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I was driving down Hollywood Blvd when some jackass decides to drive on the wrong side of the road in front of me. I slammed my breaks and swerved around him, then went on my way. Afterwards, I noticed that my ABS light came on. Any way to reset it WITHOUT having to go to the dealer? All threads I've found regarding this issue involve bringing it in to the dealer/auto shop. (I'm not under warranty anymore btw) :sosad:
 

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Maybe try disconnecting the battery for a bit? Also, is the red brake light on as well? If so, it may mean that the fluid is low.
 

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06 Taco 4x4 TRD
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Mjonags,

You can't just clear the code by disconnecting the battery. There is a procedure, I'll get to that in a minute.

Generally if the ABS light is on, your ECU is trying to tell you it thinks you have a problem. You should check it out. Otherwise, it will just come on again. The good news is, you can start the process the same way you'll eventually clear the code.

First, connect terminal 4 and 13 of the OBD-II socket (under the dash in front of your left knee) with a jumper wire. (Those are the 4th from the left on the top and the fifth from the left on the bottom.)

Turn the ignition to on. You'll notice lots of flashing lights, but just pay attention to the ABS light. Normally, it should be rapidly and steadily flashing, twice per second. If it has stored a trouble code, it will instead be flashing a pattern that will coding a two-digit number. There may be more than one code being flashed out. It will just repeat the code over and over, so you have plenty of time to figure it out and write it (them) down.

NOW you can clear the codes. Just tap the brakes rapidly 8 or more times, about two taps per second. You don't have to jam on the brakes, just tap them enough to blink the brake lights. If you're successful, the ABS light should return to its normal fast blinking. Now remove the jumper wire, and finally turn off the key.

Now when you turn on the key, the ABS light should just do its normal light for three seconds and go off. If it comes back on, you still have a problem

You can look up the trouble code in the online tacoma FSM that you can find by googling, or you can post the code here and ask. Have fun!
 

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Pliz Advice

Mjonags,
How to go about in OBD 1
:confused:

You can't just clear the code by disconnecting the battery. There is a procedure, I'll get to that in a minute.

Generally if the ABS light is on, your ECU is trying to tell you it thinks you have a problem. You should check it out. Otherwise, it will just come on again. The good news is, you can start the process the same way you'll eventually clear the code.

First, connect terminal 4 and 13 of the OBD-II socket (under the dash in front of your left knee) with a jumper wire. (Those are the 4th from the left on the top and the fifth from the left on the bottom.)

Turn the ignition to on. You'll notice lots of flashing lights, but just pay attention to the ABS light. Normally, it should be rapidly and steadily flashing, twice per second. If it has stored a trouble code, it will instead be flashing a pattern that will coding a two-digit number. There may be more than one code being flashed out. It will just repeat the code over and over, so you have plenty of time to figure it out and write it (them) down.

NOW you can clear the codes. Just tap the brakes rapidly 8 or more times, about two taps per second. You don't have to jam on the brakes, just tap them enough to blink the brake lights. If you're successful, the ABS light should return to its normal fast blinking. Now remove the jumper wire, and finally turn off the key.

Now when you turn on the key, the ABS light should just do its normal light for three seconds and go off. If it comes back on, you still have a problem

You can look up the trouble code in the online tacoma FSM that you can find by googling, or you can post the code here and ask. Have fun!
 

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Worked for me! Light came on last night on the way home from work and wouldnt go out. Google from my phone, found this and cleared this morning. All is good.

Thanks!!!:clap:

Stupid lights anyway
 

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Was a 05 Tacoma 4x4 DC LB
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Just to update MJ's thread with what his problem was for future reference here on TN because this just might come up with one of us in the future:

Hey Jim!
Yeah my light is still on. But it's a bigger problem than what I anticipated. I used this thread to diagnose:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...ml#post5420260

Then found out I need a whole new ABS actuator
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...about-abs.html

So I just say screw it and not deal with it
I'm also going to add this link (which is linked in one of those threads) and is sort of unrelated to MJs situation. But man oh man, the damage that can occur from jump starting a vehicle!

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/178885-abs-actuator-motor-assembly-failure.html
 

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Bummer. Yesterday, out-of-the-blue both my ABS and Skid Control lights came on together and stayed that way for about 10 miles. I finally pulled over and turned off the truck, restarted it and no lights. As soon as it warms up here today I'll put the scan tool on it and see if anything is stored.
 

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Bummer. Yesterday, out-of-the-blue both my ABS and Skid Control lights came on together and stayed that way for about 10 miles. I finally pulled over and turned off the truck, restarted it and no lights. As soon as it warms up here today I'll put the scan tool on it and see if anything is stored.
^^ So, it looks like its the good old C1249 code, Open in Stop Light Switch Circuit.

According to the FSM this can be anything from high resistance in the stop light switch, to a defect in the combination meter, to high resistance in a fuse, to a blown skid control unit. The FSM also says the Skid Control/Traction Control light is also lit when this code appears.

No lights on at the moment. I think I'll look at the easy stuff first and wait to see if it reappears. If anyone has seen this code I'd appreciate a chime in as to what it was for you. Not going to be a happy camper if the skid unit is shot...
 

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Update!

Ok. So I tried the easy stuff first. When I got to the stoplight switch it was showing "scratchy" resistance and continuity on the scope and VOM meters.

I took it apart. The contacts were all burned up from electrical arcing. Guess what? On el cheapo Tacos they ditched the brake light relay and routed the current directly through the switch. Nice touch. Looks like this is possibly going to be a 30k maintenance item on my truck.

Toyota engineers conversation on how to further cut costs on lower level trucks: "Relay? We ain't got no relay. We don't need no stinkin' relay."
 

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Mjonags,

You can't just clear the code by disconnecting the battery. There is a procedure, I'll get to that in a minute.

Generally if the ABS light is on, your ECU is trying to tell you it thinks you have a problem. You should check it out. Otherwise, it will just come on again. The good news is, you can start the process the same way you'll eventually clear the code.

First, connect terminal 4 and 13 of the OBD-II socket (under the dash in front of your left knee) with a jumper wire. (Those are the 4th from the left on the top and the fifth from the left on the bottom.)

Turn the ignition to on. You'll notice lots of flashing lights, but just pay attention to the ABS light. Normally, it should be rapidly and steadily flashing, twice per second. If it has stored a trouble code, it will instead be flashing a pattern that will coding a two-digit number. There may be more than one code being flashed out. It will just repeat the code over and over, so you have plenty of time to figure it out and write it (them) down.

NOW you can clear the codes. Just tap the brakes rapidly 8 or more times, about two taps per second. You don't have to jam on the brakes, just tap them enough to blink the brake lights. If you're successful, the ABS light should return to its normal fast blinking. Now remove the jumper wire, and finally turn off the key.

Now when you turn on the key, the ABS light should just do its normal light for three seconds and go off. If it comes back on, you still have a problem

You can look up the trouble code in the online tacoma FSM that you can find by googling, or you can post the code here and ask. Have fun!
Solid abs light
checked code by jumping a while back and it indicated bad left rear sensor. Purchased sensor, resistance is different form the old one, so that indicated something different.
Changed it out, jumped 4/13
put ignition to on
abd flashes 3 times slow, then 4 times slow repeat.
tap brakes 8 times pull jumper turn off ignition.
start
abs light stays solid.( i forget what that flas pattern means( may be the same, left rear sensor..could it be the harness? where does the abs sensor connect under the hood?


any ideas?
 

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06 Taco 4x4 TRD
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You are still flashing the 34 code that says LR speed sensor malfunction. First, I want to confirm you reset the code. After you jump the OBD-II socket and pump the brakes the right way, the code shouldn't flash out slowly any more, it will be a constant fast flashing of about 2 per second. Make sure you get that before you quit and pull the jumper, keep trying by pumping faster or slower and there is no harm in pumping more than 8 times. Once reset, you can pull the jumper, and turn off and on the ignition and the ABS light should go off after 3 seconds. It shouldn't get set again until you drive a bit, although there may be some immediate triggers in there somewhere. That would probably indicate a harness problem, I think.


And you're right, I'd check the harness next. Check for visible damage under the truck and hood first, then do some continuity testing. The connector under the hood is a large 46-pin one, it is on the ABS pump in the right rear of the engine bay, or if you have VSC, it will be on the master cylinder at the left rear. Disconnect the connector under the hood and under the rear of the truck, you should get continuity between 15 and 16 of the big one under the hood (top right two pins, holding it so the big pins are to the left) with the top two pins at the rear, respectively. They also should NOT have continuity with ground. Then plug the big connector back in, turn on the ignition, and check for voltage at pin 2 (top right) under the truck. Should also have voltage at pin 4, bottom right, that's the right side sensor. Voltage should be in the 7.5-12 range.


If both of those things check out, you might have a bad replacement part, the easiest thing to do will be to bribe a friend with a Tacoma into swapping his out with yours, reset the code and see if it works. If not, I'd suspect the ABS actuator itself, not a cheap part, so I hope you find something before that step.


Good luck!
 

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thanks for the reply i am going to go through the reset process again and make sure Ive don't that correctly, by pumping the brake i merely need to activate the switch correct i don't need to pump the pedal to the floor?

Is there any trick to reinstalling the abs sensor or does it just push in and get tightened down, i want to make sure it does need to be placed one way and turned in so to speak.

Ive got an analog meter is there any specific numbers i should be seeing on either a good or bad sensor itself as a baseline?
This is a base model Tacoma, i don't have VSC, by right rear you mean standing in front looking at the engine bay i presume ( i am a novice with this stuff really)

i also dont really understand the perspective of top and left/rightof the 46 pin, maybe it will be obvious when i look at it. ill check back.
Again , thanks
 

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thanks for the reply i am going to go through the reset process again and make sure Ive don't that correctly, by pumping the brake i merely need to activate the switch correct i don't need to pump the pedal to the floor?

Is there any trick to reinstalling the abs sensor or does it just push in and get tightened down, i want to make sure it does need to be placed one way and turned in so to speak.

Ive got an analog meter is there any specific numbers i should be seeing on either a good or bad sensor itself as a baseline?
This is a base model Tacoma, i don't have VSC, by right rear you mean standing in front looking at the engine bay i presume ( i am a novice with this stuff really)

i also dont really understand the perspective of top and left/rightof the 46 pin, maybe it will be obvious when i look at it. ill check back.
Again , thanks
Yes, a light touch on the pedal is all you need.
Installing the sensor is easy, just make sure it is seated flat against the mating surface. Pretty foolproof for the rears.
I don't know about standing resistance of the sensors themselves, that's really not how they work. It's a Hall effect device, if you know what that is.
Right is always passenger side on a vehicle. Rear is toward the tailgate.
Pin numbering is always tough, but you can try multiple pins until you get it right.
Good luck!
 

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Have same problem reset 6 times now . When the mechanic installed new bearing the back plate was installed wrong and the ABS sensor is now at the bottom instead of the pointing towards the back of the truck. Would this cause the ABS light not to reset as the sensor is not in the original position
 

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I just changed out my abs actuator and now the abs light is staying on. Do I need to go through the 4-13 jumper to reset the light?
 

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I just changed out my abs actuator and now the abs light is staying on. Do I need to go through the 4-13 jumper to reset the light?
Bodiddle 1, :welcome:
First, please tell us a little more detail about the year and trim level of your truck, and what you did, if anything, after replacement? This will help narrow thing down. Also are any other lights besides the ABS on and why did you decide to replace the actuator?
 

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I am having the same problem with my 2006 Tundra. I jumped pins 4 and 13 and got code 33. Replaced the right rear ABS sensor, jumped pins 4 and 13, and pressed brakes quickly for 2 minutes. ABS light went off while pressing brakes, but came back on and flashed code 33 when I stopped pressing brakes. Disconnected jumper and measured resistant across right rear ABS sensor. It was around 1000 ohms. Next I turned the ignition to on and measured approximately 0.7 v across the ABS sensor. I reconnected the jumper wire to pins 4 and 13 and tried to reset the ABS by pressing the brakes rapidly and slowly. When I stopped pressing the brakes, ABS code 33 reappeared. I am lost and cannot resolve this issue.
 
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