How long does the factory 2.2 water pump last?
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Impossible to say with any certainty. The original pump on my V6 Camry went well over 200k miles before it started weeping coolant. And I wasn't all that great about changing the coolant.
If it dies suddenly, it can leave you stranded. So replacing it before it goes depends on how much of a hardship that would be for you. And, if you drive in heavy traffic a lot, having the engine die suddenly and losing power steering and power brakes can be hazardous.
If it dies suddenly, it can leave you stranded. So replacing it before it goes depends on how much of a hardship that would be for you. And, if you drive in heavy traffic a lot, having the engine die suddenly and losing power steering and power brakes can be hazardous.
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My Gen 1, 1984, purchased new, had the water pump to seize without warning at 37K miles, just out of the warranty mileage. Broke the timing belt. With towing and the dealer ripoff, it was very expensive to get repaired. Got rid of the car at 147K miles.
Now a new water pump is installed with every new timing belt on my cars.
Now a new water pump is installed with every new timing belt on my cars.
Most times you'll find out that your leaking a crap ton of oil from the worn seals or the notorious oil pump gasket AND seal is leaking for the 2.2L engine
But yes, they can fail anytime and sometimes rather early. Both the 2.2L and 3.0L engines for this generation Camry does not have any common water pump issues thankfully.
If the timing belt, water pump, seals, and oil pump gasket/seals are not done yet, might want to consider that to get done if you plan to keep the car for a bit.
But yes, they can fail anytime and sometimes rather early. Both the 2.2L and 3.0L engines for this generation Camry does not have any common water pump issues thankfully.
If the timing belt, water pump, seals, and oil pump gasket/seals are not done yet, might want to consider that to get done if you plan to keep the car for a bit.
If your service schedule has been followed you are due for a timing belt in 13K. If you don't have the classic signs of a leaking water pump I would just plan to R&R one when you schedule your timing belt job at 120K. And as has been mentioned look over the oil pump area as I would suspect you are probably due for at least the oring gasket and potentially the oil pump shaft seal gasket. Again all easily accomplished when you have the front of the motor exposed. Generally water pump service life is predicated on proper engine coolant changes.
Yes, why would you want to wait until it fails. Timing belt = water pump + the other stuff.
No, it means that the labor to get to the WP is as much as the timing belt so why not do it once.
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Until it starts leaking.
Actually true.
I've seen them die at 20K miles and I've seen originals on engines over 200K
I figured that as well, though sad if the WP could go another 60k, but could understand an owner not willing to take the risk.
There are clearly some outliers as some members have shared so you have to do what best meets your needs to reduce the danger of being stranded or being without a car for a day or so. That said, I think it's age more than miles that determines how long some parts last. I replaced my water pump for the first time at around 300,000 miles and it was still doing its job without leaking. I would have been hard pressed to detect any difference in the "feel" of the bearings in the old and new pump. I recently replaced the cam and crank oil seals and there was a HUGE difference between the new and old seals. The old seals were hard and brittle. It wasn't the mileage that made them hard, it was age.
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No doubt, but I would add that heat is a big factor too. When I replaced the valve stem seals on my 3VZ, the old exhaust valve seals crumbled like dried up peanut butter. The intake valve seals were in much better shape, but still very hard compared to the new ones.
Yes, particularly the o-ring at the back of the WP. It can fail before the WP but you still need to get to it with as much labor as TB/WP.
Agreed on the temperature factor...the oil seals are probably subjected to a lot more heat. BMR, I didn't realize the valves had seals other than the metal guides they operate in. There are some non-metallic seals in the valve guides now?
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Yeah, those valve stem seals probably have the roughest life possible for an elastomeric seal. Here's a pic of the new ones when I was doing the HG job on my 3VZ. These sit on top of the valve guides.
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