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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After I solved the iratic idle problem, time for the second problem. After the car runs for a while and shut it off and come back a few hours later, the car seems to run too rich by idling super low, shaking, and dying some of the time. It stops after the car warms up. What could cause the car to run too rich? I have a fairly new fuel filter btw. It definetly smells like gas when it happens.
 

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Couple of things

Matt, Maybe you have a leaky fuel pressure regulator? Does the car crank alot before it starts after siting?

Or do you have a sensor saying the car is cold giving it extra fuel when it is warm?

Consult the online manual or in my case the one with all the greasy fingerprints.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did a diagnose when the car was doing what i explained earlier, as it was running and it died, i had the diagnosis mode running and the check engine light gave the normal blinking code that everything was ok. There is a problem but its not showing on the diagnosis mode?!?!
 

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ASE Master, now Realtor
A 1989 Camry
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368 Posts
I'm only on my first cup of coffee, so I want to make sure of what you are saying. You had the diag connector enabled with the engine running, and you are expecting a failure code to be flashed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
it sounds funny, but the check engine light would only come on just before the engine dies. could it be my afm perhaps. The diagnosis also indicated that 2 pin readings were off on my AFM. Can I clean that piece of equipment?
 

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ASE Master, now Realtor
A 1989 Camry
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368 Posts
Clean it? Superficially, but I doubt if you could do better than that.

Let's stop here for a moment.

Did you pull codes, key on, engine off?
 

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Going to rainforest, BRB
2014 Tacoma 4x4 RC
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My car displayed very similar symptoms when my cold start injector was bad, only yours sounds much more severe. If the cold start injector is leaking, it will generally be difficult starting after it sits, because of the gas that's dripping into the intake.

The cold start injector is very easy to remove & test. The procedure is in the downloadable manual in the Camry general section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
problems, but I WILL FIX IT

the afm cleaning idea was dumb as hell on my part. Im gonna check the cold start injector and clean the o2 sensor tomorrow. My distr. needs new seals but would oil on the coil cause the sputtering...its protected in plastic and it wasn't on the button at all, but then again, if its in the cap, oil will get on the bottom points and cover them...oh well. I guess Ill have to throw money at it.
 

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ASE Master, now Realtor
A 1989 Camry
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368 Posts
Cleaning an O2 sensor is one way to take a working sensor and make it flatline. If you have not proven it to be "bad," don't repalce the O2 either.

Pull the codes, key on- engine off and check the cold start injector. Go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
CSI leak

i guess there isn't any real way of testing the CSI other than the ohm measurments, cause I took it off and cleaned it. but if that part leaks, it just leaks all there is too it,. Ill just replace it with one from the yard. Now the o2 on the other hand, will be new
 

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Check your "cold start time switch" with a DVM and the specs from any manual. It's what energizes the cold start injector when starting a cold engine. It may be out of spec and telling the ECU (computer) the engine is morning cold when it is still somewhat warm. This would cause a richer than normal mixture and cause the car to stumble until the extra fuel is cleared out of the cylinders. If you have the 3SFE 2.0 liter engine it's located on a water outlet pipe to the right of the cylinder head (as you are standing in front of the car) under a brown plastic connector. The sensor under the green connector is the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor). I would check that out too while the DVM and manual are both handy.

Mike
 

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Matt,

You mentioned a definite smell of gas. If you're smelling that in the engine compartment, look over the engine closely for a real clean spot. When gas leaks it usually makes a small area very clean because it is an excellent solvent for the typical grunge on your engine. I can't argue with any of the former suggestions but I just don't understand the smell. Look closely around the injectors.

You may have more than one problem.

Kep
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
MAYBEEE, I dont know

I cleaned my afm connector and it seems to have gotton better somehow. BTW, how should I properly check the cold start injector, should I allow the motor to get normal temp and check while running? or engine cold and with key on, engine off?
 

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Going to rainforest, BRB
2014 Tacoma 4x4 RC
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MattSWE said:
i guess there isn't any real way of testing the CSI other than the ohm measurments......
Actually there is Matt, and it involves pulling the injector and jumping 2 terminals (FP & B+) on the diagnostic connector. Spec is that it shouldn't drip or leak any more than 4 drops per minute, IIRC. But don't take my word for it, look in the downloadable engine manual to be sure, that's where I found the directions for the test. Mine leaked about 4x the spec limit.

That's only one of the 2 tests, but it's the one you would be concerned with. The other test checks it for actual correct operation.
 

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2002 Camry
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Clean IAC (idle air control valve), its probly filthy.

then check egr valve, its easy, just push up from underneath on the diapraghm at idle. Engine speed should change. If not, egr may be bad.

then remove cold injector and test it like the smart people said to, maybe connect it back and see if it drips gas in a can, showing leakage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i cleaned my afm connections and the problem apparently stopped! It is very cold here in my part of indiana and it has fired up perfect for a while now.
 

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ASE Master, now Realtor
A 1989 Camry
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368 Posts
You may have a defective mojo.

Mojo replacement usually coincides with a head gasket procedure. More testing is necessary.
 

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Bullitprooph
1991 Celica GT-S
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Usually the whitish sludge on either the dip stick or the oil cap means that you have a head gasket problem. However, to my complete astonishment, the problem cleared-up after he changed the oil. He is admittedly a dumbass, so anything could have happened, but it seems to have simply been some condensation in the block.

Try changing your oil, drive the car for a day, and see what the oil cap looks like. Cold weather does weird things...it's been 35 below freezing here for days (Celsius), and even newer vehicles are having trouble. I've gone through an alternator and a strut in the last week, thanks to the cold.
 
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