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2011 Blizzard White
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I am complete with Phase 1 (creating a custom box for my Rockford 10" speaker, detailed here) and now with Phase 2 (Alpine amp install tied into the 13 speaker JBL Synthesis system)

Interfacing with the "stock" JBL amp (model # 86820-0T010) posed a few challenges:

- The signal between the stock Nav head unit and the amp is a digital signal, taking away the ability to just slap on a line level converter and call it a day

- The front speaker outputs are actively crossed over *inside* the amplifier, taking away the ability to hook the converter to the speaker outputs

So to get a clean and full range signal to the Alpine amp, it took purchasing an Audio Control LC6i to do so. This device takes the signal going to the dash 3" mid/1" tweet and the door mounted 6x9 and combines the signal into one. Another nice option was the ability to add a dash mounted knob to control the bass level separately than the rest of the system. (other options to the LC6i, but way more expensive: the JL Audio "Clean Sweep" and the Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3).


Installation of the Audio Control stuff:

- I started with removing the driver seat's four 14mm bolts and then put the seat all the way back and leaned it up against the rear seats, this gave me room to work *and* didn't require me to unplug the seat which could cause an SRS light if you turn the car on with that unplugged





The JBL amp has four plugs on it, using the picture above:

- the far left plug has two red wires (constant power leads for the amp) and two other wires (not sure what they do, but it doesn't matter)

- the far right plug with thin gauge wires are the (digital) input signal leads from the radio *with* the 12v remote turn on lead on the far right edge of the plug (closest to the back of the car)

- the middle two plugs are the speaker outputs. I didn't have any leads of what was what so I took off the power window clusters off each door (they just lift straight up) and removed the grill from the 3" dash speaker, removed the two 10mm bolts holding those in and then used my multimeter to find the wires from these locations to the amplifier... very time consuming, but worth it as I found everything I need.












- Then I popped off the dash piece that contains the phone holder and mounted my bass level control inside the storage bin and fished the wire through the console down to the LC6i





- Here is the LC6i install completed






Amplifier Installation:

- First things first, where/how to run the power wire to the battery. I started inside the car looking for a grommet to poke through to get from inside the car to the engine bay. I found a nice spot just above the gas pedal and poked a straightened out metal hanger, taped my power wire, and put a little bit of grease over the tape so it slides through easily. Here is the result of that:







- Remote turn on for the Alpine amp was piggybacked on the JBL's turn on lead (again, far right plug, green wire on the end)




- I dug into the rear storage compartment of the center console, remove the two 10mm bolts holding it down and was able to lift it up enough to run and tuck under:

--> Power wire
--> Remote turn on wire
--> 4 channel RCAs from the LC6i

- I peeled the carpet back, scraped off the paint from a solid metal part on the floor and ground the amplifier there


- Completed amp install:






- All this powering my completed subwoofer enclosure:







Phase 3 during the summer will be to replace the front and rear speakers with a good quality 3 way set and powering them off the Alpine amp (which is 5 channel and can handle the whole car)


Thanks for reading !!





References:
- Modified Life
- Audio Control LC6i
- Alpine PDX-5
- Rockford Fosgate P3 Shallow Mount Punch Subwoofer
 

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Love it!!

I just installed an Alpine 5 channel (less power than your PDX) under my passenger seat as well yesterday. I was inspired by your subwoofer install and wanted to update my system. I'll take some pics when the weather's a bit warmer to post up but here's what I installed to replace my stock 6 speaker system:

Head Unit: Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD
Amp: Alpine MRX-V60 (5 Channel)
Front Speakers: Alpine SPS-619 (6"x9")
Rear Speakers: Alpine SPS-610 (6.5")
Subwoofer: Pioneer TS-SWX251 (10")

I still have to tune it with the proper settings on the amp but so far it's been a great improvement over the stock system.
 

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2011 Blizzard White
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Discussion Starter #6
Neat way mounting the sub inside the wheel! How does it sound?
after spending the weekend with everything all hooked up, my biggest (but minor) problem sound-wise is the front door 6x9's... since they aren't crossed over to remove the low bass from them, they distort as they try to keep up with the added on woofer... this will be solved when I move the rest of the speakers off the JBL amp and onto the Alpine amp

Still have a *little* bit of time to spend on the fiberglass enclosure and sealing up small air leaks... i already knocked out like 4 of them by sealing them up with silicone.... there may be a few more to seal up
 

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2011 Blizzard White
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Discussion Starter #9
Follow up:

My notes I was making got buried in the garage and I found them as I was putting stuff away the other night, so here are the pin locations for the front speakers at the JBL amplifier:

To note, the tweeters on the dash are wired together with the 3" dash speakers and passively crossed over, so there are no dedicated speaker leads at the amp for just the tweeters

 

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Sorry to dig up this thread, but I was planning a very similar install and I wanted know a little more on how you hooked up the LC6i (it's a little tough to tell from the pics).

As far as I can tell, you connected the 3" speaker leads to the Main Channel on the LC6i and the 6X9 speaker leads to Channel 3 on the LC6i, correct? Did you then use the summing feature of the LC6i to sum the main channel and channel 3 to the main output?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Using page # 6 as a reference:

http://www.sound-better.net/Support/Manuals/Autosound/LC6i_OM.pdf

Driver and Passenger 3" dash speaker leads are tapped for the LC6i's "Main Input"

The driver and passenger door mounted 6x9 leads are tapped for the LC6i's "Channel 2"

Crack open the LC6i and move the jumper to "Summed" and now the 3 sets of RCAs coming out of the LC6i are "full range" signals

.
 

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Here is a link to the 2008 Tundra JBL wiring diagram. While not the same unit as what's in the Venza, based on the wire tracing MorningZ has done and my own research*, the diagram for the speaker wiring seems to be the similar across the two systems (specifically, the rear speakers).

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage you do to your vehicle by using this document. It is for reference only

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6P7g9i1ixOKb2xCYV9qdkFqY0k/edit?usp=sharing


*While I haven't had time to test, I am in the process of tracking down the rear speaker leads to integrate with the LC6i. The driver's side 6.5" is yellow (+ ?) and black(- ?) while the passenger side is red (+ ?) and white(- ?).
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
use a AA battery wired across those Yellow/Black and Red/White wires to figure out polarity... one wire to one side of the AA and the other wire to the other side of the AA

if you have (+) and (-) correct: the speaker will pop outwards when you apply that DC voltage
if you have it backwards: the speaker will suck in when you apply that voltage
 

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use a AA battery wired across those Yellow/Black and Red/White wires to figure out polarity... one wire to one side of the AA and the other wire to the other side of the AA

if you have (+) and (-) correct: the speaker will pop outwards when you apply that DC voltage
if you have it backwards: the speaker will suck in when you apply that voltage
That's exactly what I planned to do. Modified Life shows a different polarity than the wiring diagram for one of the speakers, so I need to test before I tap. That is, if Toyota wired the speaker correctly to begin with as there have been anecdotes to the contrary.
 

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I found something else folks might want to take into consideration. I, currently, have my amp mounted in the back by my subs. If you look at MorningZ's picture below, my amp would be in the compartment to the right of the spare tire:



Now, keep in mind, the LC6i is a LOC. Therefore, it's going to take speaker-level outputs and reduce them to line-level outputs (over-simplified, perhaps, but...). The JBL speakers are low impedance, therefore the power coming out of the amp is fairly low already.* In fact, it's so low, I had the RCA inputs on my amp wired directly to the speaker outputs because I couldn't get enough power from the LOC to the back of the vehicle (even then, I still needed a JL CL-RLC line driver to boost the signal even more).

My reason for doing installing the LC6i was for channel summing for a later, total system install; I originally had my sub amp running just off the 6x9 leads from the JBL amp. After installing the LC6i, I was getting, at best, 1 volt by the time signal went through 12' of RCAs to the back of the Venza and that's with the gain on the LC6i turned almost all the way up. While not terrible, it's still fairly limiting on my Kenwood Excelon x500-1; it seems to lose some range when the gain is set more sensitive than 1V. To overcome this, I am going to add an Audiocontrol Matrix Plus. I will be installing it under the passenger's seat where MorningZ installed his amp. So far, I have the RCAs and power ran, so when the Matrix Plus comes in, all I have to do is plug everything in, re-set gains, and move on. I am also using the remote currently plugged into the LC6i and putting it on the Matrix Plus which will make some sense in a moment.

Since I only really need the LC6i to sum the audio, I am running a short set of RCAs, plugged into the LC6i's main output, under the center console to the Matrix Plus. The Matrix plus can replicate the signal across all three outputs, so I will be doing this and running two sets of RCAs to the back for the current and future amp (I'm going to run both now to avoid additional work later). The sub amp will be connected to channel 3 on the Matrix Plus (the channel controlled by the remote), and the others will be plugged into channel one when I add the new amp this Summer.

I figure it would be better to use the remote on the Matrix Plus since, I hope, there will be quite a bit more power to attenuate with the knob than the LC6i. Right now, I get noticeable "bump" in power/headroom/something when I turn the knob past the halfway point. I think the amp struggles too much when the signal is less than about .5V. I noticed the same thing when I had a JL CL-RLC in-line with the RCAs.

The whole upshot of this is if you want to attempt this mod, keep in mind how much power the signal to your amp has. In MorningZ's case, since his amp is fairly close to the LC6i, I would imagine his signal is OK. In my case, the signal was degrading to a point by the time it got to the back of the car (even using awesome RCAs). Had I known this, I would have mounted the amp under the passenger's seat (it would be a PITA to relocate it at this point). That, and the Matrix Plus has an infrasonic filter (my amp doesn't have one) which will work well with my ported box. And I like new toys.

*This is pretty much standard for upgraded OEM audio packages with outboard amps (Bose, Infinity, JBL, etc.).
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just to note:

I have a 17 foot set of RCA's running between the LC6i and the amp, it's just a set I had "laying around" and I used, and it's slack is all bundled up and tucked away under the center console

I currently don't have any issues with the signal, but maybe this issue you found will be exposed when I upgrade the rest of the speakers and power them from my Alpine....
 

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Just to note:

I have a 17 foot set of RCA's running between the LC6i and the amp, it's just a set I had "laying around" and I used, and it's slack is all bundled up and tucked away under the center console

I currently don't have any issues with the signal, but maybe this issue you found will be exposed when I upgrade the rest of the speakers and power them from my Alpine....
I think it's just my shitty amp. I'm using these RCAs from Monoprice (cheap but good): http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10218&cs_id=1021814&p_id=2865&seq=1&format=1#largeimage

When the gains are set with the sensitivity < 1V, the compression in the amp is obvious (which is pretty crappy if it's that noticeable on a sub). With a 0dB, 50Hz test tone, and the volume at 32 on the HU (I usually listen at 25), I get .83V on the RCAs at the amp (I'm not sure what they are at the LC6i). If I have the LC6i knob set to halfway, now we're at .415V and even less when volume on the HU is at 20-25. It may be that twisted-pair or even cheap-o, speaker wire RCAs have a lower impedance than the coax-based ones I'm using. If that's the case, it might be worth checking out a set of different RCAs.


EDIT: I tested the voltage output of the LC6i and my RCAs with my DMM and there was no loss from the LC6i to the amp, so the RCAs I'm using seem to be just fine.
 

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OK, I added the Matrix Plus (MP) and I have a few observations:

-Using the ACR-1 remote with the MP controls the entire device not just one channel like the LC6i. The volume control has a different range as well, so the volume drops to 0 at about the halfway point. The ACR-1 is going back on the LC6i

-I think the LC6i manual is incorrect on the summing capabilities of the device, but I want to double check my jumper settings before I am sure. I was going to use channel 1 to send over to the MP, but it only had the signal from the 3" dash speakers; I had to use channel 2 (or 3) to get the full range signal. It seems that channel 1 inputs pass through to channel 1 outputs, channel 2 sums the channel 1 and 2 inputs, channel 3 sums all three. It doesn't seem right, so I want to make sure it's not a user error.

-The MP is a beast. I easily got 5V from it and my amp gains are all the way down providing plenty of headroom. It sounds much better. To tune, I cranked up the LC6i just below clipping, turned the gains all the way down on the amp, connected my DMM leads to the speaker outputs of the amp, and turned up the MP until I hit my voltage level. It sounds very clean.


What I have left to do:

-I need to check my jumper settings on the LC6i to make sure the summing is done properly (my LEDs are lit correctly, though)
-Run 2 sets of RCAs, one on channel 3 the other on channel 2 or 1, so that I can use the ACR-1 on only the subwoofer channel
-Hide the devices under the carpet below the seats
-Take pics and post them here
 
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