Toyota Nation Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
180 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
If there's one thing I wish that would've been improved on this engine, it's the placement of the oil filter. Not only is it right below a very hot heat shield, but it's also angled nicely to allow maximum oil spillage onto the motor mount and surrounding areas.

Besides a remote filter mount, anyone have any tricks they use to make it less messy? If I loosen the filter a little bit will that still dribble oil over the mount?
 

·
Premium Member
1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
good question!

Can you remove the undercover, and then slip a small pan between the bottom of the filter and the top of the subframe to catch the spill?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
180 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I feel like oil changes should be fairly quick though, and having to remove the undercovers would be a bit of a pain. At this point I'm wondering if anyone has tried just slightly loosening the filter and leaving it like that till the rest of the oil drains out in the hopes that most of the oil inside the filter has already drained out as well, want to know how effective that is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Loosen the filter an wait, a long time. After a couple hours, the filter should drain down. It's not the most convenient method.
 

·
Registered
1995 Camry LE Wagon
Joined
·
4,751 Posts
Hate to say it, but remote mount is the best solution. You could mount the filter in the up position which would be less spillage and would allow you to pre-fill the new filter.
 

·
Premium Member
1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
buying filters with the anti-runback valve (Toyota OEM has it, Mobil 1 filters have it, some cheap ones do not) would help with the spillage, too
 

·
Camreee
'99 Auto V6 Camry
Joined
·
419 Posts
My filter is still in the stock location except 1.5 inches further from the block, I'm not sure if there is room for this with stock manifolds, I used to let it drip down before and burn off.

I have to be super careful changing mine now so it doesn't get on the header wrap, or else I have to stand there with a fire extinguisher for 10 minutes while it smokes off.

I've only changed it a few times since adding headers but what's worked has been totally wrapping the filter in cheap shop rags or towels and then basically holding a trash bag closed around it all and grubbing the rags through the bag to unscrew it.

Once the filter was loosened I'd also hold a rag against the block right under the filter gasket, above the motor mount for any dribbles the rags don't catch. This basically contained all filter oil leaks to the rags/trash bag.

I figure it's just part of the cost of an oil change now. Walmart sells those red 14x14 shop rags for 25 cents each and it only takes 3-4 rags to totally drip proof the filter removal.


As already mentioned remote mounting the filter to a vertical position will be best, you could also look into a block mount L adapter and see if the filter will fit vertically in the stock location.
 

·
short-throw dipstick
Joined
·
6,218 Posts
Not 3VZ, but similar on my 1MZ - I've been ruminating on retrofitting the catcher/cup below the filter on a 3MZ. It's a cup with a hole, and you can wedge a small funnel right below it. As long as you don't take the filter off a 3MZ too quickly (in which case the flow overwhelms the little ramp and it messes like a 1MZ/3VZ), it goes into the cup, drips out the hole into your funnel, and I'm assuming one would have placed a pan right under that. Clean, clean, clean.
 

·
Camreee
'99 Auto V6 Camry
Joined
·
419 Posts
I wonder if one of those larger long funnels would fit through one of the skid plate holes and encapsulate the filter at the same time. If you can find one with a wide enough mouth to fit the filter inside of; you could probably cut the end of one to length and get it to jam nicely into the skid plate and drain it directly to a catch pan.
 

·
short-throw dipstick
Joined
·
6,218 Posts
I got a different suggestion: Form a Funnel – No More Messy Oil Changes

...I think it would still be messy but these work great for a lot of other confined-space applications. Basically a sheet of lead covered in neoprene.

I wonder if one of those larger long funnels would fit through one of the skid plate holes and encapsulate the filter at the same time. If you can find one with a wide enough mouth to fit the filter inside of; you could probably cut the end of one to length and get it to jam nicely into the skid plate and drain it directly to a catch pan.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Camreeeee

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,759 Posts
Here’s a thread from the DIY sticky about it. Some good suggestions in there about running a hose out the hole in the motor mount.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Camreeeee

·
Registered
Joined
·
180 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
hmmmmmmmmm...that thread one guy was saying he doesn't jack up the car and doesn't get a mess using OEM filters, I did notice that the mechanic replaced my recently installed (~3000 km on clock) OEM filter for a Toyo branded one which, when I did the oil change last weekend, was what caused me to make this post because oil gushed out of the filter like a waterfall. That was fun cleaning up the driveway and stopping the oil from getting into the nearby drain.

The 3VZ doesn't appear to have the little drain hole in the mount that the 1MZ does, I remember someone made their own remote filter mount by grabbing another bracket sub assembly (15671-62020, camry catalogue shows 15671-62030 for some reason) that toyota sticks on the 3VZ-FEs to get the filter out of the way of the front exhaust pipe, sawing it in half and sticking on some barb adapters but at this point I don't have the tools to cut through steel/aluminium/whatever metal it is, although it'd be a sick DIY mod for sure.
 

·
Camreee
'99 Auto V6 Camry
Joined
·
419 Posts
You could cut an entire engine in half with enough hacksaw blades; with proper technique you could probably do it in a day for $5 worth of blades.

Plus you get jacked firearms.
 

·
Premium Member
1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
all of those linked threads above seemed to deal only with the 1MZ

Out of curiosity, I took a close look at my 3VZ (a dirty spare I've got lying around):

306103


306104


As you can see, the adaptor is clearly holding the filter above and to the side of where the engine block originally placed it (not sure why, probably the oil pump vs. the front engine support, the shiny circles below the filter are where that engine support goes), and the adaptor has a pair of threaded inserts visible in the first photo above, probably meant for an optional external oil cooler plumbing.

It seems to me that it would be easy to take this apart, study how it works, and then use those oil cooler ports to install a remote filter (maybe machine up a plate to cover where the original filter went, or just leave a filter there, with its internals removed, or remove the entire filter adaptor and then machine up something that would go over the original engine block hole, below and to the side of the filter, with a pair of ports in it for a remote setup.
 

·
Premium Member
1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
What I learned today:

Yet another win for the 3VZ (over the 1MZ). This fuel filter adaptor already has everything needed to add an oil cooler (no need, unless a turbo has been fitted), or a remote oil filter (if one wants that).

Here's the block after removing the bracket.
The 3 holes below and to the left of it are for the front engine mount, the 4th hole to the left, near the dip stick tube is for the oil pressure sender. The 5th (dirty) hole above those is unused. Just at the top of this photo is visible a half of a shiny stud, that's the 4th oil filter bracket mounting point:
306108


here's the bracket, with the front engine mount below it, as when installed, oil filter mounting face facing us. You can see the big rubber umbrella Toyota put over that engine mount, to protect it from spilled oil:
306109


Here's the backside of the oil filter bracket. Note there are 2 O-rings where it mates to the engine block: 90301-68004, basically an o-ring from an oil filter, around the perimeter and a 3mm dia O-ring, 19.5 ID, which goes around the port in the center (the OEM part is a sub-assembly with a steel retaining collar for ease of on-line assembly, which is not available, but it looks like a regular O-ring 3mm dia, 19.5ID could fit there and just be very careful during assembly).
306110


Here is the oil filter fitting face:
306111


And here are those two ports, threaded M16x1.5.

The lower port is direct from the oil pump (the "IN" of the oil filter, at its center).
The upper port is connected to the "OUT" of the oil filter:
306113
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
180 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
As you can see, the adaptor is clearly holding the filter above and to the side of where the engine block originally placed it (not sure why, probably the oil pump vs. the front engine support, the shiny circles below the filter are where that engine support goes)
I thought the adapter was offset away from the block to allow somewhat easier removal of the oil filter since there's a pretty hot heat shield right above it assuming that hasn't been removed.

I wonder if there are cap off adapters for that little adapter to divert the flow of oil from the default location to a remote mount connected via those two M16x1.5 threads...

I might get an MLS gasket and head studs so an oil cooler might be due for a nice little turbo setup lol

edit: also what's under the rubber umbrella for the motor mount? Just curious as to what it looks like
 

·
Camreee
'99 Auto V6 Camry
Joined
·
419 Posts
Home Depot has everything you would need - lines, line fittings, t-adapters to add gauges, check valves to get it flowing in the right direction, caps, and Teflon tape, plates for mounting, drill bits, taps, bolts, and nuts.

Prices are cheaper than any kits put together for cars too. You would probably be looking at $50-100 for an oil cooler and $100-150 for lines and fittings and filter mounting hardware if you do everything yourself.
 

·
Premium Member
1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
"what's under the rubber umbrella for the motor mount?"

It really won't lift up to reveal much, but I remember reading somewhere that the bottom has a rubber cone, filled with a liquid, like propylene glycol (salad dressing) and that cone is pressed on from above by a mating steel cone attached to the engine, so the whole thing is a fluid damped spring made of rubber and steel parts. The various parts are vulcanized together into a single assembly, so it won't fall apart during handling. The umbrella on top is just to prevent spilled motor oil getting onto the tuned rubber parts inside.

Interesting that they have this liquid damped, rubber spring in compression, and right beside it, is a shock absorber. I guess they work together to dampen out the V6.

I could be wrong, but I think this is Toyota's first transverse V6 engine. Possibly the 3VZ is Toyota's first V6 period? I'm wrong, the 2.0L 1VZ V6 came first, and then the 2.5L 2VZ in the Gen2 Camry / ES250.

According to what I've found, the 3VZ was the first time Toyota used a liquid filled engine support in a transverse V6 (the 2VZ had used a conventional rubber support, similar to the rear and the "dog bone" rubber isolators).

The liquid damped engine support was simplified for the 1MZ, but, interestingly, the shock absorber is the same part number (3VZ, 1MZ).
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top