How Do You Replace Oil Pump Seal / O-ring?

I have an old trick we've used on V-8's and on my old Tercel's engine, but need confirmation here for its validity on a 5SFE.
Attach your nut to a stout socket and wrench. Preferrably a long wrench. If not, insert a section of pipe over it, long enough to hit the ground. Your goal is to have the end of the wrench about an inch above the ground then disable the ignition system so you can bump the starter to use the whole engine as an impact wrench of sorts.
Once again I re-iterate- wait for someone with more 5SFE experience to confirm it will work here. I don't know about clearances, rotation, etc. I don't think Yoda made any reverse-rotation engines, but you never know.



BTW... Because I haven't worked on the 5SFE yet, but intend to re-gasket it sometime this summer... What o-ring are ya'll talking about? All I remember was a seal on the pump front and a gasket around the housing?

(EDIT) Just looked at the FSM.... The Timing belt drives the oil pump, not the crank itself?? There is a balance shaft?? Yikes... Taint so simple an engine. More things to keep track of.

I used the starter bump method over the weekend on a 5SFE. It couldn't have been easier. I tried all sorts of tools including two impact wrenches .......still no go.

I used a long impact socket on a 1/2" breaker bar. I added a pipe to the bar and let the end of the pipe lie on the ground at about the 5 o'clock position as viewed from the left side of the car.

I didn't even disable the ignition...just clicked the starter. I walked around to the left side of the car and expected to see the socket had fallen off the bolt but it wasn't. I reached in and the bolt was finger tight..BEAUTIFUL!! Thanks for the tip guys.

I might make a simple tool out of a 2 to 3 inch piece of black pipe to reinstall the pulley. I figure it will resemble the hub tool used on 4 wheel drive hubs to remove the large nut that is recessed into the hub. I'll cut out two sections that will allow the pipe to recess into the spokes and hold the pulley. On the other end of the pipe I'll cut a slot that will allow me to wedge a pry bar and still allow the socket to reach through to the bolt. I hope to do most of the cut work with a 3" pneumatic cutoff wheel.

Thanks again,
Jay in MA

Typrus said:

I have an old trick we've used on V-8's and on my old Tercel's engine, but need confirmation here for its validity on a 5SFE.
Attach your nut to a stout socket and wrench. Preferrably a long wrench. If not, insert a section of pipe over it, long enough to hit the ground. Your goal is to have the end of the wrench about an inch above the ground then disable the ignition system so you can bump the starter to use the whole engine as an impact wrench of sorts.
Once again I re-iterate- wait for someone with more 5SFE experience to confirm it will work here. I don't know about clearances, rotation, etc. I don't think Yoda made any reverse-rotation engines, but you never know.



BTW... Because I haven't worked on the 5SFE yet, but intend to re-gasket it sometime this summer... What o-ring are ya'll talking about? All I remember was a seal on the pump front and a gasket around the housing?

(EDIT) Just looked at the FSM.... The Timing belt drives the oil pump, not the crank itself?? There is a balance shaft?? Yikes... Taint so simple an engine. More things to keep track of.

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