Thank you, I very much appreciate your comment.Have you considered any of the geometry changes due to lowering 1.3 inches, such as raising the steering rack to avoid bump-steer, and the rock hard suspension binding that occurs from the lateral control arm angle?
Might want to hang on to the OEM springs just in case.
I have a super reputable shop here in town, in fact the guy even had his own radio show some years ago.I wouldn't be able to guess at what the book time is on it. But if it was as simple as blasting in a pair of quick struts in a professional setting, the car would be up & back down again in about an hour. Then doing the alignment wouldn't be much more than a toe & go for less than another hour. No rust and 32K makes that a sexy car to work on. Swapping springs onto aftermarket trinkets could be a pain for a guy that doesn't specialize in performance parts like that. Some wouldn't even allow the car into their shop just because the bumper is going to get torn off the second you try to get it on the alignment rack. Now that I'm thinking about it, you should keep in mind that you might have trouble finding a shop that will even take the car on.
This kit, for my 2015 corolla S, is the Eibach Pro Kit 82108.140.Do you have the dimensions and rate on the kit springs, e.g. wire and coil diameter, free length, number of coils, etc.
Or a picture to compare with the OEM springs?
It would be interesting to see their solution to lowering the car and making it a stiffer ride too.
There is no such thing as "supposedly engineered". They are exactly engineered. BMWs are far different from Toyota Land vehicles. It's depressing to hear so many negative, unwarranted claims that deter folks from following their own plans for tuning. I am not hammering on you, but no one knows the driving habits of this BMW owner, nor how old or what his rods and bushings went through, etc. Again, apples and oranges comparison. After I complete my tune, which won't be that much longer, I will come back here and report my findings to put minds at ease.i bought a bmw 735 that the previous owner lowered using Eibach springs, supposedly expertly engineered etc. He sold it within a year due to the suspension hammering ride that wore out the control arm bushings in only 1k miles.
It was a terrible ride with massive bump steer and steering shimmy when applying the brakes. i went thru 3 sets of control arms and bushings and had to buy some new OEM springs to put back in because he got rid of the original springs when he did the "upgrade".
The Eibach springs used thinner wire diameter with more coil turns and a shorter free length to achieve the awesome 1.3" lowering. A shorter softer spring does not a good ride make.
i hope you have better luck with it, but i doubt Eibach knows what they are doing.
I would not be swapping out the springs, just removing the old struts/shocks with springs left on them. I have brand new springs and struts. All I need is removal of the old as they are intact. Next, the new springs would have to be compressed on to the new struts and shocks. Are you still sticking with the 6-hours? That seems a bit much, time-wise, considering everything is new, not rusted, clean, etc.45 min each plus 30 each to swap the springs. id say 6 hours
I replaced the OEM springs on my 1985 M635CSi with Eibach Pros, and I also added Bilstein Sport shocks and the thickest sway bars I could find. The upgrade was absolutely amazing, and it's clear that Eibach definitely knows what they are doing. I haven't had any issues with excessive control arm bushing wear or bump steer. Frankly no issues of any kind after freshening the suspension. I wonder if the original owner bought the correct Eibach springs for his 735?i bought a bmw 735 that the previous owner lowered using Eibach springs, supposedly expertly engineered etc. He sold it within a year due to the suspension hammering ride that wore out the control arm bushings in only 1k miles.
It was a terrible ride with massive bump steer and steering shimmy when applying the brakes. i went thru 3 sets of control arms and bushings and had to buy some new OEM springs to put back in because he got rid of the original springs when he did the "upgrade".
The Eibach springs used thinner wire diameter with more coil turns and a shorter free length to achieve the awesome 1.3" lowering. A shorter softer spring does not a good ride make.
i hope you have better luck with it, but i doubt Eibach knows what they are doing.
I'm having mine installed by a shop that does this on a regular basis. I also have all new struts/shocks and a set of Eibach Pro Kit springs to slap together, even before my other stuff is removed -- All new.I have Eibachs on my MkIII Supra. Lowered it a smidgeon over an inch. Ride quality is firm, but not uncomfortable. Although I am glad we don't have any washboard roads or an abundance of speed bumps around here. Ride is vastly improved on the freeway; no more floaty feeling over rollers or expansion joints. No steering issues, though the car's geometry is substantially different than your car's.
Used a pair of those jackscrew-type spring compressors to swap springs on the struts. Worked fine - though in the interest of safety, I ran a loop of rope through a coil and around a post in the garage in case something let go. Took most of the day to do all four corners, IIRC.
