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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys i need some help on removing my front and rear disc brake for machining.
In order to take the disc out i need to remove the lower and upper Torque Plate right?
Also i find it very hard to pull the disc out seem to me that the disc on my Gen 3 Camry so difficult to take out.
Last time i even use a general purpose puller BUT with no luck.
So just wondering if someone had a pic of how it can be done???
Cheers :)
 

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There is no substitute.
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The rotors are only held on by the caliper bracket... there's no screw to remove. Just unscrew the caliper then unscrew the bracket and it'll free your rotor.
 

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94_v6_camry:

What you need to do is to get two metric bolts that will thread into the machined holes on the face of the disc . Make sure that the vehicle is securely supported and the emergency brake is off. Thread the bolts into the threaded holes to "press" off the disc, do this fairly evenly or the disc will cock and it's just that easy!:)
 

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I'm a Mac
DD - 94 Mitsu 3000GT
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are you guys talking about hondas or something???? i know accord brakes are stupid, but ours are so easy i could change all 4 in an hour...

remove the wheel
remove the caliper bracket (2 17?mm bolts in the rear behind the rotor.
remove the rotor...
if you cant get it loose, hit it with a hammer (it is rusted on)
if you cant get it off, use some penetrating lubricant, and hit it harder...
if you still cant get it off, you have to take the WHOLE hub off, and take that to a machine shop to have him get the rotor off...
 

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I've had some bad luck with rusted on rotors, so I can provide some more details. The above advice is sound.

I would use a rubber mallet instead of a hammer. And a lot of WD40. If this doesn't work with reasonable effort, there are two holes in your rotor that you thread M8 (maybe M7) hex head screws through to pop the rotor off. Just thread them in evenly a half turn or so at a time and it will pop off (or crack in half). :D

Always had luck with those screws. I have however seen someone on this forum show pics of a rusted on/cracked in half rotor.
 

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TN Pussy Man
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mike787 said:
94_v6_camry:

What you need to do is to get two metric bolts that will thread into the machined holes on the face of the disc . Make sure that the vehicle is securely supported and the emergency brake is off. Thread the bolts into the threaded holes to "press" off the disc, do this fairly evenly or the disc will cock and it's just that easy!:)
what he said, and if you're still using the stock discs, then the bolt from the bottom of the caliper from the rear brakes will fit into the holes on the face of the discs....nice and easy....:thumbup:
 

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I'm a Mac
DD - 94 Mitsu 3000GT
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true... use PB Blaster. that stuff with all the messy writing and crazy pictures on the can... yeah, black and white and yellow. GOOD STUFF. thats the best penetrating lube on the market. WD40 is not a penetrating lubricant. it wont really help you seperate a rusted piece.
 

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Actually WD40 *is* a penetrating lubricant and is at least advertised for use on rusted pieces.

http://www.wd40.com/Brands/wd40_product_info.html

That being said, it may not be the best, but almost everyone has a can of it. I've never used PB Blaster, but what makes you say it's the "best penetrating lube on the market"? Ref? Link? I've always wondered whether or not I should buy a can of Liquid Wrench (or PB Blaster).
 

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I'm a Mac
DD - 94 Mitsu 3000GT
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if you bought a can you would see... its very thick, and it soaks right into the rusted part... liquid wrench is not half as good. wd-40, although everyone has a can, is not half as good as liquid wrench. wd-40 is useful for easy application on door hinges, and many other moving parts. just dont use it where it can get too dirty. wd tends to pick up a ton of dust, dirt, and other garbage...
 
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