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How long do Highlander transmissions last and what is replacement/rebuild cost?

14K views 30 replies 12 participants last post by  WinstonUU 
#1 ·
We have a 2012 Highlander with the V6 and automatic transmission. Bought it in 2014 with 65k miles. it now has 140k. I had transmission fluid done at 65k when we bought it and again at 130k miles. It has shifted funny for the past 10k miles or so. Not sure if maybe they didn't do the fluid flush right, or if maybe the transmission is going out?

How long do these normally last? Should I get dealer to re-flush and hope that it resolves whatever the problem was?

If it does go out, what is the normal repair or replacement cost? I am in Texas.

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
#2 ·
Sometimes "shifting funny" is not the fault of the trans. Only way to know is to have it looked at and scanned carefully to check everything out including engine performance. Toyota products as a whole are not known for trans issues the way some makes are. They tend to be very reliable over the long haul
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the reply. "Shifting funny" may have been a poor choice of words. Sometimes when I let off the gas and coast for a few seconds and then try to push on the gas again, it will lurch forward hard, and it's been doing that for 6 months or so. Then yesterday I just felt some uneasiness in it when it was trying to shift up during normal acceleration.

I'm not getting any codes from the engine. What could they accomplish with a scan if it's not pushing any codes out?
 
#4 ·
Can you answer a few questions?
  • Was the fluid just drained and refilled at 65k and 130k?
  • Was the pan dropped, then gasket, strainer, & o-ring replaced at either interval?
  • Who changed the fluid?
  • Was the proper fluid used?
 
#6 ·
Yeah dealers typically do not drop the pan. My dealer has said simply dropping the fluid is good. Been doing that in all my Asian cars (one Infiniti and 4 Toyota units). I still have tiny bit of uneasiness about that but than again on all the vehicles I have ever owned before that required a pan drop I never really saw an advantage to it
OP you may still have an engine issue. Remember a CE light will only come on if there is something having an effect on emissions or if there is some kind of imminent danger (of course than it will flash which means STOP NOW). There are many other things that will not trigger a code or a MIL and can make it act "funny". Most simple but definitely need a scanner to see
 
#8 ·
Talked to the dealer again. At the time I was told it was a flush. As you said Luc, it turns out they did a drain & fill. 9.3 quarts instead of the 16 quarts.

Service advisor mentioned that a catalytic converter can cause that type of issue as well. Is that a common thing on these?
 
#9 ·
It looks like they just did a drain & refill twice since the pan could hold between 4-5 qts, thus the 9.3-qt value. I've owned mine since 2011, bought as a secondhand, and through all the years of reading in this sub-forum, I don't recall a catalytic converter would cause your symptom. I would think you'd have a rotten egg smell if it were the catalytic converter.

I did a general search by using this string: "highlander catalytic converter" and the Gen2 came up with:
Thread 1
Thread 2

The majority of the Highlander catalytic converter issues seem to be from Gen1. So I don't think it's a common problem with the Gen2.
 
#11 ·
Check the transmission dipstick to make sure the level is proper when cold and hot. If you are able to drop the undercarriage guard, you could check if it's leaking. Otherwise, I would consult with a reputable independent shop and get some feedback from them. Either way, you'll have to pay some diagnosis fee to the shop or dealer. I'm mostly DIY when capable and have time, otherwise, it's off to the shop. I only use the dealer for warranty work, which isn't much since '12 and '13 are the last Gen2 model years.
 
#13 ·
I'll say there have been very few failures posted about since I've been a member here. Even fewer for cats, though I can't imagine why that would be relevant. There have been a few transaxles replaced under warranty for a final drive whine, but that has to do with how the gears were machined/honed, not shifting.

When you say lurch forward, is it when you hit the accelerator hard after coasting (the fuel injectors do turn off when you do that, you essentially restart the engine when you put your foot on the gas petal)? Or is it when you barely hit the accelerator. I've noticed ever since I've bought this car the transition to coasting with the fuel injectors off and slightly accelerating is not smooth one and it does lurch a little.

I'll also say I've basically tried to break this transmission over the years by roasting/abusing it. Mine does some unusual shifting at times. If you hit the accelerator hard after coasting, sometimes it will lurch hard because the transmission or clutch in the torque converter is still engaged when the engine is revving up, then disengages to downshift. Or similar symptom when trying to upshift under load, sometimes I think the clutches don't release fully when suppose to leading to a lurch.

I've replaced the fluid about every 60k, but after 195k miles and 12 years, I expect a transmission to act at least a little funny. Here is the question you need to ask yourself. Its out of warranty, and transmission repairs or replacement are very expensive, do you really want to poke the bear or just let it go as is? If its not leaking, not a major lurch, I personally would ignore it. Everyone definition of hard lurch varies so its hard to gauge how bad it is, when you say hard, I'm picturing like my old Jeep which would try to launch forward with all the issues it had...
 
#14 ·
Thanks for the replies.

It's not a major lurch. Sometimes it's subtle, which isn't a lot different from what it has done since new. Sometimes it's been a little more pronounced than that, but never really extreme at all. Maybe it's just aging...? I've taken good care of it and it sounds like failures are fairly rare.

So let me ask this - what is a typical repair/rebuild cost if it went out?

I'll check fluid level and engine mounts tomorrow. I need to go to bed now...thanks again yall!
 
#15 ·
I recommend you pour some this stuff in the trans, Hard shifting is probably caused by sediment build up in the solenoids. So far this has worked three times for me, Has helpd the trans in our CRV, Accord and Highlander and the power steering in our Camry with hard shifting. Pour one bottle of this into the trans and drive couple of hundred miles before changing the fluid. You will notice the difference immediately. Also if you have have a way, try resseting the transmission by using Techstream, before replacing the trans. You can get this at local auto store

https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Foam-TT-16-Transmission-Additive-16/dp/B0002JN2F4
 
#16 ·
Don't pour anything in your trans except what belongs in there. Mechanics don't come in bottles. Odds are absolutely nothing is wrong with it. I don't understand your dealer's resoponse. They could easily run it through diagnostics and find any issue that MAY exist. The scanners can get very granular in what they look at. Yeah you're looking at spending an hour's worth of diagnostic time. But it's far better than wondering or pouring suspect crap in to it and further messing it up. If they won't find a dealer or GOOD reputable transmission shop who will.
 
#17 ·
Taking it to the dealer this morning. We'll see what they say. I measured the fluid level with the engine off and cold and it was way, way above even the hot mark. Called the dealer and they said you have to measure with the engine on, which I have never heard of in my life. Maybe true? Only a company that designs cartridge oil filters would do something that odd...

Oh well, it's been a great car for us and I'm not complaining. I'm just trying to get the shifting back to being as smooth as it was, or if there is a problem, I just want to know because I'm sure it's cheaper to fix now.
 
#18 ·
Measure with e-brake fully on, engine running, warmed up, level ground, in neutral. That's pretty much SOP with an auto with torque converter.

With the engine running, a significant amount of fluid is flowing through many areas that drain when the engine is off.
 
#19 ·
"Called the dealer and they said you have to measure with the engine on, which I have never heard of in my life. Maybe true? Only a company that designs cartridge oil filters would do something that odd... "

Apparently you have never been exposed to an auto. They have been this way from the very first ones. In neutral or park (some like Chrysler require neutral) some don't care. Toyota does not care, engine running and up to temp so atf is hot. If cool need to adjust down slightly. So it has nothing to do with cartridge oil filters and oh BTW Toyota did not come up with that. That's how they were in the 50's and much of the 60's and then the spin on was invented
 
#20 · (Edited)
Yes, the ATF level needs to be measured with the engine ON, there are some you need the engine OFF like on certain years of Honda automatics. But many newer ones checked NOT fully warmed up (as in U760e without a dipstick), this is becoming the norm these days, not sure about which U-series transmission you have (sounds like the U151e?)

The felt filter needs to be periodically changed, and if plugged up, the clutch packs will wear out.

Not sure if yours is a torque converter issue or something else like dropped out of gear from pressure issues. I wouldn’t be looking at the engine or catalytic converters yet (did the dealer actually say that? Sheesh!) Did it feel like it was in neutral and then catches hard? Also could be wear debris caught in the valve body. For instance, the U660e was notorious for that as the case was too weak from bad design and The transmission slips just thousands of miles fresh out of the factory.

The link below is another member’s recent plugged filter and shift problems and an initial attempt to salvage with new ATF and filter. That was much worse at 165K miles, and looks like a rebuild in the picture there.

I personally would change the felt filter and ATF no later than 50K miles as in severe service if the vehicle's a keeper, earlier if using dino T-IV fluid (15~30k). I know, that’s a lot more than most, but I don't believe in the lifetime fill nonsense, as to me that's the 5 years/60K miles powertrain warranty period. Besides, parts and fluid are less than $50 if you DIY.

For now make sure the fluid is within range. Maybe the dealer is willing to reset the transmission memory for free.

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/slipping-in-1st-hard-shift-to-2nd.1664547/

Dealers are usually clueless about transmission internals. I'd think they outsource that to the lowest bidder. They might have swapped a lot of torque converters in house to save a few bucks as those are problematic in various U-series transmissions. However, at 140K miles it's not bad. I personally don't have much respect for the U-series anyway. Just check out what 2018-19 Camry owners are dealing with the new 8-speed.

A $20 filter/gasket kit (rockauto) looks like:
https://www.rockauto.com/info/4/B-224_1__ra_p.jpg

Where in Texas are you, near Houston? If so definitely check out Circle D Transmissions. You can give them a call even if not nearby to see if they're willing to give you some advice.

https://www.circledtrans.com/

If not look up on ATRA, some can be duds, so check references.
https://www.atra.com/shopfinder
 
#21 ·
I'm northeast of Dallas.

Dealer checked fluid and agreed it was quite a bit high. They did another drain & fill and filled to the right level. Car feels like it's back to the same smooth shifting it had before.

I also replaced brake pads on all 4 wheels myself this afternoon. Those springs on the front pads are stupid, kind of like the cartridge oil tiler and having a "cold" line on an ATF dipstick that is supposed to be used only when the engine is running.

All that being said, I'm at 141k miles and haven't really had any issues at all to speak of. Pretty impressive.
 
#22 ·
Another update - turns out a hose that comes off the air box and going to a sensor (presumably a vacuum line of some sort) was loose. Re-connected it and the issue is gone. It was an engine issue after all.

I called several local transmission shops in Dallas to get their opinion on whether this could be a transmission problem or not. One of them had never had a Highlander in the shop. One had a couple in the shop, but nothing under 300k miles. One said he didn't have any HLs in the shop under 300k, but said he'd seen one or two Camry's (not sure if they're the same transmission or not) between 200k and 300k. So I started looking around for other stuff and found the loose hose and it seems like we're back in business. Thanks to everyone for the help!
 
#23 ·
Auto tranny's will out last the vehicle if not abused and fluid not burnt or in dire need of changing. The Toyota maintenance schedule specifies not fluid change ever under normal use!! The dealer checked when I asked for a drain and fill. I like to do it once or twice as the miles add up to improve the quality of the fluid myself. Use the Toyota fluid specified as well. These Gen 2 are 5000lb rated, so if you're towing 2000lbs or so its way below the max rating and not stressed either. Thats how I look at it.
 
#24 ·
My 2015 Highlander has 122,000 original owner miles on it. All service done at regular intervals. Yesterday, it started shifting hard and erratically. It slammed into gear on shift up and shift down. At first no warnings or lights. I made one stop and when I headed out, it still shifted erratically and I got a Trac-Off” and Check AWD system”. A few minutes later the CE light came on. I had to be very gentle on accelerating and slowing down or the vehicle would slam into gear. I limped it to my Toyota dealer thinking it was a sensor problem. The diagnosis floored me. The transmission is toast. I have never abused the vehicle, never towed anything and did all service religiously. $6.4k for a new transmission. I am VERY unimpressed with the longevity of this vehicle!!!!!
 
#25 ·
Had you previously done a drain and fill of the transmission? I know there isn't a service interval for them when I asked about it on the 2012 but you have different transmission in the 2015 as its the next generation vehicle!!!
Yeah, I'd be floored and out raged at the loss.
 
#26 ·
2008 Limited 179k miles. Second owner and 2nd Highlander (2003).
Our 2003 Highlander would slow-shift at times. It would also flare and bang at times too. I heard about Lubegard Red on the Lexus RX300 site so I tried it on the 2003 HL.

The car responded wonderfully. Quicker upshifts and down shifts. The flare and bang subsided too.

Now I know there are skeptics out there regarding transmission additives as I was one of them. Read the claims the mfr. makes then read the reviews. Decide for yourself. The thing to keep in mind is LGR cannot hurt anything. Good luck, Hayabusafalcon.

BTW-I use LGR in all my automatics.

Links:

 
#27 ·
Fine if no other solution presents itself. Fluid in the tranny should be in a relatively good state first IMO. Not burn or truly degraded in need of change.
 
#28 ·
If the person's trans is blown yes an additive will likely do no more damage than is already done. But in a healthy functioning piece of machinery things can go awry with adding something that does not belong there.
Also I think there may be more to the story
 
#30 ·
I believe you have the 6 speed transmission while the Gen 2 I had was a 5 speed. Both were deemed as durable products. I find it quite odd. Has the dealer indicated what actually was/is the internal problem? Many time they don't know and just say its gone because they don't fix them just swap them out. A good transmission shop maybe a better option who know these.
 
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