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Discussion Starter #1
My idea was...
Use two fuse taps with the pigtails connected together. Tap#1 would be connected to a constant circuit as proper - as is you were tapping for any aftermarket equipment. Tap#2 would be inserted in reverse, replacing the power outlet fuse, with a fuse only in the top of the tap - supplying power on to the rest of the power outlet circuit.

Other than the margin of error of connecting this incorrectly which would potentially backfeed constant power to the whole chain of circuits that is switched at accessory-on is there anything wrong with this idea?
 

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Try YouTube. You could also just run a whole new wire to an existing plug and cap off + secure the old wire . Utilize a vacant fuse to access the buss and put your tap to the hot side of that fuse. Put the tal in the back side if you can. Remember it’s NOT going to be protected by that fuse do an in-line is a critical must. If it were me I’d use ( lookup the gauge ) of high quality wire not old stuff or Chinese wire. Get good stuff from an electrical supply and make sure the tap is rated for more amps load than the fuse will stand. Nytie it carefully where needed to avoid later chafe through.
Remember that having that hot all the time could be a warranty issue. It’s also a slight fire hazard as that live wire will always be hot 24/7. Cars came like that for decades and were fine just understand what you’re doing and be careful . Youtube surely has some neatly explained videos and illustrations. I know what you mean about trying yo charge a phone ect with the car off it irks me too .



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Discussion Starter #4
Get a electrical wiring diagram, trace it out, then determine what you want to do before doing anything physical. If you just chance it, anything can go wrong. So get an EWD and trace it out.
That's my problem - I don't have a diagram or schematic, and Google doesn't seem to have one. Where would I get one? When it warms up here in MN I'd play with the multimeter and see what the power outlet circuit pulls for amperage with nothing plugged in. I expect zero and the circuit running the cigarette lighter jack only, but want to be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Try YouTube. You could also just run a whole new wire to an existing plug and cap off + secure the old wire . Utilize a vacant fuse to access the buss and put your tap to the hot side of that fuse. Put the tal in the back side if you can. Remember it’s NOT going to be protected by that fuse do an in-line is a critical must. If it were me I’d use ( lookup the gauge ) of high quality wire not old stuff or Chinese wire. Get good stuff from an electrical supply and make sure the tap is rated for more amps load than the fuse will stand. Nytie it carefully where needed to avoid later chafe through.
Remember that having that hot all the time could be a warranty issue. It’s also a slight fire hazard as that live wire will always be hot 24/7. Cars came like that for decades and were fine just understand what you’re doing and be careful . Youtube surely has some neatly explained videos and illustrations. I know what you mean about trying yo charge a phone ect with the car off it irks me too .



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That seems unnecessary - there's wiring rated for the load of outlet already running from fuse panel....just need to feed it with constant power.

I just never realized how much I charge stuff with the car off.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Toyota TIS has all the EWDs you need. Sure hope charging your devices is a potentially dead battery.
How do I get into TIS?
I don't think there's too much risk charging my phone in the car while I'm at the kids' events. It was never the slightest problem in my old car anyways.
 

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That seems unnecessary - there's wiring rated for the load of outlet already running from fuse panel....just need to feed it with constant power.

I just never realized how much I charge stuff with the car off.
yea that’s correct but the devils in the details jumpering Power around like that. It’s just easier and simpler to create another circuit that you know will do the deed without the possibility of buggering things up someplace else. Remember, since the 90 s when copper went sky high all these companies started downsizing. Nothing Is oversized for safety like it used to be so you really have to be careful these days . That’s my reasoning Behind running a new dedicated wire with an in-line fuse.
I imagine the OP if not comfortable could get an auto stereo/ customize ect shop to put it in as they so that sort of thing all day. They know well which panels pry where and how to hide things to look OEM.
 

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You don't know if something else is wired to that circuit. You need a diagram.
Personnally, I would put in something like this right next to the existing power outlet and piggyback on a constant 12V fuse.
 

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You don't know if something else is wired to that circuit. You need a diagram.
Personnally, I would put in something like this right next to the existing power outlet and piggyback on a constant 12V fuse.
That’s why I say use an unused fuse tap, nothing else there. That plug on amazon would work but there’s no disguising it for warranty reasons if you mounted it permanently . Possibly up under the dash somewhere. I haven’t looked at mine in a while under there , been out of the country. There’s always a way though.
The solar panel isn’t a bad idea either as long as you don’t mind dragging it around with you. Just check the output and see I’d it’s worth it first. I’ll probably be doing mine come spring once the snow melts . There’s nothin like starting the day with a nearly dead phone . You spend all day just trying to catch up some if you need to use it for all.
I just thought of a simple solution for phones n tablets, one of those rectangular power cubes . Keep it in the console and when you get behind on battery just plug in. That will charge your phone while your busy elsewhere


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That’s why I say use an unused fuse tap, nothing else there. That plug on amazon would work but there’s no disguising it for warranty reasons if you mounted it permanently . Possibly up under the dash somewhere. I haven’t looked at mine in a while under there , been out of the country. There’s always a way though.
The solar panel isn’t a bad idea either as long as you don’t mind dragging it around with you. Just check the output and see I’d it’s worth it first. I’ll probably be doing mine come spring once the snow melts . There’s nothin like starting the day with a nearly dead phone . You spend all day just trying to catch up some if you need to use it for all.
I just thought of a simple solution for phones n tablets, one of those rectangular power cubes . Keep it in the console and when you get behind on battery just plug in. That will charge your phone while your busy elsewhere


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That is basically what it is.
  • Vehicle > Portable Battery > Phone
  • Vehicle > Portable Battery / Solar Charger > Phone
  • Solar Charger > Phone
Plenty of variations of this that does NOT use the 12 volts from the battery while Engine OFF. May be more work but at least you will know your vehicle will start. When I was still in school and in the summer and had 4 hours between classes, I would sleep in my car but since it is only HOT it is hard to do. I could... leave the car on AC and watch my fuel drain and get a ticket... Instead I got a tiny USB fan and a portable battery and I lowered my windows instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah, I have a battery pack. I guess it's a solution, albeit imperfect.

I literally had my cell charger/Bluetooth receiver/fm transmitter plugged into my G6 for 3 years straight. A cell charger on standby draws around 50mAh...pretty insignificant.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Constant drain, but obviously it's less with nothing plugged in. My better half has 3 different chargers plugged in her Ford Flex on constant drain - iPhone, Apple watch, and work phone. Cell phone charging is pretty minimal drain in comparison to the size of battery in a car.

Actually, I believe the electrical usage had gone down in newer cars on account of tech - LED lights take a fraction of halogen bulbs for instance.
 
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