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3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
New user here. Looking for help.
We have a 95 Corolla DX Wagon, 5sp, 1.8l 7afe, 125k as a commuter/school car for my son. Battery had died and my son tried to jump it and crossed the jumper cables. Needless to say, it was dead.
Once the battery was recharged, I replaced 1 fusible link and 4 fuses and have checked all the other fuses and links. It came back to life, but ran rough, barely would idle.
I put on a new cap, rotor, plugs and wires. No Change.
I found the coil in the distributor was bad and replaced it. That helped greatly. It will now idle and is almost drivable. When test driving it seems to have a miss in all gears mostly in the 2-3k rpm range, sometimes out of this range too but not as often. And after a drive it will miss occasionally at idle but not very much.
I have tried different ignition modules and have tried a different ECM with the same result.
Is there a way to test the igniter in the distributor or the distrubutor itself.

My head is spinning from frustration now and not sure what is next. Any suggestions would be welcomed.

Thanks in advance,
Kobe T
 

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Registered
1998 Toyota Camry
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495 Posts
That sounds nasty. I've heard other things like the camshaft position sensor could cause these symptoms...
 

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Super Procrastinator
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462 Posts
125k isn't that much. I replaced my starter around 90k on my wagon. Another member here with a 93 wagon with 200k+ miles had a similar problem. I think he replaced his spark plugs and distributor and it was fine after that. Goodluck.
 

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Just play along....
corolla
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3,384 Posts
Have you adjusted the timing properly on that distributor?

Also look for other thing you may have disturbed while doing your work like connectors and vacuum lines that might have come apart unintentionally.

-SP
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update.. I replaced the distributor and it sounded different right away. Sharp crisp sound again. Drove it to work and back without a problem, other that ringing ears. Put a new muffler on it an drove it some more, around 100 miles all together.
Turned a corner from a stop sign a block away from home and it quit running. Didn't make a sound, no backfire or popping, no hesitation, stutter or jerking. Dash lights came on as they do when turning the key to start. It just quit. It will turn over with the key but won't start.
Tomorrow, I am going to check all fuses again, check for spark, recheck the timing, check the fuel pump, recheck all connections that have been messed with.
Am I missing anything else? I was running so well..
 

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Registered
1998 Toyota Camry
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495 Posts
Could have done damage to the fuel pump relay.

I recently gave wrong advice about where the fuel pump relay is, apparently "1994 toyota corola fuel pump opening relay is behind radio in center of dash board it is held on by one bolt, you have to remove the radio and the compartment below it"
 

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15 Posts
Update.. I replaced the distributor and it sounded different right away. Sharp crisp sound again. Drove it to work and back without a problem, other that ringing ears. Put a new muffler on it an drove it some more, around 100 miles all together.
Turned a corner from a stop sign a block away from home and it quit running. Didn't make a sound, no backfire or popping, no hesitation, stutter or jerking. Dash lights came on as they do when turning the key to start. It just quit. It will turn over with the key but won't start.
Tomorrow, I am going to check all fuses again, check for spark, recheck the timing, check the fuel pump, recheck all connections that have been messed with.
Am I missing anything else? I was running so well..

any updates?
 

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The Return of the Red Coupe
2010 RAV4 V6
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19,666 Posts
I'm betting on your battery posts not being tight or properly put on the battery, check them again, clean them up and try again to start it.
 

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168 Posts
Same symptoms I had when my crank position sensor went bad. In my case, the car would just randomly die while driving. I would restart, then die about 5 minutes later. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignitor. The I pulled the crank position sensor out and the magnet had separated leaving exposed wires, which gave the crank bad signals.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Problem was solved, sold the car not running for $1000. Kinda wished I would have checked the cam sensor, but not too broke up about it cause problem is gone.
 

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Just play along....
corolla
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3,384 Posts
Ahhh, the pleasure of older cars. When something goes wrong it can be a variety of wacky problems.

I bet the guy who bought Kobe's car will be talking about the great deal he got! I DO understand the frustration though. I have a Kia thats put me through the wringer!

-SP
 
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