Doing a head job is hard, hard hard...I always prefer to find a wreck and just do a straight swap...not much help to you now, but I did want to say thanks for sharing your experience, you might save someone from doing the same.
Its called IronTite. Its a ceramic motor seal that you run in the rad with straight water for 3 days, then drain completly (block too if you can) let cure overnight, then refill with antifreeze the next day.
I bought a car with a blown head gasket and this stuff sealed it up for six months until I could find the time to fix it properly. I'm sure it could have gone a lot longer.
I heard about it from an old time engine builder who ran a chevette with a blown head gasket for 6 years straight using this stuff. Once a year it started to leak again, so he put in another bottle!
Freakin amazing stuff. Definatly the only quality temp fix I have ever seen.
When I tore my motor apart you could see my head was warped bad. You could see where the seal filled in the huge "gaps" between the head and the block.
I wouldn't use it as a perm fix, but if your in a crunch or stranded, this $14 bottle will get you home instead of paying that rip off shop a ridiculous amount because you have no choice.
Make sure you get the one that you add with straight water, not the one you add with the antifreeze. Read the back, you will see. The parts store should have three different bottles lined up. One you add with antifreeze, one you add with water, and a cooling system flush you use after the final repair has been done to get the stuff back out of the system. Make sure you get the right one.
One thing though. Re route your heater core lines to bypass the heater core (just for the initial three days). I learned that the hard way.
Hope you take this advice. I'm very confident it will work...it did for me, probably with more of a major leak then you too.
Thanks everyone and your welcome Sheepish, I hope this thread do help someone realize not to use old headbolt. Man all that hard work and money GONE. n I just got done swaping a E153 Too!!!........Guess I just have to wait till summer to redo everything
I want to say any kind of epoxy sealer is not going to work but I'm not sure because most people are willing to shell out the money for new head bolts even though they cost a bit. Those old head bolts wont hold very much of the torque necessary to generate a good seal but who is to say otherwise, few people ever reuse old torque to yield head bolts.
Congrats to you for trying to save a buck, now you have to tear it down again AND buy a new head gasket. Hopefully with new head bolts this time.
There is a LOT of failed HG after rebuilds. Between the TTY bolts and attention to preparation, it seems it could be avoided.
What I want to know is how many of you who had secondary failure did each of the following?
1 - Cleaned the bolts spotless clean (threads and flange) 2 - Cleaned the blocks threads removing all debris, chased threads, blew out debris repeatedly. Cleaned every hole with solvent! 3 - Ran a head bolt into every thread to ensure it threads by finger to depth w/out binding 4 - Greased the head bolts seating flange and head seating area 5 - Oiled the head bolt threads 6 - Torqued the bolts in multiple steps in the pattern shown in the manual
Skipping any of these steps will lead to the wrong torque and likely lead to a blown head gasket! In addition: use a good quality torque wrench that wasn't used a breaker bar!
Please tell your story so others can learn and see what went wrong.
6 steps, used bolts and had success_____
0 steps, used bolts and had sucess _____
6 steps, NEW bolts and had success_____
0 steps, NEW bolts and had sucess _____
copy / paste
Obviously allot of this depends on the quality of work done by the machine shop and the blocks condition before the rebuild.