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spin turbo hammy... SPIN!
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2,849 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First… blah blah blah, I take no responsibility for the info or you messing up your camry by attempting any of this lol, do not get yourself into a project you can’t finish or can’t afford if you blow a motor… $$$

That said I would like to post this – since it helped me in building my turbo up – but really the majority of all information was from carl @ www.speed-source.net who is a master Toyota builder haha… he did all the fab work, and also jeff did a lot of parts finding before i bought the car, thanks to both!

I wanted to pull together REAL turbo camry info - to try and kill some of the repetitive questions we get and speculation on the setup...

But anyways, I need to first say that a lot of this post came from the base on www.mr2oc.com (with permission from the admin) – I DID NOT WRITE IT ALL UP, so do not give me all the credit - i wanted to pass it on (i did edit a pretty good amount though) ... thanks to all contributing members on the community at mr2oc, and Bill Strong for letting me use it... I edited what i could to adjust for the camry guys, but the mr2oc boards are great for these turbo projects – to look and see what a lot of other people did on the 5sfte on the MR2s… lots more R&D than gets posted here…

To find the original post is under the MKII board – under hybrids, and building the 5sfte sticky…

This is not the cheap route to a 5sfe turbo in my book... i do not understand the point in cheap setups, unless you want yourself to have a lot of disapointment and hearache along the way... do it right the first time, and it will last you for much longer and give you more driving time than under the car time... ever hear of the tuner triangle? There is Fast-Reliable-Cheap... pick any 2 and the third one is not going to be there...

Couple of notes!!!
- LOTS of this stuff is opinion… use it to initiate discussion and bring yourself to where you need to be on a turbo camry project…
- I am not master of this project – I never claimed to be… but I want to spread as much “good” information as I can to the camry community – since we seem to get SO MANY of the same questions over and over again on the 5sfTe…
- a lot of this post was from an MR2 board, I tried to edit what I could for us, thus there are going to be a few things that need to be changed to go with the camry – if you can’t figure these out, haha probably you do not need this information
- PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE only contribute your setup if it is ON A WORKING CAR, having a bunch of parts is a great start, but believe me from personal expirence, that things change while you work – so let’s keep this information as RELIABLE as possible
- I will be editing this post a lot, so information might change... check back
- BUY A FIRE EXTINGUISHER!!! not just a crappy little show one - but a real one, that if you project catches fire you actually have time to PUT IT OUT! of course don't be stupid, when the car is ablaze, seek cover, but you can save yourself so much heartache by stopping something small with a good unit in the car

- Here is my setup -​
– to see more you can check my site @ www.angelfire.com/oz2/teamhamster/sbc.html it is a working 5sfTE, I have thousands of miles on it – and it is going fine… others that have a COMPLETED WORKING SYSTEM feel free to add… but keep it to that, and not just the “plans”
Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil
TRD Shortshifter
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
Spec Stage III Clutch (6 puck, still sprung)
Full Race Ported and Polished Head
Metal Toyota Headgasket
Unorthodox Underdrive Crank Pulley
NGK 6097 Spark Plugs gapped 0.030
Magnecor Competition KV85 Race Wires
HKS SS Blow-off Valve
Greddy Evo Custom Cat-back Exhaust 2.5 inch
Greddy Profec A Boost Controller
Greddy Turbo Timer
Greddy eManage piggy-back
Greddy eManage injector and timing harnesses
Greddy oil catch can
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator
Under the hood fuel pressure gauge
Toyota - Lexus 2jzge injectors (from a GS300)
Toyota CT26 Turbo (WG set back to 5psi)
Generic filter (intake being made)
3SGTE Turbo Manifold
3SGTE Heatshield
Custom speed-source downpipe
Custom speed-source intercooler piping
Custom speed-source oil dipstick
Custom speed-source love
Front mount intercooler by Johnnyracecar
Lo-Tec A-pillar Gauge Pod
Autometer Pro Comp EGT gauge
Autometer Pro Comp Boost gauge
Autometer Pro Comp Oil Pressure gaugeA
AEM wideband O2 sensor and gauge
- extra vinyl stickers to give you more HP on the dyno... :)

Here is UFOZ setup, fully built 5s-fTe motor​
Fully Built 5S-FE by Pass Racing
CP forged Pistons (8.5:1 CR)
Crower connecting rods
ARP head studs (from a 3SGTE, need slight modification)
Cometic metal headgasket (OEM size)
Ported and polished cylinder head
Top End Performance valve springs
Top End Performance valves
Three angle valve job
CT-26 turbo @ 16psi
3S-GTE manifold
Precision intercooler
HKS SSQV blow off valve
Custom downpipe
Custom IC pipes
Custom catback exhaust
Custom oil feed/return lines
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Toyota 360cc injectors (2JZGE)
Accufab universal 1-1 fuel pressure regulator
Greddy oil catch can
Clutchnet Stage III 6 puck clutch
Greddy Profec B Spec II electronic boost controller
Apex'i S AFC II

Here is 5sfte's setup​
Mobile 1 Fully Synthetic Oil
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
TRD Shortshifter (Gen4 Camry)
K&N Filter
HKS Pop Off Valve
3S-GTE Turbo Manifold
Custom Downpipe
CatCo Hi Flow Catalytic Converter
Greddy EVO cat-back Exhaust
Greddy FATT Turbo Timer
TRD Boost Gauge
Metal Toyota Headgasket
Toyota 360cc Green Top injectors (2JZ-GE)
Toyota 3S-GTE Spark Plugs
ARP Head Studs
Burien Toyota 5S-FE Oil pan
Had to modify the Oil Dipstick Port
Buren Toyota modified Garrett Turbo


Here is UltraSlowSolara's setup​
He ran OBDII 5sfe <gen4 camry or solara> with over 45000 miles with turbo and i still get about 23-27mpg. The car idles smoothly and runs smooth too, currently has 78300 miles and still using the stock clutch.

dynoed 184hp and 187lb torque with 7psi (i think might had been 9psi)

Polished T3 turbo with .58 trim
Mandrel bent header
Blitz super sound blow off valve
Turbonuetics Deltagate Mark II wastegate
Spearco polished front mount intercooler
Custom Nicole plate piping and header
K&N air filter
3SGTE map sensor
Greddy oil catch can
Stainless steel oil lines, pressure pipes
Full custom 2.5” exhaust all the way
Magnecore 8,5mm spark wires
Denso Iridium IK22
RC engineering 310cc fuel injectors
Greddy E-manage fuel computer + injector& ignition harness
Greddy Profec E-01 boost controller
Custom 4 gauge ground kit with gold plated terminal
Complete fuel system modification
Custom Earl stainless steel radiator pipe
Thrmowrap heat shield
Walbro 255 lph high flow fuel pump
valve cover vent modification--> for relase pressure, it shoots oil too
dyno tunning @ autolink
Brand new 5sfe OEM oil pan (i dont like 3sgte oill pan because they dont have as much oil capacity as 5s)


From the MR2 guys….
BASIC RELIABLE TURBO SETUP INCLUDES, NOT NECESSARILY SPARING EXPENSE
I changed parts/deleted information form the MR2 post here…​
-Turbo (ct26 or other)
-Manifold (factory 3sgte is good with the ct-26)
-Intercooler – 3s is not going to work on the camry – buying a good front mount will serve you well in time
-Piping - this needs to be custom made… you can go the massive silicon coupler route, but welding hard pipes is going to make connections stronger
-Injectors (Supra NA) PART # 23250-70080 are often used – a 360cc+ will be good and Toyota has a few stock models there
-2bar MAP SENSOR(factory 3s) Part # 84420-17030
-Custom Downpipe must be made, the 3s downpipe does NOT WORK ON THE CAMRY with the location of the motor mount on a camry vs. mr2…)
- Blow Off Valve to fight compressor surge
- Boost Gauge – even though creep is not big on the ct-26, helps out
- Exhaust work to match to DP/Cat assembly, custom fab again
- Oil, Water/Coolant lines to and from turbo (3s if using ct26/mani, these can be ordered and custom fabbed though)
- tapping the oil pan for oil return – Ufoz also said you CAN swap to the 3sgte pan - if you are a non-cali 5sfe
- Misc. Rubber/Silicon hose for turbo fiitings…
- 1:1 FPR for the camry’s
- some sort of tuning management – I opted for the greddy emange, others are out there, seems like a good deal of people have the Apexi SAFC (AF) + MSD BTM (timing) to tune… this is virtal to keeping the system alive
- new spark plugs, colder heat range ( see the bottom of the post)

Options you are going to want
- Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge (wideband is what you want to tune, great investment- narrow band is not really helpful)
- EGT gauge helps for tuning also, especially in conjunction with the AF monitoring
- Oil pressure gauge (more monitoring the better)
- Boost Contoller (electronic seems to be a good investment, don’t get stupid on stock internals)
- Turbo Timer for controlled shut down of car
- oil catch can - avoid the nasty oil burn out the exhaust, catch the blowback
- Metal head gasket (Toyota 5sfe metal is good)
-Aftermarket Clutch..THIS SHOULD BE A MUST! – trust me my stage I was not very good at first…
- Building the motor is great, Internals, Pistons, Rods, rings etc. (if you have access to a separate 5s… a buildup outside the car will be good, then drop it in later after you have finished that up, so less downtime on the car)

Good information from camryman97 on the OBDII system found in gen4's​
Few things I have learned about doing this in a Gen 4 Camry with OBD2:

1. The wastegate actuator can also be modified similair to Nathans by cutting the rod in a straight section, threading it with a fine thread pitch die, and threading both ends back into a hex coupler with two lock nuts on either side. This allows you to change the length of the rod by small increments and therefore adjust preload on the wastegate flapper. Longer rod will yield lower base pressure, shorter will yield higher base pressure. I picked this up from a friend who has been running this setup on a old mazda for a few years.
2. The front bumper support needs a section cut out to accomodate a front mount intercooler. Without doing this even a 6 inch high core would hang nearly an inch and a half out the bottom. By cutting out the bottom half an 8 inch core tucks up in there nicely. Yes it is illegal, yes there is still some support, and no there is no airbag sensors around for you to hit. You can reweld a piece of steel to the top of the bumper support and beef it up even more than before if you want (what I did) it really helps to have a powered hacksaw and know how to weld various metals. A few more things need to be trimmed back to fit intercooler piping but it really isnt too bad.
- note on my gen3 - probably would have also had this problem as i have the 6inch cooler - BUT i also have the rodmillen front lip - if you have a body kit, you front end is going to be dropped down a good deal - which can accomodate an intercooler without cutting - this is a simple test, just hold up the cooler and see where it will mount - this can help you get an idea for IC pipe routing anyways
3. The ignition system is a distributorless wasted spark system which means that the MSD BTM is not an option. Also the igniter is incorporated in the coil pack so MSD's DIS-2 will not work, nor will anything else. MSD says its impossible to adjust timing on a DIS with out seperate ignitors. It also appears the EManage will not work either for this reason. I have yet to find a method of timing control besides a full stand alone which will keep you from passing emissions in my state.
4. The good news is that you can buy a Dynojet wideband commander and it sets up very easily in a Camry. I have the system installed as of today and will be posting up a thread soon with pictures. It will read A/F ratios with its own sensor, throttle position, rpms, and map sensor, plus it has a autometer gauge with built in warning light and it links up with a laptop and graphs out a/f over rpm, time and displays throttle and boost as well. It has onboard memory for 10 minutes and can be setup to control water injection or nitrous at set A/F parameters, rpm, and boost dependent. Software is very user friendly and support is amazing. I got it all for $350 which is a steal.
5. Bad news, the 97 up camry's have a returnless fuel system. Fuel pressure regulator will not work. You need a return fuel line and a fuel rail with AFPR from a 96 or earlier camry. Also some custom fittings and disable the in tank reg. Be careful when upping pressure on MR2 injectors they are designed to run at 38 psi fuel pressure, run them too high and you risk having them go static or at the very least shortening their lifespan significantly.
6. So I have been a little depressed lately, my car is OBD2 with a coil and igniter in one solid unit for the ignition. Since the igniter is in the coil I can not use the MSD BTM or the EManage to tune my timing under boost. This means I am limited to around 4-5 psi and even then it might not be safe. But after searching for awhile I have found something, the Split Second TMC1! The split second TMC1 retards timing based on boost much like an MSD BTM but it alters the crank angle sensor and camshaft position sensor signals instead of the wire between igniter and coils. This allows for the whole ignition system to be left untouched and functioning as normal. The 4 wires from the two sensors go into the unit, 4 wires come out and return to the ECU. Two wire supply 12volts power to the unit, a vaccum hose for boost reference, and there is even a wire for dash lighst so it lights up on your dash at night. Knob adjustment, low and high rpm adjustment, and reterd per pound of boost. Looks like I will be testing this out! It was originally meant for Toyota ECUs and the tacoma supercharged guys use it a lot aparently.

http://www.splitsec.com/

Good information from silverstreakin on the turbo setup and the auto tranny woes​

rebuilt ct26
3s mani
custom dp
custom oil supply and return. (interesting fact here, there is, at least in the 93 blocks, a plug that is in the fwd oil gallery. i used a fitting from an old intake and put a -4an fitting on it with silver soulder for oil supply. on the return i used -10 fittings and hoses. drilled the pan and welded in a fitting.)
using 360cc injectors with 87 supra fuel pump, and fuel pressure regulator and restrictor.
blitz super sound bov
fmic with hard pipes. shitty job, but it works
3s 2 bar map
set the base timing to 8 btdc

serioulsy that is all we did. just amazing that the thing runs so well. i drove it around enough to get the computer used to the engine in boost last week, it was stumbling at 2-3k rpm at light throttle for a few, but went away. when i was fitting the turbo , i ended up getting a hammer, and malletizing the wastegate and hard lines. the wastegate regulates at 10 psi on the money. kinda scary since there is no electronics at all on the car. as far as the slushbox tranny. if you have an aged one...dont turbo it. straight up, youll get a few good pulls out of it, then you can count it out. cause its done... remember that automatics will boost all the time, even when the tranny is shifting. to kinda go around that, terry would let off when the tranny started to shift. its just postponing the death. if you wanted to research a stronger tranny, that would be ideal, if not, at least a good rebuild would be in order. preferably a performance upgrade. i know someone out there would be able to do it, for the right price. tony has his auto tranny upgraded. or possibly swapping in the v6 camry trans.
 

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spin turbo hammy... SPIN!
Joined
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2,849 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
NOW FOR THE INSTAL AND BASIC INFO!​
A lot of this post was from CrimsonMKII on mr2oc… I read through it all and changed up stuff for what I came across with the camry install…
Courtesy of multiple members from board.mr2faq.com
5sfe Turbo install/parts list

This is from the 3sgte forum written by billwot..it is great basic turbo/boost control info: turbo basics and boost control

SOME BASIC PHYSICS
Compressors are pumps, and pumps create flow. When the turbo creates more airflow than the engine is consuming, then the air becomes pressurized. So boost pressure will rise and fall as the turbo output increases and decreases. Thats why the wastegte controls the speed and airflow of the turbo. And pressure and flow are directly related. That means you can not get "more flow at the same pressure..."

THE TURBOCHARGER
The turbocharger is a centrifugal compressor driven by the otherwise-wasted energy in the exhaust stream. It is a 2 chambered housing with a shaft through the center extending into both chambers. A turbine wheel is mounted on one end of the shaft and is in the exhaust stream, and an impeller wheel is mounted on the other end. That is the compressor end, and it is connected to tubing that goes to the intercooler, and then to the throttle body. A turbocharger is really a very simple device, and as long is it regularly fed clean , high quality oil from the engine lube system, and allowed to cool down before engine shutdown, will last nearly as long the engine itself.
Choose your turbo by reaserching.reading info for specific turbos that will accomodate your specific needs.
For the most easy "bolt on" system using the ct-26 from a turbo model mr2 is by far the best way to go.
By using the above the factory turbo manifold, turbo, custom downpipe/cat assembly, custom turbo to intercooler pipe +intercooler, and map sensor.. (the mani and turbo from a turbo mr2 is a direct bolt on/in procedure.) For the fuel system the Supra NA 315cc(360 at our fuel pressure) Are a direct drop in for our stock injectors with no need to re-wire/splice or fabricate ANYTHING..Unbolt the fuel rail take out the stock,drop in the supra,bolt in up and drive it with some tuning...

I would reccomend going witht the stock mr2 MAP Sensor (called the turbo pressure sensor in the turbo car) This is a "2bar" sensor and will read higher voltages in smaller increments to properly adjust the ECU to run the larger injector. This sensor will also allow up to 12psi of boost before have to do any type of Fuel Cut Defenser Modifications.

THE WASTEGATE
There are two alternate paths for the exhaust flow at the turbo. One is across the turbine, and the other is out the wastegate, allowing it to bypass the turbo. Since more energy at the turbo means more air to the engine, which means more energy to the turbo, which in turn means more air to the engine, which means...well, I think you get the point. The wastegate is necessary to limit the airflow output from the turbo. The wastegate isn't simply open or closed; it modulates to maintain very precise control over the turbo's speed and output.

THE WASTEGATE ACUTATOR
I changed parts/deleted information form the MR2 post here…
The wastegate actuator is simply a can with a rubber diaphragm on one end, and 2 ports with hose fittings on the front end. Looking into the engine compartment form the driver's side, it can easily be seen just to the right of the turbo compressor inlet. The hose on the left is connected to the turbo, and the hose on the right is connected to the T/VSV. (more on that later) There is a spring that holds the diaphragm in place that has a yield value of about 7 psi. As pressure builds in the turbo, air begins to fill the actuator and pushes against the diaphragm. When the pressure exceeds the spring value, ~ 7 psi, the actuator moves out, pushing a rod, and opening the wastegate.
The normal range of max boost ranges from 7.1 to 11.8 psi, according to the Factory Repair Manual (BGB). Low boost problems are almost always a result of some problem in the boost control system and rarely with the turbo itself.

On my camry – we cut the WGA and moved it over such that it would clear the lines – in doing some my “open” setting functions at 5psi – which is nice since I do not have to run such a high application on the stock internals – if you want to boost more, EBC’s are avaiable

Here is a great thread from 97camryman about how he adjusted his WGA http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t126750.html

Manifold
This WILL bolt directly on the 5sfe head with out modification other than bending the coolant lines from the water pump down aprox. 1/2in. This will also allow you to use the aftermarket t3/t4 adaptor flanges for the 3sgte..if you decide to run a turbo of this type.

Intercooler:
I changed parts/deleted information form the MR2 post here…
NOTE HERE – this was for the MR2 guys – the 3s intercooler is not going to fit on the camry without cutting the hood… a front mount is going to serve you well, but with cooling down the air is going to be important with this new setup

Intercooler piping:
I changed parts/deleted information form the MR2 post here…
The intercooler to throttle body will have to be custom made, along with other IC piping and from the turbo… It will depend on target boost on which size of piping you use – I went 2.5 inch To small and the turbo works overly hard to move the air
To large and You have the greater risk of pressure drop. This will make tuning hell.
For camrys – all that I see now with a homebrew is custom work, so either practice welding or have somebody you trust

Oil/Water lines:
I changed parts/deleted information form the MR2 post here…
The factory 3s are great if using the ct26 setup..The only mod will be to either drill/tap the block for the oil feed or to cut the tubing to accomidate a braided hose to supply oil tapped into the oil pressure sensor port on the 5s head.Pay carefull attention to routing of the feed/return lines do the extreme heat the turbo.manifold produce. I also had to have a custom dipstick holder on my camry

Downpie/Cat assembly:
I changed parts/deleted information form the MR2 post here…
Here you need a good shop to build this pipe… took my engine builder probably 4-5 hours, and it was a tight bend to get around the motor mount… this is also going to be seen – so when you pop the hood on your nice new tubro, a nice downpipe is a positive addition

3SGTE Oil Pan:
I changed parts/deleted information form the MR2 post here…
On my camry – we just tapped the 5s oil pan, Ufoz informed me that yes the 3s oil pan will fit on the camry – as long as you are not a cali 5s... if you are tapping the pan - make sure you look at where you oil reutn is going - since oil will not move "uphill" - it needs to feed down into the pan

Blow Off Valve:
I changed parts/deleted information form the MR2 post here…
This device stops the back surge of unused boost in the piping from reaching the turbo.(insert the PSSSSSt sound here haha) Pick your poison here… I went HKS SSQ – love the sounds, many others are just fine like the greddy, tial, blitz, etc.

Boost Gauge:
Self Explanitory.... watch the creep and where you are at so you are not boosting way out of your target – on temps. And air conditions you are going to see little flotation – I am between 4.7-6 psi now WITHOUT THE EBC hooked up

Boost Controller:
Since the rate and amount of airflow to the wastegate actuator control's its operation, we can increase the boost by either restricting the airflow into the actuator chamber, or by increasing the bleed rate of the air escaping the actuator. Boost controllers range from simple orfice plugs inserted into the hose connecting the turbo the actuator, to complex multi-valve electronically operated devices, but again, the all do the same thing: they manipulate the amount of air (pressure) in the actuator. This allows the fine tuning of actual boost the motor will see.
Many companys offer them from basic spring/ball types to fancy electronic ones. Just ask allen how much he liked the manual controller…

Wideband Air/Fuel Gauge and EGT:
I changed parts/deleted information form the MR2 post here…
If you are tuning yourself BUY THESE – they will keep you from blowing the motor… you need to spend a lot of timing dialing in tuning and fuel to make sure you do not have to have your car down even longer after you just did the install… it is a big temptation to rip the car right after the install, but you will be much happier with a reliable tune be it on the street or dyno

Misc. houses…
I changed parts/deleted information form the MR2 post here…
Another self explained part list. I wish I would have taken more pics surrounding all of these lines on my camry – but I didn’t and do not have time ATM, anybody else with close ups would be great

BELOW ARE OTHER OPTIONS TO EXPLORE, I DID NOT USE THEM SO MUCH, BUT FOR THE HOME-BREWING IT CAN BE GREATLY HELPFUL

BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR AND FUEL-CUT
The boost pressure sensor is simply a pressure transducer that monitors manifold pressure and reports it to the ECU as a voltage value. If the voltage exceeds about 4.4 volts (~12 psi on '91, 92' and early 93's, ~16 psi on late 93's and up) the ECU initiates the fuel-cut sequence. It de-energizes the T/VSV to lower boost, retards ignition timing, and restricts fuel delivery by limiting the injector cycle. The "check-engine" light will come on for about 20 seconds, and a code 34 will be stored in the diagnostic memory. You will be in "limp mode" and unable to boost again until you shut off the engine and restart it. No other reset is required to return to normal operation. You do not have to pull any fuses or disconnect the battery (Internet legend!)

For a complete schematic diagram of the turbo and boost control system, go here:

http://member.newsguy.com/~gtfour/technicl.htm#Turbo
Click on "Boost Control"

FUEL-CUT DEFEAT SYSTEMS
Since the FC response is programmed in at ~ 12 psi*, you must somehow eliminate it or alter it to boost above ~12 psi. Fuel-cut is initiated when there is a 4.4 volt signal to the ECU from the sensor, so ALL fuel cut defeat (FCD) system either prevent that from happening, or delay it . Some methods simply eliminate FC completely by preventing any thing over 4.3 volts from ever reaching the ECU. This includes the Greddy BCC, the Zener diode, disconnecting the hose, etc. The HKS FCD is an adjustable FCD that has one setting that raises fuel cut to ~17 psi without eliminating it.

HKS FCD installed on the MR2:
http://www.mr2.com/ARTICLE/HKSFCDat.html

Or I have designed a simple fully adjustable FCD that allows you to set FC at any value you want, from stock up to the system max of ~ 17.5. It will cost about $8 for parts and should take less than an hour to build and install. No, I won't build you one.

$8 BlackBox FCD:
http://toymr2.tripod.com/fcd.html

SOME TALK ON FUEL AND TIMING from CrimsonMKII​
some of my little edits are present
#1 everybody is SOOO worried about fuel.
#2 You all are putting WAY TO MUCH thought in ideas that are heading no where..

The issue about fuel: Our cars do not run lean when using the setup i have stickied.. They run very similar to the stock cars characteristics. Everybody puts soooo much into fuel this and fuel that when you need to really be worrying about ignition.

You ALL WILL pop motors left and right if some thing isnt done about the timing.

Mark is the only one so far that has taken my advice and done some thing to control his timing while boosting

The stock ECU has total sh it for an ignition map when used in a boosted application. This is why i broke 3 ring lands, fuel was not.
The MSD-BTM is one prduct that will help this issue, other than going full standalone.

#2
I posted the sticky to help you have a basic idea of wnt to do, it wasnt meant to be a step by step 100% perfect plan.
Everyone needs to take the info they are giving and expand on it, that is the only way to get this down to a proven,reliable science.
The stickied setup uses a larger injector to supply adaqute fuel for turboing, the MAP is used so the ecu doesnt feak out when boost is seen AND TO CONTROL THE INJECTORS like the stock setup would.This is proven so stop sweating it..
Place as much effort into figuring out your timing as you have wasted on the fuel thing and every one will benifit..

Just for proof of the fuel thing..this is a piston that was yanked out of my motor.

As you can see THERE IS NOOOO FUEL DETONATION PRESENT,AT ALL....
Now the same piston

As you can see the IGNITION caused "ring shock" and popped the ring lands..
pre-ignition and detonation

SOME TALK ON DETONATION from CRIMSONMKII​
some of my little edits are present
well again i've never officially researched this but my understanding is this :
detonation means that you too much cylinder pressure and your combustion becomes very violent...

preignition can cause detonation
very hot intake air temps can cause detonation
very lean mixtures can cause detonation

Detonation can occur without preignition though...
Pre ignition is when the mixture ignites prematurely (compared to when the spark plug fires ... ie compared to when it is supposed to ignite) ... this usually happens because you have a hot spot somewhere that is hot enough to ignite the mixtures ... this hot spot can be the spark plug if it has a heat range that is too hot and a projected electrode (or 4 of them in bosch +4s) ...
The hot spot can be the rings due to the friction ... or lack of lubrication
The hot spot can be the surface of a badlydesigned piston
it can be alot of things ...

detonation = bad burn (in a destructive manor)
pre-ignition = early burn ...may not be destructive ...but it makes detonation more likely ...
detonation can eat head gaskets, valves, pistons , cylinder walls..you name it so really tuning to avoid this is key

Spark Plugs for the 5sfte from the MR2 guys…
Low boost:
Denso IK20 - ready gapped - iridium
stock alltrac plugs
NGK BKR6ep-8 - ready gapped - platinum #2215
NGK BKR6evx - ready gapped ? - race platinum #3539
NGK Bkr6es - ready gapped - copper #3738
bcp6evx (#6323) resistorless for nology

High boost:
Denso IK-22
NGK BKR7evx-11 - needs gapping - race platinum #4685 ( what i was using)
NGK Bkr7es-11 - needs gapping - copper #2387
bcp7es (5030s ..used by supra owners ) resistorless

On my camry I am running the
NGK 6097 Spark Plugs gapped 0.030, which should be the BKR7E’s just gapped to work with the boost… since you are adding so much power to the engine – and you are probably not going to drive like a grandma, I like these
 

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spin turbo hammy... SPIN!
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2,849 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
RESOURCES AND EXTRA THREADS!!!
Anybody with more – pm me them, I will add them to this list...

From 97camryman - how to adjust your ct-26 wastegate actuator
- http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t126750.html

5sfe wiring diagrams
I do not want to take responsibility for which are correct or not – but here are some compiled 5sfe wiring diagram refreneces… buying your own diagrams from Toyota might be best…
- from an 88LE/phi post - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/Pinouts.html

Greddy E-manage help
- go to http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/index.html - they are awesome, you can get the instal manual – support tool manuals etc. etc. and IT IS IN ENGLISH!
Believe me with greddy parts – having English is good haha
- also doing a google search on an e-manage FAQ can answer some questions you do not get in the manuals

SAFC help…
- this was from the MR2 boards… I know people here are running the SAFC, I am not – so if you have where you dialed in, you can save others some headache, REMEMBER THOUGH – THEY MIGHT HAVE A DIFFERENT PINOUT!!!
- http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=121329&highlight=safc+wiring
- here is a link that vsixcamry posted, that he got on the SAFC instal on a celica, http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6271
- he also had a link on the SAFCII instal on another celica,
http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6271

MSD BTM help…
- here was an MR2 post… add to this guys who are more expirenced, again I use the emanage
- http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=82758&highlight=5sfe+wiring+diagram

Personal completed camry turbo websites
(if you want to be added, just message me)​
- myself - 4 cylinder turbo, some good pics
http://www.angelfire.com/oz2/teamhamster/sbc.html
- meisner - 4 cylinder turbo, read through his site - lots of important information and his work for the instal
http://www.meisners.net/camry/HomePage.htm
- Ufoz - 4 cylinder turbo, fully built motor
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/535237

TN Threads you may want to visit​
- vsixcamry posted some insight on how he plans to work on the 5s turbo, discussion can be found here
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t103064.html
- old thread on 5sfe fuel upgrades -injectors and fpr discussion
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t22511.html
 

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spin turbo hammy... SPIN!
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2,849 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
vsixcamry said:
no competition intended or anything nate, dont get me wrong. But here is some more info just for another reference.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t103064.html

Hopefully, we can get these added to the sticky section. This way we can give newbs a proper direction everytime we see a thread labeled " How do i turbo my camry?! LoL "
cool man, no competition felt - i forgot to add some of that stuff - i will try and add some of the links to my stuff above later, i just got a test tomorrow so i need to review for that - i can toss the links up in the resources now though :)

but otherwise, people can feel free to read the info you posted yourself and grab what they want, once you get your setup all up and running, to show that this method works, i can add it up :thumbsup:
 

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Quick Q

While researching the 3S-GTE it seems as if the motor mounts (from a 5SFE or 1MZFE) are in the proper location without modification to fit the 3S-GTE or is the Gen 2 with the stock 3S-GE an 'OEM' fit with the 3S-GTE? I have some thoughts in the back of my mind to one day build a track monster. Jon.
 

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Few things I have learned about doing this in a Gen 4 Camry with OBD2:

1. The wastegate actuator can also be modified similair to Nathans by cutting the rod in a straight section, threading it with a fine thread pitch die, and threading both ends back into a hex coupler with two lock nuts on either side. This allows you to change the length of the rod by small increments and therefore adjust preload on the wastegate flapper. Longer rod will yield lower base pressure, shorter will yield higher base pressure. I picked this up from a friend who has been running this setup on a old mazda for a few years.
2. The front bumper support needs a section cut out to accomodate a front mount intercooler. Without doing this even a 6 inch high core would hang nearly an inch and a half out the bottom. By cutting out the bottom half an 8 inch core tucks up in there nicely. Yes it is illegal, yes there is still some support, and no there is no airbag sensors around for you to hit. You can reweld a piece of steel to the top of the bumper support and beef it up even more than before if you want (what I did) it really helps to have a powered hacksaw and know how to weld various metals. A few more things need to be trimmed back to fit intercooler piping but it really isnt too bad.
3. The ignition system is a distributorless wasted spark system which means that the MSD BTM is not an option. Also the igniter is incorporated in the coil pack so MSD's DIS-2 will not work, nor will anything else. MSD says its impossible to adjust timing on a DIS with out seperate ignitors. It also appears the EManage will not work either for this reason. I have yet to find a method of timing control besides a full stand alone which will keep you from passing emissions in my state.
4. The good news is that you can buy a Dynojet wideband commander and it sets up very easily in a Camry. I have the system installed as of today and will be posting up a thread soon with pictures. It will read A/F ratios with its own sensor, throttle position, rpms, and map sensor, plus it has a autometer gauge with built in warning light and it links up with a laptop and graphs out a/f over rpm, time and displays throttle and boost as well. It has onboard memory for 10 minutes and can be setup to control water injection or nitrous at set A/F parameters, rpm, and boost dependent. Software is very user friendly and support is amazing. I got it all for $350 which is a steal.
5. Bad news, the 97 up camry's have a returnless fuel system. Fuel pressure regulator will not work. You need a return fuel line and a fuel rail with AFPR from a 96 or earlier camry. Also some custom fittings and disable the in tank reg. Be careful when upping pressure on MR2 injectors they are designed to run at 38 psi fuel pressure, run them too high and you risk having them go static or at the very least shortening their lifespan significantly.
 

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spin turbo hammy... SPIN!
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
thanks for the extra info guys... added what some of you said

if you guys have time - PLEASE READ THROUGH what i typed so i can have others correct stuff that i typed up wrong/copied incorrectly, since this was a big post to get converted from MR2OC -> word -> back to the toyotanation format :)
 

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9thGen Corolla
2012 Camry SE V6
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326 Posts
Auto tranny holds up fine, i'd be more worried about your engine handling the increased stress believe it or not. A/F is very important so make sure you tune it. Also DO NOT FORGET AN INTERCOOLER. You cannot escape this portion as without you will detonate (my flaw) And if you haven't changed your spark plugs and wires in a while do so before driving because the 5sfe doesn't have a very powerful spark as it is. I recommend an upgrade ignition system as a safety.

I personally don't think the FPR is that necessary since the increased injector size more than compensates for the lack of flow. The FPR will help with an extra degree of adjustability, but the stock pressure behind those upgraded injectors leaves it running slightly rich as it is.

Almost forgot, if you go with the MKIII supra's turbo, not sure if the oil feed and water feed lines are the same or not on the MR2's, then you can use this setup to aid with the running of the feed lines (PS water is not that necessary on the CT-26 but you can put it in if you'd like to figure out how:) )

http://www.rabidchimp.com/mk2sup_rcp_ct26oillines.htm

---He originally sold me just the flange on the turbo side seperately so you might want to email him instead of using those lines it would be better to have some AN lines made using Earl's plumbing parts...
 

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VERY NICE!!! This stuff is great!:thumbup: One thing that might be nice to add would be the estimated costs of the whole conversion. Dosen't have to be exact, just a rough estimate.

Once again excellent! Sticky for sure!!

Karl
 
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