That would be my largest concern. You need to pin the nut so it can't unscrew at all in addition to being tight enough to seat against the cone.
idea of (rca) roll center adjuster for ae92
so i was thinking of how to fix the ae92's roll center from over lowering the car. i have came up with this picture. the red circle is the only weak point i can see that if there where any cracks to happen it would happen there.
the cons i can think of right off the top of my head for this design is.
- not sure if its to complicated a spacer for a local machine shop to make.
- it might be to long, and thus need bigger than 15" wheels to not have contact with the ball joint.
- since ball joints spin freely when torqued, im not sure you can properly thread this on a ball joint.
other than that the theory seems to work lol... as far as fixing the tie rod's angles that one is easy. all they need is to be flipped, it might work with the T3 aw11 tie rod flip kit.
2 other ideas dealing with the ball joint mounting points are, taking it to a race shop and getting a spherical bearing welded on (tried and true way). however im not sure how well the spherical bearing will hold up to everyday road use. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_JoN9797qI...hE6KfoUz2V8/s400/Dog+3+-+IMG_0812_low_res.jpg
or cutting your spindle and rewelding the mounting points lower effectively making it into a drop spindle (might not be so safe.......).
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the cons i can think of right off the top of my head for this design is.
- not sure if its to complicated a spacer for a local machine shop to make.
- it might be to long, and thus need bigger than 15" wheels to not have contact with the ball joint.
- since ball joints spin freely when torqued, im not sure you can properly thread this on a ball joint.
other than that the theory seems to work lol... as far as fixing the tie rod's angles that one is easy. all they need is to be flipped, it might work with the T3 aw11 tie rod flip kit.
2 other ideas dealing with the ball joint mounting points are, taking it to a race shop and getting a spherical bearing welded on (tried and true way). however im not sure how well the spherical bearing will hold up to everyday road use. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_JoN9797qI...hE6KfoUz2V8/s400/Dog+3+-+IMG_0812_low_res.jpg
or cutting your spindle and rewelding the mounting points lower effectively making it into a drop spindle (might not be so safe.......).
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i once thought about this, but this will not change the roll center. in order to change or move the roll center you have to move the pivoting point. it sucks that there isnt an easyier option. like how on the ae86 all you need is a spacer to change the rca.
also regarding donald's question about over lowering. you dont have to go that low to mess up the ae92's roll center. my car only has 1 finger wheel gap, but this is enough to make my "front" control arms point at an upwards angle. also i have experianced on my mr2 what a proper roll center will do to handleing and camber changes. on my mr2 when i lowered it and used roll centers adjusters with my pillow ball mount set at max camber. i then readjusted it to -1.7 degrees of camber. i got very decent negative camber gains. with 35psi of tire pressure, the tread wear still did not reach the full sidewall tread.
my mr2 rca spacers.
I just shot technotoytuning.com an email and he said he'd make some if we can get 10 people who are interested in some 
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??? not sure what your talking about, i think youjr refering to eage8 contacting T3. im just throwing out ideas and brainstorming. if t3 were to make anything the easyest design would be to make something that can bolt up to the control arm. using a spherical bearing. this would be somthing that gabriel from T3 could easily do.
but realistically it would be somthing that looks closer to this. seeing as this design is very simple and can be easyier to maintain and change out the spherical bearing.
like these:
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Ok, this photo gives me a better understanding of what you are aiming at. :thumbsup:my mr2 rca spacers.
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Your drawing with the spacer between lower control arm and the ball joint looks like an easy fabrication. Shouldn't cost too much to get a machine shop to make some of those.
if what you mean is somthing like in my drawing.
then it wont work for our control arms. you may have made the control arm go lower, but the imaginary line between the ball joint and the wishbone bushing is still the same. thats why you need somthing that sits ontop of the where the ball joint bolts to. or a ball joint with a longer stud.
in the drawing the dotted lines are the spacer and where it moved the control arm, but it shows the ball joint pivot point not moving anywhere. we actually need the pivoting point to move.
just wanted to bump this thread and post a link to a kit I found:
http://forum.4age.org/index.php?/topic/1704-fs-rca-bump-steer-kits/
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It's expensive... but it is a solution
http://forum.4age.org/index.php?/topic/1704-fs-rca-bump-steer-kits/
It's expensive... but it is a solution
Now that would work!just wanted to bump this thread and post a link to a kit I found:
http://forum.4age.org/index.php?/topic/1704-fs-rca-bump-steer-kits/
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It's expensive... but it is a solution
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
