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Hi,
I have a '97 4runner Limited, 6 cylinder, 2 wd with 101k miles on it. On Monday, it croaked on the freeway and was towed to an approved AAA shop. Got fleeced...Was told the IAC was bad and for $725, they'd replace it with a Toyota part and disassemble/clean the throttle auto body. After picking up the truck, I later found out their story changed and they claimed they installed a Denso IAC. A Denso rep told me they don't even sell IACs except to Toyota factories. I suspect they either just cleaned out the TB, or stuck some cheapo, aftermarket IAC in there. Ugh. Truck is still idling roughly. Your thoughts?
 

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1995 T100 2WD & 1993 MR2
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File a complaint with AAA. Also they have to give you your old parts back. If it's idling rough it should be throwing a code! Pull the intake hose from the airbox off at the TB and take a look inside, MAF should appear clean .Couple years ago I bought a new Denso IAC directly from my local Toyota dealer. FWIW
 

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Discussion Starter #4
File a complaint with AAA. Also they have to give you your old parts back. If it's idling rough it should be throwing a code! Pull the intake hose from the airbox off at the TB and take a look inside, MAF should appear clean .Couple years ago I bought a new Denso IAC directly from my local Toyota dealer. FWIW
Already filed a complaint with AAA, BAR, BBB and opened a dispute with Visa. Do you remember what you paid for that IAC? It only coded when the truck died on the freeway. Engine light went on.
 

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Never heard of an IAC causing a vehicle to die at higher speeds. Typical is stalling at what should be normal idle speed.
Hmmmmm? I think I was going about 40mph when it started to slowly lose power. Towed it, then tried to start it. It did start, but kept dying immediately.
 

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Already filed a complaint with AAA, BAR, BBB and opened a dispute with Visa. Do you remember what you paid for that IAC? It only coded when the truck died on the freeway. Engine light went on.
This si very close to what I paid. Going by memory and my buying history. I prefer OEM when ever possible and my local dealer treats me right.
1995, 3.4, 5 speed, : https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem-toyota-idle_control_valve.html?Make=Toyota&Model=T100&Year=1995&Submodel=&Filter=(d=USA;1=5VZFE;4=DLX;5=MTM;7=XTR;8=HLF;0=VCK11L-CRMDKA)

Yours (I think I got most the info right)

Do you recall the code?
 

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This si very close to what I paid. Going by memory and my buying history. I prefer OEM when ever possible and my local dealer treats me right.
1995, 3.4, 5 speed, : https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem-toyota-idle_control_valve.html?Make=Toyota&Model=T100&Year=1995&Submodel=&Filter=(d=USA;1=5VZFE;4=DLX;5=MTM;7=XTR;8=HLF;0=VCK11L-CRMDKA)

Yours (I think I got most the info right)

Do you recall the code?
Thanks. Wasn't told what the code was. These guys claimed they installed a Denso, first they said it would be a Toyota part. I was later told you can't get a Denso IACV unless you go to a Toyota dealer. These guys said they bought the Denso from an auto parts dealer. Even if it was a Denso (I really doubt it is) they still overcharged a ridiculous amount.
 

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Typically a high speed stall is loss of spark, fuel, or ground, or bad connection causing one of the two above. Loss of ignition or fuel pressure, but not compression or it would never run until compression was restored (broken timing belt).
 

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Install a fuel pressure gauge in line, so it can be read while driving. Wrap a piece of insulated wire around one of the plug wires and the other end around the radio antenna, with the radio turned on to AM.

Now you can see if the fuel pressure is dropping where it is delivered to the fuel rail.

Now you can hear the ignition through the radio, it will be a constant crackling noise with every spark that travels through that wire.

Pressure drops=fuel delivery

Ignition noise fades or goes away altogether=ignition module 98% of the time, other times 2% weird crap like a bad ground and or numerous other possibilities.

That's where you need to go next.

That shop shouldn't be in business. It gives people like me who actually like to know what is going on a bad reputation even though we don't deserve it. Get on the web and find a shop that recommends what I just posted. At least you will have some indication that they are not totally incompetent.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Typically a high speed stall is loss of spark, fuel, or ground, or bad connection causing one of the two above. Loss of ignition or fuel pressure, but not compression or it would never run until compression was restored (broken timing belt).
Don't know what to say about that except whatever they did, the truck runs now. However, at times, it still idles loudly/roughly just like before. About 3 months ago, I replaced the plugs, wires and fuel filter. I looked at the IACV. It does say Denso and Toyota on it. I now suspect all they did was clean out my throttle body and IACV. Even if they did install an OEM valve, they still overcharged me $200-300! Creeps...?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Install a fuel pressure gauge in line, so it can be read while driving. Wrap a piece of insulated wire around one of the plug wires and the other end around the radio antenna, with the radio turned on to AM.

Now you can see if the fuel pressure is dropping where it is delivered to the fuel rail.

Now you can hear the ignition through the radio, it will be a constant crackling noise with every spark that travels through that wire.

Pressure drops=fuel delivery

Ignition noise fades or goes away altogether=ignition module 98% of the time, other times 2% weird crap like a bad ground and or numerous other possibilities.

That's where you need to go next.

That shop shouldn't be in business. It gives people like me who actually like to know what is going on a bad reputation even though we don't deserve it. Get on the web and find a shop that recommends what I just posted. At least you will have some indication that they are not totally incompetent.
So, even though the truck only died once and is now running, I should still try this?
 

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Get an odb2 reader or simply go to a place like auto zone, they'll read the CEL for free. Even if there is no obvious CEL, there may be one pending. Knowing that is critical in accurate diagnosis. Let us know what you find.

No sure if I read in your posts above but was the MAF cleaned?
 

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Get an odb2 reader or simply go to a place like auto zone, they'll read the CEL for free. Even if there is no obvious CEL, there may be one pending. Knowing that is critical in accurate diagnosis. Let us know what you find.

No sure if I read in your posts above but was the MAF cleaned?
They said they disassembled the throttle body, cleaned it and replaced the IAC. Wouldn't they clean the MAF as part of all that for the outrageous price of $725.88?
 

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One would hope. They may have cleaned the MAF or not. I say that because they're not near each other, MAF is over by air cleaner, IAC by TB, though logically they're all part of the intake so one would want it all to be clean, I mean they probably did but to be sure just check your receipt or ask them. I'd still suggest to have your own odb2 reader, they're inexpensive and give you a leg up on the situation to keep ahead of the unscrupulous. Here's an example of one: https://www.amazon.com/FOXWELL-Scanner-Professional-Enhanced-Diagnostic/dp/B07G3V17VH/ref=sr_1_38?crid=JDQSJG4MMK9I&keywords=odb2+scanner&qid=1575921747&sprefix=odb2+,aps,158&sr=8-38

Luck.
 

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Thanks
One would hope. They may have cleaned the MAF or not. I say that because they're not near each other, MAF is over by air cleaner, IAC by TB, though logically they're all part of the intake so one would want it all to be clean, I mean they probably did but to be sure just check your receipt or ask them. I'd still suggest to have your own odb2 reader, they're inexpensive and give you a leg up on the situation to keep ahead of the unscrupulous. Here's an example of one: https://www.amazon.com/FOXWELL-Scanner-Professional-Enhanced-Diagnostic/dp/B07G3V17VH/ref=sr_1_38?crid=JDQSJG4MMK9I&keywords=odb2+scanner&qid=1575921747&sprefix=odb2+,aps,158&sr=8-38

Luck.
Thanks! Yeah... the receipt doesn't note the MAF was cleaned. It reads: Thottle body service. Remove components as needed to access and clean throttle plate and bore using specialized solvent. Clean throttle body exterior and inspect air boot and throttle body components. Check and adjust throttle position sensor and idle speed as needed. Remove and replace idle air control valve. I was also charged for an idle valve gasket and throttle body cleaner. The IAC was $334, grand total, $725.88. :mad:
 
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