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Discussion Starter #1
OK so I have a SR5 2005 tundra 2wd.

It has an aftermarket lift kit on it that came with it when I bought it. Unfort I don't know how high it's lifted and now I need to replace the rear shocks and front struts.

The Front has what look like adapter piece that mounts to the strut. The rear overall strut length appears to be about 20.5 inches or so. It also has blocks on above the axle to give it the lift.

My questions are what can I measure to determine how high it's been lifted? I hope I'm not too vague....If so let me know I can run out and take pics or so some measuring.

thx

Brian
 

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Thickness of the block on the rear is the amount of lift.
The springs should rest on the axle perch.

The spacer on the front is thinner than the actual lift because of the suspension geometry, but post the thickness of that spacer and someone will be able to tell you what the lift amount is.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok the front space is a smidge under 4 inches...really hard to measure because the top of the strut tower gets in the way.

They blocks on the rear are about 2 inches and then have a little shim on top that's a 1/4 to 1/2inch...Again thats a rought measurement its kinda hard to get a perfect measurement.

Does this mean its a 2 inch lift overall?
 

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4" spacer is a LOT for the front... that would probably be a total 6" or better lift.
With only 2" on the back, does it ride nose-high?

Here's my '03 2wd. The wheels are a different offset so they flush out a bit, but the suspension is stock height and the tires are the stock 265/70-16 that came on the TRD package.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
4" spacer is a LOT for the front... that would probably be a total 6" or better lift.
With only 2" on the back, does it ride nose-high?

Here's my '03 2wd. The wheels are a different offset so they flush out a bit, but the suspension is stock height and the tires are the stock 265/70-16 that came on the TRD package.

So you add the front and back to get the total lift? That doesn't seem right to me, but I don't know that's why I'm here asking.

It doesn't seem to be nose high to me.

 

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No... You said it looked like the front spacer is 4".
Because of the control arm geometry, you will get more lift on the front than the height of the spacer.
I've forgotten exactly how much, but seems it was somewhere around 50% more, so a 4" spacer would give 6" lift.
I've never seen a 4" spacer for the front struts.

On the rear, the thickness of the block is the amount of lift, so you have a 2" lift in the rear.

Some people will go a little more in the front because of the factory rake... so something like a 3/2 might level the truck out nicely. Mine leveled out because of the weight of the toolbox, glass tonneau, and tools and equipment in the back.

Hard to tell from the angle but it looks like you have a 2" lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No... You said it looked like the front spacer is 4".
Because of the control arm geometry, you will get more lift on the front than the height of the spacer.
I've forgotten exactly how much, but seems it was somewhere around 50% more, so a 4" spacer would give 6" lift.
I've never seen a 4" spacer for the front struts.

On the rear, the thickness of the block is the amount of lift, so you have a 2" lift in the rear.

Some people will go a little more in the front because of the factory rake... so something like a 3/2 might level the truck out nicely. Mine leveled out because of the weight of the toolbox, glass tonneau, and tools and equipment in the back.

Hard to tell from the angle but it looks like you have a 2" lift.
I went and measured again for kicks.

 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I want to change front struts and rear shocks....If I get a stock front strut it should work with the front spacer and keep everything the same as it is now. And I measured rear shocks at around 20.5 inches. Since I have a 2 inch block on the rear do I just use a 2 inch lift shock? I found some of these http://www.autoanything.com/suspension-systems/61A6472A0A0A3769998.aspx they have an extended length of 22.75inches.....is that enough? Or do I need something else?

Thanks
 

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WOW! That's a crazy front spacer. I've never seen one that wasn't simply a billet "donut" with 3 studs and 3 holes for the stock struts.
I really hope that isn't a 4x4 unless you've also got a diff drop, and whether 2wd or 4x4, your ball joints hate you.

The proper way to handle the rear is to get shocks of the proper length. I've never been a fan of spacers/extensions on shocks, particularly since a stock shock with an extension means that the piston will likely bottom out before the axle hits the snubber. This can damage the shock or the mounts, or even break the mount leaving the shock hanging, so yes, you need a shock that has at least 2" more travel than stock.

For the front, the stock shocks will work fine, though with that crazy lift I can imagine you aren't already sitting on the jounce snubber. That truck probably rides like crap.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
WOW! That's a crazy front spacer. I've never seen one that wasn't simply a billet "donut" with 3 studs and 3 holes for the stock struts.
I really hope that isn't a 4x4 unless you've also got a diff drop, and whether 2wd or 4x4, your ball joints hate you.

The proper way to handle the rear is to get shocks of the proper length. I've never been a fan of spacers/extensions on shocks, particularly since a stock shock with an extension means that the piston will likely bottom out before the axle hits the snubber. This can damage the shock or the mounts, or even break the mount leaving the shock hanging, so yes, you need a shock that has at least 2" more travel than stock.

For the front, the stock shocks will work fine, though with that crazy lift I can imagine you aren't already sitting on the jounce snubber. That truck probably rides like crap.
Again I bought the truck this way....Not my doing....I got such a great deal on it that I dealt with the fact that it was lifted.

It actually drives really well. No problems at all really....Its just a bit bouncey at 80 going over bridges on the highway but part of that I equate to the worn out shocks and struts....Any 11 year old truck with 111k is gonna need that stuff replaced. All in all the ride is far from crap. I've driven old CJ's etc lifted and this is a dream compared to that.

I figured I would leave it the way it is because that is easiest and cheapest. Not sure the tires would fit if I returned it to stock height. NTM I'm 6'6" so it's alot easier for me to get into.

The rear shocks do have spacers or anything....I imagine they are just 2 inch longer shocks.

I will try to find some 2 inch lift kit shocks? and stick to a stock strut assembly.

It's a 2wd and yes my ball joints probably aren't thrilled....Should I go ahead and change them out?

Any reccomendations on how to improve the lift on the truck so everything is "happier"?
 

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Those tires look to have plenty of room.
The standard SR5 came with 245/70-16 (or maybe 245/75), but the TRD packages came with 265/70-16, which is what you see on my truck above.
No clearance problems at all. Yours don't look to be bigger than 265's.

The problem with lifting a modern truck is the IFS was designed for the factory geometry.
Aside from alignment issues, any lift moves the suspension components out of their engineered travel range.
Generally, you can go 2" without significantly impacting wear.
Beyond that, the ball joints are pushing the edge of the cups, and on 4x4, the CV joints are really stressed.
A diff drop takes care of the CV and lower ball joint angles.

Personally, I'd go about half the lift you have on the front.
It just doesn't seem right that the front spacer is 4" though... I wonder if the springs were cut?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Those tires look to have plenty of room.
The standard SR5 came with 245/70-16 (or maybe 245/75), but the TRD packages came with 265/70-16, which is what you see on my truck above.
No clearance problems at all. Yours don't look to be bigger than 265's.

The problem with lifting a modern truck is the IFS was designed for the factory geometry.
Aside from alignment issues, any lift moves the suspension components out of their engineered travel range.
Generally, you can go 2" without significantly impacting wear.
Beyond that, the ball joints are pushing the edge of the cups, and on 4x4, the CV joints are really stressed.
A diff drop takes care of the CV and lower ball joint angles.

Personally, I'd go about half the lift you have on the front.
It just doesn't seem right that the front spacer is 4" though... I wonder if the springs were cut?
So something like this?

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7150&gclid=CjwKEAiAx--2BRDO6q2T84_a52YSJABWAbfrF7i2ovWWayTpyJYd-0aJa5gxLlBgTGAwjHfPoeEnGRoC5y3w_wcB

Then would I leave the 2 inch blocks in the back or reduce them as well?

Would the truck sit level with 2inch inch in front and the 2inch blocks in the rear?
 

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Daystar was very popular when I hung on Tundrasolutions.

Normally, a 2" front and rear would have the rear just a hair taller than the front. Are you sitting level now, or is the rear a bit low? It looks pretty level from the angle in the picture, but when the lift was done, they may have upgraded the springs in addition to the blocks (springs are the "proper" way to lift the rear, blocks amplify axle wrap and wheel hop on acceleration and braking)
 

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Crap, just realized that link is for a tacoma spacer
At 6'6", don't buy a Tacoma :D

I'm 6'3" and it was fine, but at 6-6 I think you'd feel like you were driving a go-kart :D

I really do like my new Corolla though. The seat adjustments have allowed me to set it up for easy entry/exit, all I need to do for driving is just lower the tilt wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
OK so I am actually at the point where I want to replace the struts and shocks on the truck. I want to take the lift off the truck....so I'm going to remove the front spacers and the rear lift blocks. Also will remove the shim on the driveshaft.....Is there something else I'm missing that needs removing? thx
 
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