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TN の がしょう
7,390 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all.

I figured that there are a few of us who like to "spice" up our cars but can't due to limited aftermarket sources and supporters. S_T has inspired me to list down some available aftermarket parts that are available for the Gen 7-7.5 (XV50) chassis Camry. This is for MY 2012-2017 (Gen 7-7.5)


Lowering Springs
There are a handful of aftermarket support for the XV50 when it comes down to lowering springs. Lowering your car is the cheaper alternative to getting coilovers but does not increase your handling as much as coilovers would. Simply put, they're just a shorter version of your OEM springs.

Pros: Cheap alternative to lowering your car, easy swap with OEM springs, same ride quality as factory

Cons: Decreases the life of your shocks but minimal at best. It will not effect the life of the shocks as much.

Here are the breakdown per manufacturer and the specs.

Lowest Price Found: $225.00
Part # 54686 4 Cyl. / 54686-2 V6
Lowers 1.4" Front / 1.3" Rear

Eibach Pro-Kit
Lowest Price Found: $260.00
Part # 82106.140 (Will fit both I4 and V6)
Lowers 1.5" F/1.0" R


One of the best, reputable manufacturer, will give it the lowest drop for springs
Lowest Price Found: $227
Part #SKQ60-AUB00 (This part fits 2012-2017 Camry & 2013+ Avalons)
2012-2014 - 1.2" F / 1.4" R
2015+ - 1.6" F / 1.4" R

These are probably the best route to go if you want maximum lowering and stance/track specs. Either if you're going for stance or track, coilovers would be the best upgrade you can go with but also decreases ride comfort. Coilovers decreases body roll and increases handling, but also increases road harshness, you will feel every road bumps and harder to drive around steep driveways and ramps. It can also be tricky if you don't know how to set up the specs. Most coilovers today are adjustable from 36-way to 16-way. Most come with pillow mounts, camber adjusters, castors, and specialized dampers. When it comes to coilovers, I strongly believe you get what you pay, but there are reputable brands that make high quality coilovers for the same price as cheap, unreliable brands. See the list below and see what are offered for the XV50.

Pros: Height adjustable, camber/castor adjustable if offered, increases handling, lowers center of gravity, great for track sessions
Cons: Ride quality decreases, will feel every bump on the road, harder to drive around steep driveways, ramps, and dips, can decrease MPG (not proven but noted by several drivers)

Blitz Damper ZZ-R Probably the best brand you can go with. (This is made for the 4 Cyl/Hybrid. Can't guarantee it will fit the V6 as it might have a wider bore holes for the struts)
Part# 92488
Lowest Price Found: $840.00
Spring Rate: 6.0 F / 3.0 R
Adjustable features: 32-Way Adjustable Damper Settings, Camber, Castor, height (Best one that maintains close to factory ride comfort)
Lowest adjustable height: 3.0" F/R

BC Racing BR Series
Part # C-104 (SE, XSE) C-90 (LE,XLE)
Lowest Price Found: $990
Spring Rate: 6.0F / 3.0 R
Adjustable Features: 30-Way Adjustable damper, camber, height
Lowest Adjustable Height: N/A

Megan Racing
Part # MR-CDK-TCA12S
Lowest Price Found: $899
Spring Rate: 6.0 F / 3.0 R
Adjustable Features: 32-Way
Lowest Adjustable Height: N/A

D2 Racing
Part # D-TO-16-1[/URL]
Lowest Price Found: $990
Spring Rate: 6.0 F / 3.0 R
Adjustable Features: 36-Way
Lowest Adjustable Height: N/A

TEIN Street Advance Z
TEIN reliability and quality comes together at an affordable price.
The Street Advance Z meets both worlds of ride comfort and tracking experience with 16-way damper adjustable settings.
Streets too rough? You can adjust it to ride softer over uneven surfaces and bumps. Streets like polish glass? Adjust it to stiffer settings
Designed to work with factory upper mounts, rust-proof coating thread type ride height adjustment.

Part #GSTE2-9USS2 (Same for both 4 cylinder & 6 cylinder models (LE, SE, XSE) (For SE,XSE, front knuckle bolt center-to-center is 80mm)
Lowest price found: $575.00 (Redline 360)
Spring Rate: F 336mm / R 168mm
Adjustable Features: 16 Way
Ride height drop: 4 Cylinder -1.4F/-1.4R (Max ride height adjustable range low to high: -3.0 ~ -0.8)
V6 -1.6F / -1.4R (Max ride height adjustable range low to high: -3.0 ~ -0.8)

Bracing & Stabilizers
FWD cars are known to understeer quite a bit, besides coilovers and lowering springs, you can also invest in some braces and sway bars in order to minimize understeer. Installing braces and sway bars will greatly decrease understeer, giving you more precise handling and control in turns and corners. This minimizes body roll and flexing of the chassis. If you want to be more technical, you can play with the toe-in, toe-out, cambers, and castors but we will get to that later.

FTB (Front Tower Brace)
Most will argue this is just for aesthetic purposes, but it does increase rigidity of the chassis and reduces body roll and chassis flexing.
1 piece FTB is generally better as it is just 1 piece of metal bolted down compared to a 3-piece FTB where a bolt is used to attach the mid-bar with the braces bolted to the strut mount, which is not as rigid as a 1 piece and allows a small amount of flexing. Works best if you have a lower anti-sway bar installed as well.

Pros: Increases handling and stability, looks cool, very affordable upgrade
Cons: Can't be used at full potential unless you have a lower front anti-sway bar and lower arm braces

Ultra Racing 1-piece FTB
Part # UR-TW2-1964
Lowest Price Found: $128.00
Specs: 2 Point, 1 piece design, Steel, White Coating

Megan Racing FTB
Part # MR-SB-TCA12FU-1P
Lowest Price Found: $90.00
Specs: 3 point, regardless what the Megan sites says, this is not a 1-piece design but a 3 piece as there are bolts holding the middle bar with the strut rings, Aluminum.

Part: N/A
Lowest Price Found: $130
Specs: Similar to Megan Racing FTB

Ultra Racing Front Lower Bar/Front Frame Brace
Part # UR-LA4-309
Lowest Price Found: $190
Spec: 4 point, underfloor chassis brace, steel, 1 piece design

Progress Tech Rear Anti-Sway Bar
Part # 62.2190 (For all models)
Lowest Price Found: $172.00 |
Specs: 19" DIA w/ polyurethane bushings, non adjustable.
Details: Simple bolt-on. Anti-sway bars are a great bargain when it comes to increasing the car's handling and stability. It decreases unwanted body roll and increases traction, which is always a great gain! The polyurethane bushings that comes with it is a huge plus as it's more rigid and reliable than the OEM rubber bushings. Lasts longer too.
You will instantly feel the difference in handling with a thicker sway bar than the thinner OEM. Remember, thicker the sway bar, the more stable it is, but also don't go too thick or the car will be too stiff in turns and you will start to have oversteer. Oversteer on a FWD car is not a great thing to have.

Pros: Increase handling in corners, increase traction, less body roll, more precise control, Polyurethane bushings.
Cons: Only available as non-adjustable, 19mm DIA. A 20mm would be perfect for the XV50 because of its size and weight, but not a big con.

Ultra Racing Rear Anti-Sway Bar
Part # UR-AR19-159
Lowest Price Found: $280
Specs: 19mm bar w/ polyurethane bushings, non-adjustable

Ultra Racing Rear Lower Arm Braces
Part # UR-RLS4-862P
Lowest Price Found: $128
Specs: 4 Points, 1 set of pair, steel

Stay tuned, more will be updated as I find more parts and information.
More new information will be added.

TN の がしょう
7,390 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Let's talk about the engine.

The camry is offered with three engine choices. A 2AR-FE 2.5L I4, 2AR-FXE 2.5L I4 Hybrid, and the 2GR-FE 3.5L V6.

The 2AR-FE, sadly, does not have much engine performance upgrades available. The most you can do without doing any major custom work is changing out the air box with an aftermarket intake system or simply swap out the OEM air filter, with a more free-flowing fabric mesh material that doesn't require replacing. Changing out the spark plugs with Iridium type might help but not necessary.

Intake System
The intake is crucial for your engine. It helps suck in cool air from the outside into the throttle body, which will then transfer it into the cylinders mixed with fuel to create combustion.
Cooler air will help the engine have bigger combustion, thus giving more power. The more cool air is fed, more power you will get.

There are two different types of air intake systems.
A Short Ram Intake (SRI), the most basic of all intake systems. A simple short bent aluminum hose with a cone filter attached at the end. No air box.
Pros: More room for air to be sucked in, engine noise will be louder, minimal HP gain if heat shield/ custom air box is used.
Con: Possible HP loss, depends on the location. A heat shield or air box will help minimize hot air being sucked in from the hot engine block.

Cold Air Intake (CAI)
This is actually the best intake system if you want decent power gain. The stock air box is actually a CAI system from factory. Stock air intake system is probably the best out of all the aftermarket intake systems that is available. Aftermarket CAI usually requires replacing the stock CAI, with a long piece of aluminum pipe and a cone air filter located lower at front of the car. This increases the chance of sucking in water during wet weather or puddles, causing your engine to seizure due to water getting in. Water in the engine is not fun, and not cheap to fix.
Don't risk it with an aftermarket CAI.

Air Filter Replacements
This is the cheapest but also the most efficient if you want minimal power gains. Simply replaces the factory air filter.
Pro: Easy to install, a simple replacement, lifetime usage, no replacement required. CARB Legal, better air flow than stock air filter, utilizes the stock CAI system.
Con: Since it uses the stock air box, the engine will not sound as loud as it would with an intake system.

K&N Air Filter Replacement
Part # K&N 33-2381 for 4 cylinder/hybrid | 33-2443 for V6
Lowest Price Found: $52
Specs: Panel type, cotton gaze, re-oiling amount 1.6 oz

Engine Mods / Upgrades

Chip Tuning
The NA 2GR-FE and 2AR-FE has no known chip tuning available.
It's not the best engine to for naturally aspirated tuning. Unless you're going turbo or supercharger, it's practically non-existent. Even when boosted, good luck finding a shop that can tune it for you as it hasn't been done to my knowledge.

Internals are probably the most achievable option you can go to increase power and torque but just getting one part and calling it a day won't do you any good. You will need to get a "package" mod done in order for all the new parts to work in harmony with each other, giving you power gains safely, and durably.

This is for 2GR-FE only

Monkey Wrench Racing is probably the best place to go for internal upgrades and information on the 2GR-FE. MWR is known for tuning several Toyota engines that are used with Lotus.

The 2GR-FE is actually used in Lotus' Evora. Considering that they use the same engine, the internals are basically the same.

Pistons & Rods
MWR offers a plethora of piston options with forged rods so that it will guarantee safe and durable operations.

The stock 2GR-FE is a 3.5L engine. Meaning it's close to 3500CC (3456CC to be exact or 210.9 cu in.)

This is from a website that recommends the following modification:
You should buy MWR pistons fitted to 12 compression ratio with a performance camshafts MWR duration of 256/256 deg, lift of 10.7/10.7 mm, and cold air intake. You should also do port and polish, purchase a 3-1 headers, performance exhaust system, and set the ECU. It will help to achieve over 320 horsepower.

I will be providing more info soon regarding internals.

Electrical Throttle Response
The camry has a drive-by-wire electrical throttle system. What does this mean? Basically, a delay in the time you press the accelerator to when the car actually goes.
To minimize the delay, there are aftermarket kits out there that will help "minimize" the delay.

Tom's electric throttle controller "L.T.S.II" is the perfect solution to upgrade the car's response time.
Tom's is reputable as they work closely with Toyota and are part of Toyota's racing scene.
-To solve specific dull feeling of electronic throttle model and realize linear and sharp acceleration
-Spec / throttle response to be adjusted by 6 stages
Part #22037-TS004
Prices found online: $400, but can go up to $900 depending on the seller.

*More information will be updated soon *

TN の がしょう
7,390 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Wheel & Tires

Wheels are the trickiest thing when it comes to getting the correct one for your car.

It's not really rocket science, but some people make it seem that way.

There are four things you need to consider before jumping on a new set of wheels.

Wheel diameter, width, offset, and backspacing.

Here's a chart for reference.

Wheel diameter is the easiest thing to choose. It's the overall diameter of the surface of your wheel before you mount tires on them.

Width comes next. Width also incorporates with the wheel back spacing.
The backspacing is the measurement from the inner face of the wheel to the wheel center.
From the wheel center to the outside face of the wheel is the offset.

Here's a drawing showing how it's measured.

These two charts should answer a majority of your questions when it comes to getting the correct wheels for your car.

XSE 18" wheel specs: 18x7.5 40+ 5x114.3 pattern


Factory tires are either Bridgestone Turanza or Michelin Premiers I believe. These are pretty basic tires and a lot of owners seems to dislike the Turanzas, me included.

Tires also increases a car's handling and stability if you upgrade with higher performing tires.

OEM tire fitment for XSE is 225/45/18.

Any tires with these measurements will fit with the OEM 18" wheels.
Don't take my word for it, but you can go with 235/45/18 or 235/40/18 tires if you wish to increase the tread area for better grip. Wider the tire, the more traction and grip you will get, but going too wide also has negative impact on cars that wasn't engineered for such sizes.

I know for sure, you can easily run up to 275/40/19 (19x10) wheels without rubbing for the Camry. I've tried it and it fitted with no rubbing issues, of course, the wheel offset will have to be between +20 and +25 for front and rear but there will be some "poking out" with these offsets.

I will say, 19x8.5 is safest with +30 offset all around and 265/40/19 tires. Pictures below are with NITTO NT05. Test fitted it from curiosity as I still had my wheels after I sold my Genesis Coupe. I was surprised it fitted decently.


Tires are arguably one of the most important part by increasing your car's handling, speed, and braking distance.
Every tire will perform differently on different cars and each car will react differently on different tires.
This is why you should research a bit more on which tire is best for you and your car.

Tires come in various sizes. Your wheel size determines what type of tires you can get. There are three sizes you should always know based on the wheel on your car.

The width of the tire: This is the first number you will see on the side of your tire.
For example: If a tire shows "225/45W18", the 225 is the width of your tire.
Based on the width of your wheel, this is how you should determine the tire width you want.

The sidewall ratio: This is the middle number shown on the side of your wheel.
For example: If the tire shows "225/45W18, the 45 is the sidewall thickness of your tire.
This is all in your preference if you want a smooth ride or rough ride. Thicker the sidewall, the more your tires will absorb the road surface and give you a more quiet, comfortable ride.
Lower the sidewall, the rougher your ride will be since the tire will not be able to absorb as much.

Lastly, the diameter of the tire: This is the last number you will see on the side of your tire.
For example: if the tire shows "225/45W18", the 18R will be the diameter of the tire.
Based on your wheel, if you have 18" wheels, you will need an 18" tire.
Also, if you're wondering what the "W" is, this is the speed rating on what speed your tires are rated for.

There are different speed ratings per tire. Most high performance tires are rated above W rating. This means it's rated for speeds over 149+ mph. It's not like you will need it, since 99.9999% of camrys sold will never go past 120MPH on the roads. (Please don't attempt this on public roads). But it is a nice thing to have when you're planning to track your car as all high performance tires are rated higher than W.

The rule of thumb that I follow when looking for performance tires, I look for the tread design, tread lifespan, and price.

When there are less tread design that closely resembles a race tire, these would be considered D.O.T tires where it is compliant for road use but is also rated for track use.

Regarding tire sizes:

You can use the following formula: (Based on 225/45R18)

To convert from mm to inches, multiply by 0.04.
Convert the width of the tire "225mm" to inches, which is 225mm x 0.04 = 9"
Then get the ratio aspect of the side wall, which is the second set of numbers (225/45/18)
225 x 0.45 = 101.25mm
9" x 0.45 = 4.05"

To get the entire tire height, use the following formula:

Tire sidewall ratio x 2 + (wheel diameter) = Entire Wheel Height.

4.05" x 4.05" + 18" = 26.10" H.

See the other aspect ratios below regarding tire sizes

205/65 = 5.33"
205/50 = 4.10"
225/45 = 4.05"
235/45 = 4.23"
235/40 = 3.76"

As you can see, the wider the tires goes, the sidewall aspect ratio also gets smaller.
Basically, going from 225/45 to 235/45 will not give you the same sidewall height. It will be taller as you can see the numbers.

Hope this helps.

More info coming soon.

TN の がしょう
7,390 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Btw> different springs (and corresponding pn#s) are made for i4 and v6
Only the H&R have different numbers. Eibachs are the same for both engine specs. :grin: The coilovers are for both engine trims except when noted.

TN の がしょう
7,390 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Wheel information has been updated.

558 Posts
Wheels are a tricky topic because in theory lower offsets should easily clear the brakes/suspensions, but the width as well as the wheel design plays a very critical role in fitment. Case in point: 20x7.5" Venza wheels should be usable on the Camry, especially since it has +35mm offset, but it hits the brakes thus requires +3mm spacers. A good site i use to do calculations is

Also, don't forget Toyco bore size is 60.1mm, otherwise ur going to wonder why your Kia mounted wheels are shaking on ur Camry, without hubcentric rings! ^^

558 Posts
Info on K&N aftermarket Typhoon SRIs:

2015 Toyota Camry 3.5L Cold Air Intake 69-8618TS
Est. Power Gain
7.1 HP @ 5914 RPM

2015 Toyota Camry 2.5L Cold Air Intake 69-8620TTK
Est. Power Gain
5.76 HP @ 5605 RPM

Honda-Tech White Ops
1,581 Posts
Also Megan has EZ street coilovers which use the OEM tophats for 699 shipped. they have 15 way dampening adjustments.

I got quoted 639 shipped, but that was because i know people in the industry.

Honda-Tech White Ops
1,581 Posts
Info on K&N aftermarket Typhoon SRIs:

2015 Toyota Camry 3.5L Cold Air Intake 69-8618TS
Est. Power Gain
7.1 HP @ 5914 RPM

2015 Toyota Camry 2.5L Cold Air Intake 69-8620TTK
Est. Power Gain
5.76 HP @ 5605 RPM
the dollar to power ratio isnt worth it IMHO, but to each their own.

As a guy who has built high performance engines before, Im just going to say this. You can do any one of the Air intake mods including the drop-in filter. Will it perform better then stock? YES. But it will be limited.

Your engine is nothing more then an air pump. The more air you can effectively get in and out of it, the better it will perform. So while free'ing up the intake side, your still restricted on the exhaust side. Cheaply made iron exhaust manifold paired with narrow tubing on top of restrictive cat and muffler really puts a cork on performance. You need free flow air going in and going out. Backpressure is a myth. The free'er the intake and exhaust, the better your engine will perform. Hopefully the MAF and IAT sensors will allow for ECU changes needed for optimal burn.
Ive seen something about Scion TC header for the I4 model which would require new tubing from the downpipe all the way back. Aftermarket cats are cheap and dont last very long. But its still an option if someone has cash in their pockets and want to build their own exhaust. Theres plenty of sites selling mandrel bent tubing kits, and plenty of resonator/muffler options.

Try to stay away from fiberglass "glasspacks" as they burn out over time. Stainless steel wool packing is what you should be looking for. As for mufflers, My personal preference is Vibrant Stealth series (black), or their stainless/polished universal muffler. Ive used both of these and IMHO sound better then any magnaflow/borla/etc..

Honda-Tech White Ops
1,581 Posts
Now I have a question:

S_T, your posting that spring decrease the service life of the struts.

Now, as the spring might lower the car 1.5" but that where the hub is measured. it might be only .75 of a difference between the OEM spring and the aftermarket. So the struts shock area isnt really sitting 1.5" lower, its probably more like .75" (estimating) which is fine for OEM struts as its still in its travel zone. Ill have to look to see if the SE (which supposedly has sport tuned suspension according to the window decal) struts have a different part number then the base model's struts. If so, then the struts are made for this "Sport tuned" spring and can handle a set of springs. If they are the same part numbers, and just different springs, then they should still hold up.

So we need to do some research on part numbers of OEM struts and springs for the base and the SE.

Now moving on.. I keep seeing different facts about the SE 4 banger Eibach lowering measurements. Some sites say 1.5frt/1"rr and Eibach's site says 1.5/1.2" I really need the front to sit lower and H&R just looks bad IMO as it keeps the nose up in the air.

.3" isnt much, but when dealing with wheel well gap, it makes a big difference.

Heres a link showing 2 different lowering amounts.
this one you will need to put in the application

TN の がしょう
7,390 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for your inputs. It will help a lot for members when they see this thread. I will keep on continuing updating this thread as I find out more about what's available for our car.

Honda-Tech White Ops
1,581 Posts
I was just looking and TRD doesnt even make anything for the 7th gen..

I find it odd since the camry is nascar approved and the best selling car in north america.

558 Posts
There is one primary exhaust restriction and its not the stock exhausts. Guys like Area47 ans 2quick have already gone down this path....

As far as strut service life, it is readily apparent that there is much more travel, thus the high level warning. To what extent, who knows. Ymmv....

And i thought this thread was about available mods, not opinions about mods...?

Honda-Tech White Ops
1,581 Posts
Not so much about opinions as just informing the average joe that spending 300 bucks for a 5hp gain (to which they wont feel) is pointless.

IDK who Area47 and 2quick is or their experience, OEM exhausts are restrictive. Dyno runs have proven this time and time again. So not need to argue this mute point.
But as a guy who has built engines and a race car, im only speaking with my experience.
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