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Inner CV Boot Clamps Are Not Supposed to Be Air-tight

7K views 9 replies 3 participants last post by  Wrapspeedahead 
#1 · (Edited)
So, I was doing a passenger side axle replacement recently, and learned a few things...

I was told by two mechanics, and one dealer that it's normal for air to pass back and forth through the large side that's clamped on the inner CV joint. And, it's normal for a small bit of grease to escape. I had a hard time believing that! But I'm certain that it's true -- this probably keeps the boot from exploding as the CV joint moves in all directions!

Also, over time, the grease breaks down into a thinner consistency, so that more begins to escape around the boot. In addition, after 135k miles, mine accumulated around the engine to look like I had a boot failure of some sort. I took the boot off, and there was still a lot of grease in there - but maybe it was thinned out.

I heard a lot of people with grease patterns around the engine say that they don't see any boot failure; and other folks respond to say that the boot MUST BE coming completely off the axle, or that it's just very hard to see the hole on the boot. I think most of the time, it's just normal seepage that I've explained. I'm betting that way too many people are doing boot repairs, or getting new axles when it's not necessary.

My drivers side axle also has grease around it, and needs further inspection. I was developing a slight clicking sound (not sure from where), so I assumed that one of my axles was going bad. Maybe. But, maybe it's something else -- I'm still chasing it down. I just finished the passenger axle last night, and will see if that fixed the clicking. If I had no clicking sounds and had known about the normal boot seepage, then I would have just cleaned up the mess around the engine and kept an eye on it. We'll see -- still chasing it down!

[Keep in mind, I do most things with OEM parts, and decided against after-market axles.]
 
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#2 ·
UPDATE: Did the test drive today. Something is still clicking at slow speed and randomly -- sounds like the drivers side though. The dealer told me a while back that both inner boots were "torn." I just spent 10 minutes looking closely at the drivers side boot. There's minor grease seepage from the large side of the boot, like the passenger was, but way less grease on the motor, etc. I turned the axle around several times while looking at the boot, and it looks good to me.

Hmm. The dealer said that I had a loose axle nut causing the noise. I looked at both front nuts, and they were properly striked, and looked like neither ever moved. Maybe I'll try just replacing the axle nut on the drivers side. I think I'm going to have a brand new OEM drivers side axle for sale soon!
 
#7 ·
You’re welcome. Anyway good CV joints don't leak grease, period. (just look at the good ones in the videos below).

Search Surtrack new aftermarket axles on rockauto, about $64-66 each plus tax and shipping. These carry lifetime warranty, but any warranty claim requires you pay shipping back to rockauto and they pay to ship items to you. (Or check local parts stores because you can pick up.) Use the 5% discount rockauto code too.

If you can't DIY, then you need to find a shop that will work with you, either allow you to select new aftermarket parts or use the parts you bought. Some are more willing than others so check around. I personally catch torn/leaking boots early (hairline crack stage), so I reboot original axles using OEM boots. If it's already clicking, usually it means it's too late. You might be able to inspect and see if they're salvageable. With torn CV boots or ball joint boots some states will fail the vehicle during safety inspections.

RockAuto Discount Code

If the originals can't be rebuilt, then I'd go new aftermarket rather than rebuilts, as rebuilts can be a crapshoot. Example of passenger side for 2.7L engine:
More Information for SURTRACK/TRAKMOTIVE TO8237

Here are some videos, more on YT:



It's a good time to check the ball joints too. If needed, I'd recommend OEM as it's about the same cost as Moog at around $52. This is a critical part and install/re-install should be done carefully as far as wear inspection, grease/debris and castle nut torque. Have a read:

What's inside a ball joint: OEM vs Aftermarket
 
#9 ·
JohnGD is right, and everyone else was wrong! I had a mechanic put the OEM boot on a few weeks ago. (I removed the axle, and re-installed it.) So here's what happens when you don't do it right. (Enjoy the photos -- I laughed. I wiped it clean before the install, so this is all fresh grease!) If I had the $200 clamp tool, then I'd do the boot myself. At least he gave me my $75 back that I paid him. Looks like I'm going to the dealer with my axle $$$, and need a decent mechanic. I can REALLY see why folks go with after-market axles.

JohnGD: I'll look into the ball joint for that side, because I'll have the axle off again. Also, I follow all the torque spec's for castle nuts, etc... so I'm not sure what else to be careful about. Thank you

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#10 · (Edited)
You don't install cv bands dry. The best grease that you can possibly use between the band and the rubber is salvaged grease from a Genuine ball joint. Always coat the ball joint boot lip as well. How many shops don't bother to do this. It makes me sick. The factory service manual gives the precise length of a cv assembly with boot pressure equalized. Gosh I wonder why they do this?
 
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