press down on it while pulling the cluster forward. Its a bit of a pain in the ass but you'll find the trick to it. Good luck.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
No. You can remove it inside the car. The connector is attached to the back of the gauge cluster. You have to wedge your hand over the cluster, reach to the back and press down on the top of the connector. There is a tab on top that you will be able to feel. Press down on it while pulling the cluster forward. Its a bit of a pain in the ass but you'll find the trick to it. Good luck.;)
So do I have to take off the clear plastic cover on the front of the cluster first?I took all the screws out and tried moving it back and forth to get it out but it won't budge.What am I doing wrong?Is this video close to how the procedure goes,this is for a different year?
I have a repair manual but don't have a clue how to use it.Is their instructions in it,if so where?
Thanks for your help.
 
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The clear cover does not need to be removed. There are 4 screws that hold it in at the corners. Shine a light in behind the cluster and you will see them. The screws on the bottom are harder to see and may be whats holding you up. Also, there are some locating pins in the dash that may be giving you a hard time. Just wiggle it back and forth until it comes out. With the speedo cable attached and the cluster unscrewed, you should get just enough room to squeeze your hand back there. Let me know if you need more help, I have the paseo in the garage right now. I can probably find time to take a few pics if you need it.:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The clear cover does not need to be removed. There are 4 screws that hold it in at the corners. Shine a light in behind the cluster and you will see them. The screws on the bottom are harder to see and may be whats holding you up. Also, there are some locating pins in the dash that may be giving you a hard time. Just wiggle it back and forth until it comes out. With the speedo cable attached and the cluster unscrewed, you should get just enough room to squeeze your hand back there. Let me know if you need more help, I have the paseo in the garage right now. I can probably find time to take a few pics if you need it.:cool:
What did you think of the video is that close?
Some pics sure would help.:)I am just afraid of pulling too hard breaking something.Once I got the screws out I just pull the speedomoter cable and thats it?Where is it located in the center of the cluster,right or left.
I'm sorry for all the questions I just want to be armed and ready so I don't bust something.
Thanks so much you've really been a big help so far.
 
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What did you think of the video is that close?
Some pics sure would help.:)I am just afraid of pulling too hard breaking something.Once I got the screws out I just pull the speedomoter cable and thats it?Where is it located in the center of the cluster,right or left.
I'm sorry for all the questions I just want to be armed and ready so I don't bust something.
Thanks so much you've really been a big help so far.
Your welcome. Its no problem. I watched the vid. Is your cluster the same as the video? Or does it look like this?



The speedo cable is much harder to remove than shown in the video. I couldn't find a video showing the white faced cluster. On the 96, the cable does not come all the way out with the cluster. It is attached in the center of the cluster. Just confirm which cluster you have and that should help you figure out what to do. If your still having trouble, let me know and I can take some pics tomorrow. I may even make a DIY for it. Good luck.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I went ahead and took a picture so we know exactally which cluster were dealing with.I felt around back in the back of it and felt a large plug behind the speedometer among other wires.I found one clip on top that might unloosen it but not sure if there is two so I didn't mess with it as of yet.
Thanks for the pic mine looks different here is the pic.As you can see I busted the outside plastic part trying to do it in a rush without studying up on it a few months back.
 
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Ok so yours is the non-tach cluster. Removing it will still be the same. That tab on the back will release the cable when pressed. Your going to have to finagle with it by pulling on the bottom of the cluster while your hand is back there pressing it. I should have time to do a DIY on this tomorrow. If there is a you-pull-it near you, try looking for a used trim molding to replace your broken one.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks,I will definatlly be looking forward to that!I should go to the junk yard and raid a Tercel there is always so many there.They are easy to find parts for and the more I learn the more I know what parts that I will need over the years that are of value.What parts would you stock up on?
 
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Thanks,I will definatlly be looking forward to that!I should go to the junk yard and raid a Tercel there is always so many there.They are easy to find parts for and the more I learn the more I know what parts that I will need over the years that are of value.What parts would you stock up on?
As far as other parts go, grab whatever you think you'll need for the interior. Parts such as molding, trim or other interior related items are hard to come by in the aftermarket. The dealer is killer expensive for those parts if they can even get them. I had them quote me for driveshafts since the boots are shot on mine. They wanted $174 each for reman and nearly $500 a piece for new. I almost ran out the door.:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Does anyone have pictures of what the back of the cluster looks like and the plugs.I want to change the light bulbs on the cluster but have never taken the cluster out before and want to know what I'm up against so I don't bust something.
 

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TN's ex-Local Buddhahead
1992 Toyota Paseo
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389 Posts
96paseo, when I had to replace my heater core in February, I noticed that there was a flexible circuit tape that fit into the back of the cluster. Have you seen any problems related to reinstalling this tape (I removed it from its slot thinking I had to, but apparently it doesn't)? I'm going to be attempting to replace my own dash bulbs this weekend.

Also, does the steering wheel *have* to be removed for this proc? Not really a show-stopper, but any reason not to have my car get 26 mpg while remaking its fine EFI map due to pulling the neg cable, is a good one. :)
 
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