In-Car Timing Cover gasket....who's done it?

On a 1ZZFE it can be done. On a 2ZZGE, I remember it not clearing for some reason but that was over 10 years ago. I've done it on the 1ZZFE and it really isn't hard at all. Remove the alternator, power steering pump, belt tensioner, chain tensioner, valve cover, water pump, engine mount, engine mount bracket (bolted to timing cover), crank pulley, crank sensor plug, and crank sensor/AC/VVT wiring harness from the side of the cover. Remove all the bolts/nuts, jack up the motor on the oil pan (with a block), and pry the cover away. Reinstall the cover and bolt everything back up.

I would then remove and reseal the oil pan. I don't recommend removing the oil pan initially unless you have a hoist to lift the engine from the top.

Hmmmm....Yeah I thought i read its doable but a royal pain. Im thinking oil pan gasket is probably needed too. frankly I cant tell where its coming from...need to figure out how to clean it (I guess go to a car wash with jackstands, creeper, and about ten cans of brake cleaner and degreaser.
So....the oil pan and tinminbg cover need to be done in conjucntion with one another? I dont really have a visual of exactly how they meet up.

My bad. I was thinking of 2GRFE timing covers. You do NOT need to pull the pan. The pan attached to the oil pump on a ZZ engine.

Use engine cleaner and use jack stands. Remove the front wheels to clean well.

hardtopte72 said:

My bad. I was thinking of 2GRFE timing covers. You do NOT need to pull the pan. The pan attached to the oil pump on a ZZ engine.

Click to expand...

Oh Swell....so i could do the timing cover...and then at a later date do the pan gasket? (actually i think the pan is much easier to do so maybe ill do that first). and The Toyota Seal Packing FIPG would be correct for the oil pan?

Yes. I bought a 3 oz from Amazon for like 12$.

2zzTrix! said:

Oh Swell....so i could do the timing cover...and then at a later date do the pan gasket? (actually i think the pan is much easier to do so maybe ill do that first). and The Toyota Seal Packing FIPG would be correct for the oil pan?

Click to expand...

Yes. I usually just buy Permatex Ultra gray or Ultra Black for projects as it's easier to get locally or quickly and works perfect.

This dude has some cool DIYs and has some good tips

Beat me to it. Lol

Edit : it's a great video IMHO. So much to remove though. Very thorough. Is there a recommended interval to do this? Every 100k?

It looks like when you do this, it's a great time to change water pump, thermostat, flush cooling system, check all pulleys, ac clutch /compressor, belt, chain tensioners, lift bolts and valve cover gasket, pcv

Yeah, might as well. Check the timing chain guides too. They wear out and get noisy.

XtRaSlo said:

This dude has some cool DIYs and has some good tips

Click to expand...

O yeah I follow him and watched em. Thats on a celica BTW (Im pretty sure) not a matrix or corolla so access it a bit esier i believe. Still abitch.

I followed this video and did it on my 2004 Matrix XRS with engine still in car.Its honestly not hard just quite time consuming and tedious.Lots to remove and no room to work lol.If you have air injection on your car you will need to remove your exhaust header aswell.

SBZHawkEye said:

I followed this video and did it on my 2004 Matrix XRS with engine still in car.Its honestly not hard just quite time consuming and tedious.Lots to remove and no room to work lol.If you have air injection on your car you will need to remove your exhaust header aswell.

Click to expand...

ugghhhhh. Thats what i was worried about. Really dont want to remove the header.. Thought i read it is doable with it in place but more of a pain obviously...

Why is it necessary to remove the exhaust header for the air injection models?

75aces said:

Why is it necessary to remove the exhaust header for the air injection models?

Click to expand...

The pipe that goes to the exhasut manifold from the pump malkes it difficult or impossible to remove the cover. probably possible to just loosen the nuts at the block and move it a bit as needed rather than remove it completley (ie- unbolt it from the downpipe). Im hoping anyhow...

Interesting.

Was this leak after it was cleaned?