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Thanks Bojia88 that link was helpful. 33030 was blown on mine, went ahead and replaced both Fusible Links yesterday and now the OBDII port is working, there are no error's coming up on the OBDII reader. Still not getting a green light on the start button, (no engine start) but the Check Hybrid Ssytem message is gone. I'm going to replace the other fuses shown in the link just to be sure. The 12V battery is showing 12.2V so I'm assuming I don't need to jump it. I'll let you know the outcome after replacing the fuses.
Thanks again!
Golfeus
 

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Hi Bojia88,,
Thanks again for the link, here's where I'm at now. The OBDII port now works and the Check Hybrid System error is gone as well, so that's great progress. Now it doesn't recognize the brake pedal is pressed to start the engine. I can bypass the brake pedal and get the engine to start by holding the start button down a second time for about 20-30 seconds but it's not charging the battery pack and it won't go into gear. The only idiot light on is a picture of the car with both doors open. Not much out there about this type of problem but I'm still looking. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Golfeus
 

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Trunk battery

Hi all,
I have a 2013 Camry Hybrid, and if I don't drive it for 6 days, it won't start. I have to get a jump start for the small battery in the trunk. It has happened 3 times, the first time I assumed the battery was old and had a new one installed. Since then it happened twice more, this last time I had a friend drive it after 6 days of inactivity, he said the door would open but it was otherwise dead and wouldn't start.

The dealer says that this is because there is a slow drain on the battery to keep the memory of all the dashboard readings, and if I am going to be away for more than 6 days I should disconnect the battery.

Previously I had two Priuses, and we could leave for two weeks and it would start right up.

Is what the dealer telling me correct? Have others had the same problem?

Thanks!

Paul in Fort Lauderdale
 

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12V Battery Drain

There is a whole history of similar problems with Toyota Highlanders. You can find at least one thread for it in that section. People were very frustrated with it and didn't get a lot of help or good advice from their dealers. In a few cases, the battery was replaced and things were OK but that didn't seem to be the main problem. Your experience with the Prius is the way it should be and the way it is for most people. There is a small drain on the battery when the car is turned off but it shouldn't be enough to drain the battery in 6 days. There is probably a "parasitic" drain / partial short somewhere in the car causing it to drain much more quickly then normal. If you have a mechanic you can trust who is good with electrical systems you should have it checked out. Taking it to the dealer probably won't get it resolved (but it may cost a lot anyway).
 

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This is a long shot, but here goes...

I drove VWs from 2009 until 2016, and the last 2 had keyless entry, which we liked very much. We learned, from the various VW forums, that with the keyless system, YOU MUST LOCK THE CAR if it will be sitting for any length of time, as all the electronics don't fully go to "sleep" if the car isn't locked.

Even funnier is a recent post on VWVortex, about a guy's Passat battery going dead every time he went to a VW car "show", with various VW models. Someone explained that every time anyone walked by his "awake" keyless entry car, his car was probably actively trying to read the key that was walking by, thus drawing down the battery.

Any chance those with failed batteries were NOT locking their cars? PaulFortLaud: was your car locked when the battery was going dead?
 

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12v BATTERY IN THE TRUNK IS CHARGED OFF THE HYBRID BATTERY.
iF HYBRID BATTERY IS LOW CHARGE, IT WILL NOT, LOGICALLY, CHARGE
(sorry for caps) the 12V.
12V maintains power supply to crucial electronics that stay idle when car is not driven.
hence, if you left car stowed with hybrid battery at low charge and did not drive it, do not expect 12V to be charged.
That said, folks here report having their cars stowed for over 2 months without any devices to keep battery charged or being driven.
Hence, you may have parasitic draw somewhere.
My suggestion will be to make sure that hybrid battery is left charged before parking and install a say solar battery minder onto 12V. Or, a regular battery tender. Not much expense. Handy.
Toyota manual recommends to have stowed hybrid driven for 20 minutes every 2 weeks.
I have been to HiHy forum for 2 years now and have not seen "a ton" of complaints about this issue.
 

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Ugh I hope not, sounds expensive! That means towing and being at the mercy of the dealership. The re-initializing of a module, is this done through the OBDII port?
 

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Dead TCH -after hybrid replacement - Please HELP!

For a little background, I have a 2007 TCH with 225k miles. I started getting the Hybrid Battery and VSC errors. Replaced cells two times and it worked fine for another 20k miles. Each time, the car drove fine, minus the hybrid system. Third time, I got a whole new hybrid battery (that turned out to be a mistake). The day after install, the TCH wouldn't start at all. Had to have it towed home. Company sent a replacement battery. That worked for about 6 weeks before I started getting the error again. However, this time it came with the added benefit of also shutting off the car while running which it had never done before. It even would do this on the highway. Not very safe.
Sometimes it would run fine for a while, sometimes only a few minutes. Company came and out replaced it again, but still the same issue. Then the company would no longer return my call. Since my calls were not returned, I decided to replace a cells again. Found 2 bad and replaced. Now TCH won't start at all when I put it back in. I have checked all connections. Additionally, some things in the vehicle work while others do not. Interior lights and door locks work. Windows and power seats do not. Navigation will not power up either. The vehicle will go into accessory and "on" mode (like I pressed the button without the brake), but the power button light does not ever go green and the ready light will not come on. When in the "on" mode it still gives an error about the Hybrid system.

Any thoughts on what it could be? I have also checked some of the fuses and didn't see a problem there. Please help!
 

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My battery pack went dead 2 wks ago. I replaced with a refurbish battery pack. Dead after about 15 min of driving.

2 days later , I replace it with a brand new Toyota pack. The car ran beautifully.

My advice, don't waste time replacing cells, or refurbished pack. Just get the original from Toyota and have a mechanic that's experienced with hybrid system to put it in for you. Much cheaper than having to get another car.
 

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Hmm...$27356.29 Amuhrican.
Sounds good to me, if the 10 year-old car body/interior/suspension is in good shape.
 

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An interesting video showing the hybrid battery cells being replaced on a Prius. I called the company and they said battery cells for the Camry Hybrid are available at around $1,000. It at least alleviates my concerns that my car will be junk if/when the battery fails. Not sure how much different the Camry Hybrid setup is from the Prius.

http://electronautomotive.com/

 

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How are you measuring the voltage? Are you just reading what the software says or are you physically measuring them with a meter? If you are reading the software, what condition (Ready on, ignition only)? I'm guessing you are physically measuring them yourself since the software looks at blocks.... I have replaced cells in at least a dozen Toyotas, Prius and Camrys. In every case, the good cells were all within tenths of volts of each other (.1V or .2V difference). Anything over about .5V difference when loaded indicated a possible problem. You are saying there is over a Volt difference. I would definitely recommend replacing the two low ones.

In my experience, if they don't hold voltage, they're done. Before I put some in that have been sitting around, I top up the charge to get them close to what the other cells read. The system will do it, but I worry less if I do it first. I am sure there are all kinds of ways you should charge them properly... but I have never had a problem by just hooking up a 12V trickle charger and leaving it on for 20 or 30 minutes at about a 2A rate until the voltage comes up. My charger (an automatic Black and Decker from Lowes) has a function to tests the voltage. I just run the charger for a bit, switch it off and test the voltage until it is where I want it, usually about 8 volts. As I said, never had a problem. The cells charge really fast, so don't leave them alone. Oh, yeah, and they swell when charged so I always put them in a vise with wood blocks on both sides to keep them in line. Don't know if it matters, but I do it anyway.

I have heard of companies that "refurbish" the cells. I have no idea how they do it or if it's bogus. Again, if the voltage drops too low, I put cells in. Sometimes they'll last for years, sometimes not so much, but I have never had a cell that I replaced fail...it's always the other ones.

You can clean the copper connectors up to drop the resistance, but lately I have seen the sensor wires break in some Camrys... I don't know why. The entire connector with the sensor harness down that side is only about $40 and well worth the investment. I've got one on order right now. In my opinion and experience, to really do it "right," replace the low cells, carefully clean all the ends of the cells, replace all the connector assemblies and replace all the nuts. Yep, the nuts. They are about $1 apiece and they do corrode. All of that will be around $200 plus the cells. All your connections are then new, and the battery should last for years!

Good luck!
Can you please share the link for the charger that you got from Lowe's?

Thank you
 
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