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Discussion Starter #1
How do I drop and fill transmission fluid on my 2018 Camry SE? I watched a video posted on this site, but I don't understand the language. I assume temperature and the car being level are important in making certain it's full. Please don't argue whether or not it's necessary, I know what the manual shows. Also, have any of you found a lower cost place to order the fluid than your local dealer?
 

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As technical as it is and since it does not have to be done often. I would go to the dealer instead some snotty nose kid at some fast lube place. Most important is that you use only Toyota fluid as Scotty Kilmer advises.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
As technical as it is and since it does not have to be done often. I would go to the dealer instead some snotty nose kid at some fast lube place. Most important is that you use only Toyota fluid as Scotty Kilmer advises.
There was never a question as to the brand of fluid. I will use Toyota fluid. What makes you think it wouldn't be a snotty nosed kid at the dealership? I prefer to do my maintenance myself, then I know what I did or didn't do.
 

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From my understanding, you drain and measure the amount that came out. Then you fill up the same exact amount.

After that you remove the drain plug, until it drips to a trickle, put back the drain plug.

However, if you remove the drain plug and it is not dripping, add more fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
From my understanding, you drain and measure the amount that came out. Then you fill up the same exact amount.

After that you remove the drain plug, until it drips to a trickle, put back the drain plug.

However, if you remove the drain plug and it is not dripping, add more fluid.
I noticed he measured the old fluid in water bottles. I assume on part of your statements you mean the "fill plug", I get what you mean. Is that where the temperature comes in play? So, at "X" temperature, with the car level, fluid should trickle out the fill hole?
 

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I noticed he measured the old fluid in water bottles. I assume on part of your statements you mean the "fill plug", I get what you mean. Is that where the temperature comes in play? So, at "X" temperature, with the car level, fluid should trickle out the fill hole?
Yes, you can measure the ATF temp if you want. It would be more accurate.
 

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Why complicate it?
You looking at roughly 4 qrts drain.
Go to Walmart and buy large enough graded bowl or, drain into whatever is suitable and simply mark the level of what you drained.
Then, refill with exactly same amount.
Done. Irrelevant to temperature and other intricacies.
As usual, open FILL plug first. It may be real tough to undo, so nothing is more stupid than to drain it and find out that fill plug won't budge. been there.
Also, make sure you pop THE fill plug, not just something that looks like it. Should say WS on it.
As fill hole is up in transmission, if you are not pumping fluid out of bottles but, are pouring out of the above mentioned vessel, take funnel, put suitable length and size tube onto it solid, drop tube from the engine bay top down into the fill hole and tape funnel to hood strut. then, you can simply pour ATF into it. Just make sure that tube in the fill hole is really IN. No need to pour ATF onto the floor.
 

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Don't assume that factory ATF level is correct.

Use a scan OBD tool for temp check. If you can't check the temp, you shouldn't do the job.

If vehicle is equipped with an ATF thermostat, the tstat plunger needs to be pinned open.

https://www.amazon.com/Idemitsu-30040096-95300C020-Automatic-Transmission-Scion-5/dp/B07M94B6V6

https://www.amazon.com/Ravenol-ATF-WS-Lifetime-4-litres/dp/B00OO1GMQW


 

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Drain cold and add same fluid that comes out. I suppose if you do it every 15k miles it will compensate for dirty fluids without having to go through hell. But what the hell do I know.
 

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Then, refill with exactly same amount.
Done. Irrelevant to temperature and other intricacies.
^^^^ What he said.
In fact doing it cold would be not only less complex, but better than at temperature XYZ, since the car, and fluid, will inevitably cool off, changing the volume of the fluid.

If I remember correctly, in the videos I've seen, they overfill by a pint or so, then bring the car back up to temperature XYZ, and let the "straw" remove what's really excess.

As for me, I'd rather use the old method of pumping fluid out via radiator cooling hose, a quart or two at a time, then adding back fresh fluid, until it all comes out fresh fluid color. That method will get the vast majority of the fluid - which is in the torque converter - out.
Of course then you'd have to start the car, and let it warm up to XYZ, letting the "straw" get rid of any excess.

............ and this is what we call Progress ??
/
 

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Discussion Starter #16
^^^^ What he said.
In fact doing it cold would be not only less complex, but better than at temperature XYZ, since the car, and fluid, will inevitably cool off, changing the volume of the fluid.

If I remember correctly, in the videos I've seen, they overfill by a pint or so, then bring the car back up to temperature XYZ, and let the "straw" remove what's really excess.

As for me, I'd rather use the old method of pumping fluid out via radiator cooling hose, a quart or two at a time, then adding back fresh fluid, until it all comes out fresh fluid color. That method will get the vast majority of the fluid - which is in the torque converter - out.
Of course then you'd have to start the car, and let it warm up to XYZ, letting the "straw" get rid of any excess.

............ and this is what we call Progress ??
/
I'm glad you mentioned the straw. What are you talking about? I noticed the straw mentioned before in a post, but I missed it in the video I watched.
 

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Again, don't complicate it. Don't look for any straws as you have no dipstick hole to stick it in to suck fluid out. Maybe through filler hole, but why? What is so wrong with drain and fill exact same, that folks just have to look for some shaman ways of doing it?
There is rather complicated and Techstream involving way of checking fluid level. Who owns $5K tool? And why? Transmission runs fine - drain, measure, refill. Want entire volume? Repeat 3 more times with 15-20 miles drives inbetween.
DONE.
 

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Again, don't complicate it. Don't look for any straws as you have no dipstick hole to stick it in to suck fluid out. Maybe through filler hole, but why? What is so wrong with drain and fill exact same, that folks just have to look for some shaman ways of doing it?
There is rather complicated and Techstream involving way of checking fluid level. Who owns $5K tool? And why? Transmission runs fine - drain, measure, refill. Want entire volume? Repeat 3 more times with 15-20 miles drives inbetween.
DONE.
So true. I wondered for a long time why they had to take a simple process and turn it into something like a NASA launch. I especially question their specific degrees of temperature and I’ll guarantee you that they’re not doing it that way at the dealer when no one’s looking. Same goes for independent shops.

Ya pulls it out ya puts it back and that’s about the extent of it. For somebody who wants to be anal about the temperatures just use one of those little handheld laser thermometers from Harbor freight or anything similar but I wouldn’t even bother with that because it difference in Oil volume is going to be insignificant across that temp range. Nothing but splitting hairs really .It sounds more like a process intended to send more business back to the dealership for a routine maintenance than anything realistic.
When you look around you’ll notice that flushing transmissions is an industry in itself and that many of the manufacturer specifically forbid it in there manuals. You have to start to ask yourself why. Changing 2/3 or 3/4 of it as I’ve done since they invented automatic transmissions has always enabled them to last as long as they’re ever going to last so why start splitting hairs now. These aren’t even CVTs, just regular automatic transmissions with a couple of more gear stuck in, not rocket science.

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Discussion Starter #20
I bought a 2012 Honda Civic new, the last of the regular automatics. Around 30K it developed a shudder when it shifted from 1st to 2nd. Under warranty, I took it to the dealer and they never felt the shudder but said the fluid was dark. I dropped/filled the fluid and every 10k after that. I sold the car around 90K, the fluid was red and the shudder never happened again. Drop and fill was simple on that car because it had a drain and a dipstick that doubled as a fill cap. I had previously lost two transmissions on a 92 and 93 accord that I never changed fluid on. The Civic made me a believer in drop and fills. Will I void the 125K warranty I just purchased if I change the fluid myself? I guess not if they don’t know I did it. Maybe I should just plan on selling the car at 125K and don’t worry about it. But, we really like the car and may decide to keep driving it past 125K. I only have two complaints on the car, the key fob sucks for distance and the little storage door flops down by itself at my left knee.
 
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