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Braille or NRG Cell battery

In an attempt to save some weight on my 2012 Camry Hybrid, I am considering taking out the Panasonic battery in the trunk and putting in a Braille (15 pound) or NRG Cell (14.5) pound battery. Has anyone done this?
 

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In an attempt to save some weight on my 2012 Camry Hybrid, I am considering taking out the Panasonic battery in the trunk and putting in a Braille (15 pound) or NRG Cell (14.5) pound battery. Has anyone done this?
A while back I was filling my tank to half way to save about 50 pounds of weight. I really could not tell that much difference in improved mpg.

After I started filling the tank full, I realized it took me 4 weeks to get back to empty. So that's two weeks driving on a half tank down to empty. (50 lb less) So the half fill tank only caused me more trips to the station for gas.

The 200+ pounds that toyota shaved off the '12 TCH is a all time thing that will help your overall mpg over the earlier model Camry.
 

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In an attempt to save some weight on my 2012 Camry Hybrid, I am considering taking out the Panasonic battery in the trunk and putting in a Braille (15 pound) or NRG Cell (14.5) pound battery. Has anyone done this?
There are a few things to consider.

The OEM battery is rated at about 50 amp hours and is non vented because it is located in a trunk. The 2012 has no vent connections if you try to replace it with a battery that has a vent connection. The Toyota battery apparently costs about $400 to replace, so you may want to consider that before throwing it away.

The TCH has no need for any 12 volt cranking amp rating. The 245 Volt battery cranks the engine. The 12 volt really only provides control power and buffer capacity. The biggest load on it is when the headlights are on delayed off. But, in more practical terms the Smart Key system in the car is powered on all the time and presents a low but constant drain. This means you need a larger capacity battery or it may go flat if you leave it parked for a long period of time - months not days. At the end of the day the capacity of the battery will determine how long you can park it. If you go down to a 10 amp-hour battery, you many only be good for a couple of weeks or so. See the other thread at the forum with the "TCH Storage" title, for more information.

What I would like to see Toyota do is go to a vented deep cycle battery and squeeze it in under the hood somewhere. It would be cheaper and make more room in the trunk. Under the hood you do not have to worry about venting. This car should not need a $400 12 volt battery. With the proper design a $50-75 one would be just fine.

This all said, an AGM type battery is a good replacement for the original. It could be much cheaper than getting one from Toyota. But, I would go for one that has at least 30 amp hours.
 

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There are a few things to consider.

The OEM battery is rated at about 50 amp hours and is non vented because it is located in a trunk. The 2012 has no vent connections if you try to replace it with a battery that has a vent connection. The Toyota battery apparently costs about $400 to replace, so you may want to consider that before throwing it away.

The TCH has no need for any 12 volt cranking amp rating. The 245 Volt battery cranks the engine. The 12 volt really only provides control power and buffer capacity. The biggest load on it is when the headlights are on delayed off. But, in more practical terms the Smart Key system in the car is powered on all the time and presents a low but constant drain. This means you need a larger capacity battery or it may go flat if you leave it parked for a long period of time - months not days. At the end of the day the capacity of the battery will determine how long you can park it. If you go down to a 10 amp-hour battery, you many only be good for a couple of weeks or so. See the other thread at the forum with the "TCH Storage" title, for more information.

What I would like to see Toyota do is go to a vented deep cycle battery and squeeze it in under the hood somewhere. It would be cheaper and make more room in the trunk. Under the hood you do not have to worry about venting. This car should not need a $400 12 volt battery. With the proper design a $50-75 one would be just fine.

This all said, an AGM type battery is a good replacement for the original. It could be much cheaper than getting one from Toyota. But, I would go for one that has at least 30 amp hours.
My 2010 FFH used an under the hood water re-fillable battery with, IIRC, about 320 CCA. It cost about $85-$100.
 

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if you really want to lighten her up, pull rear seats out. Looking at about 140 or so pounds. Which I, actually, had done in my CR-V, also landing with huge cargo area. Yes, I do know the difference between the two cars types.
Someone considered filling tires with helium.
Like Zembonez already said - what you will accomplish is miniscule weight reduction, that will save so little, that cost of this will not be recovered in years.
Better look into hypermiling driving techniques, THAT will save you some mpg for sure.
 

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Now if I could get down to my weight when I graduated high school or OCS. Boy howdy, my mileage would go up.
 

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hybrid 2009 battery keeps dying

I have a 2009 Camry Hybrid. 2 months ago my son left the back dome light on and the car died. Since then, I have had AAA jump it 8 times. Toyota said the battery was still good and hooked it up to charge for an hour. I noticed this evening my doors are all closed tight and the car is locked and every 20 seconds or so the front dome light comes on...then slowly goes off...and keeps repeating itself. Does anybody know what this means.....do I need a new battery (toyota said it will be $370) or does it need to be charged more? or maybe the car hasa electrical issues?

thank you
 
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I would say you have electrical issues. The front dome light should not be coming on and off all the time.
 

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The first step to check your 12 volt battery is to measure the voltage 20 minutes after you stop your car, and again after it has sat overnight. You should also check the voltage when the car is turned on and in Ready mode. Your manual should have some information on what to expect for voltage 20 minutes after you turn it off. For your reference I got the following voltages on a new vehicle:

Overnight - 12.92 volts
2 Weeks sitting - 12.53 volts
On - Ready - 14.63 volts
Seconds after turning off - 13.23 volts
After 20 minutes - 12.93 volts

There is a battery state of charge chart near the bottom of the page at this link that may be of some help.

That said, the interior light coming on every 20 seconds is not normal. It could possibly be an indicator your battery voltage is low and the low voltage is making the control system do odd things. Your voltage tests will tell you that. Or it could be that there is something wrong in the electrical control system and the light coming on is what is draining your battery.
 

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The hybrid auxiliary batteries are NOT good at holding charge after a deep cycle like a dead battery caused by a dome lamp left on (if it had just been sitting for 2-3 weeks, that'd be a different story)

You can, however, get a replacement battery from advance/auto zone/etc for ~$125ish if I remember right, it'll get you through several more years, and they have pro rated warranties if it ever happens again

for $120, it's worth a try - AAA only has a limited number of times they come to help you, don't they?
 

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There are two issues to consider if you replace the factory 12 volt battery in a TCH. They are both related to the fact this battery is located in a non vented trunk, instead of under the hood like a conventional battery. You have to be concerned about hydrogen and oxygen gas being produced as the battery is charged and discharged. It could form an explosive mixture in the trunk, although that would be a very low probability.

However for that reason Toyota uses a special AGM type battery that produces very little to no gas, and has a vent tube that connects to the top back of the battery.

The only non OEM battery that I know about which is AGM and has the vent fitting is the OPTIMA® YELLOWTOP® DS46B24R. It unfortunately is made for the Prius and is only 38 Amp-hours in capacity compared to the Camry original of about 52 Amp-hours. So while it will work, it will not provide as long a reserve if you leave the vehicle sitting for weeks at a time.

If you are willing to give up the vent connection and go with a totally sealed battery, there there is the OPTIMA Batteries 8012-021 D34 Yellowtop, and the OPTIMA Batteries 8016-103 D34M BLUETOP. An Optima rep on another forum confirmed these are in fact identical in internal construction and performance. The only difference is that the Yellowtop has a better warranty, and the Bluetop has additional threaded connectors that would allow you to connect the new battery before you disconnect the old. This avoids the power down and resulting potential issues you may have when you change the battery. Both batteries are 55 Amp-hour and provide equivalent or a bit better capacity than the OEM.

Keep in mind that these AGM batteries including the Toyota OEM are damaged by excessive charging current. That may have been what has caused your problem, when it was recharged. Toyota says 5 amps is the maximum. Many commercial charges produce a lot more unless they are limited.
 

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Luckily there are several options for replacement, such as the Exide Edge, from Sears, ODYSSEY has one from West Coast Battery, and as mentioned the Red top Optima.
 

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I noticed this evening my doors are all closed tight and the car is locked and every 20 seconds or so the front dome light comes on...then slowly goes off...and keeps repeating itself. Does anybody know what this means
If the car is locked and a key fob is detected, the interior lights will illuminate. When this happens, are you near the car with a fob in your pocket, or is there a key fob located in the vicinity of the car?
 
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