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Installing Alpine 9835 into 95 Corolla

1866 Views 16 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Darkness
What's good y'all. I'm new to the forums (posting wise) but I've been lurking for awhile. I'm hoping to get a Gen 5 Camry in a couple months, but I'm sure how that's gonna work out. Until then, I have a 95 Corolla DX. I hate it, but it gets me from A to B with no problems.

I had the factory tape deck in there for the longest, then a few weeks ago I finally upgraded to an Alpine 9851 since my man started working at Best Buy. I only planned to keep that up until the return period was over though, because what I really wanted was the 9835. I'm happy to say that I returned the 9851, and I'm waiting on the 9835 to arrive in the mail any day now:clap: .

I know how to install a regular HU, but the 9835 has the V-Drive, which is a really strong internal amp. It draws a lot of currency, so Alpine strongly advises a direct connection to the battery.

Wiring Note: While providing high power output, this unit can draw a substantial amount of current. Per Alpine, this receiver's constant power wire must be connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery in your vehicle, and 10-gauge wire must be used to make the connection. This requires a length of 10-gauge power cable, an in-line fuse holder with a 20- to 30-amp fuse and a ring terminal (the ring terminal is used to connect the cable to the battery clamp). Although all the pieces of a basic amplifier wiring kit will not be not needed, if you do not wish to assemble the required items separately, the power wire and in-line fuse holder from a basic 10-gauge kit can be used to connect the constant power wire to your vehicle's battery. For a secure, permanent connection, the 10-gauge cable must be soldered to this receiver's 16-gauge constant power wire.

I know that I can pick up a 10 gauge wiring kit from Best Buy/Circuit City/Radio Shack for about $35, but I was wondering if it'd be cheaper to just buy the individual components, (power cable, in-line fuse holder with fuse, and ring terminal) or go with the complete kit. I have an old SAS bass tube sitting around, and my man is gonna give me his cheap Dual amp that he used to power his subs with, and I know I'll need an amp kit for that. The only thing I've installed audio wise are speakers and the HU, so I don't know much about the whole amp thing. I was just thinking maybe I'd get the kit if y'all tell me I'll end up needing parts from it for the amp/bass tube install that's coming in a few weeks.

Also, I have no idea how to hook up the amp kit to the HU and where/how to run the wire to the battery. I've been driving all week with no nothing, so I want to put in the HU as soon as I get it.

What do y'all think?
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Well, for my wiring needs, I use www.knukonceptz.com. Pretty good prices, and you can buy kits, or get everything seperate. That and its pretty stylish stuff too (not that anyone would really see it, but I like it). You can find stuff pretty cheap on ebay, and there are some other sites, but I don't remember them off the top of my head.

If you're going to "upgrade" later with the SAS and Dual (LOL - "upgrade" haha - JK, but its funny) then you'll probably need a whole amp kit just for that. For my install (two amps, two subs, and a pair of speakers (coaxes...:disappoin ) I think I used two full wiring kits (8 AWG and a 4 AWG) so I would think you'd be fine with one kit.

Oh yeah, and welcome to the forum! (psst, hey guys, there's another girl in the a/v section!)
Darkness said:
What's good y'all. I'm new to the forums (posting wise) but I've been lurking for awhile. I'm hoping to get a Gen 5 Camry in a couple months, but I'm sure how that's gonna work out. Until then, I have a 95 Corolla DX. I hate it, but it gets me from A to B with no problems.

I had the factory tape deck in there for the longest, then a few weeks ago I finally upgraded to an Alpine 9851 since my man started working at Best Buy. I only planned to keep that up until the return period was over though, because what I really wanted was the 9835. I'm happy to say that I returned the 9851, and I'm waiting on the 9835 to arrive in the mail any day now:clap: .

I know how to install a regular HU, but the 9835 has the V-Drive, which is a really strong internal amp. It draws a lot of currency, so Alpine strongly advises a direct connection to the battery.

Wiring Note: While providing high power output, this unit can draw a substantial amount of current. Per Alpine, this receiver's constant power wire must be connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery in your vehicle, and 10-gauge wire must be used to make the connection. This requires a length of 10-gauge power cable, an in-line fuse holder with a 20- to 30-amp fuse and a ring terminal (the ring terminal is used to connect the cable to the battery clamp). Although all the pieces of a basic amplifier wiring kit will not be not needed, if you do not wish to assemble the required items separately, the power wire and in-line fuse holder from a basic 10-gauge kit can be used to connect the constant power wire to your vehicle's battery. For a secure, permanent connection, the 10-gauge cable must be soldered to this receiver's 16-gauge constant power wire.

I know that I can pick up a 10 gauge wiring kit from Best Buy/Circuit City/Radio Shack for about $35, but I was wondering if it'd be cheaper to just buy the individual components, (power cable, in-line fuse holder with fuse, and ring terminal) or go with the complete kit. I have an old SAS bass tube sitting around, and my man is gonna give me his cheap Dual amp that he used to power his subs with, and I know I'll need an amp kit for that. The only thing I've installed audio wise are speakers and the HU, so I don't know much about the whole amp thing. I was just thinking maybe I'd get the kit if y'all tell me I'll end up needing parts from it for the amp/bass tube install that's coming in a few weeks.



What do y'all think?
Welcome to TN :thumbup: Good luck on the new Camry :D



TN member FRITO has a bunch of wiring for sale, really good prices.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t107865.html

You'll need a 10 gauge power kit, and a 8 gauge amp kit, he has both really cheap.



Also, I have no idea how to hook up the amp kit to the HU and where/how to run the wire to the battery. I've been driving all week with no nothing, so I want to put in the HU as soon as I get it.
Check out these two links found in the Stickies.

http://www.toyotanation.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13159

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t92704.html
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Delay_FTB said:
Oh yeah, and welcome to the forum! (psst, hey guys, there's another girl in the a/v section!)
Sorry to dissappoint you, but I'm 100% male!
My bad, you said "my man" and I took that as signifigant other, not so much "a friend of mine." My bad...

gettin my hopes up and shit, I should know better.
yeah I guess that's my NY slang
Yeah, you crazy easterners!

Its all good.

---Hmmm...I just noticed, I've been here a year now...
What I really need to know is how to get the wire from the HU to the battery...
You'll need to route it through the rubber grommet in the firewall(near the brake master cylinder). Then wire it up through the dash. Use zip ties :)

And make sure you have the right size fuse in the inline fuse holder near the battery.
Ahh see now we're getting somewhere. I think in the future I'll keep my posts shorter because in all the forums I post at, I seem to get better responses that way (I only went with the real detailed post cuz I used to see people get lit up for not including enough info...oh well).

If you got some pictures or something that I could look at that would be great cuz I don't know what the master cylinder or the rubber grommet look like.

I think it's just one wire that will be coming from the battery, which is the wire for power. You mentioned using zip ties - are there some other wires I should be running from the battery?

Thanks for the heads up on the fuse. Alpine recommneds a 20 to 30 amp fuse so that's what I'll get. I'm not going to go the internet route cuz I can't wait to get the stuff, so do y'all think I can get the individual stuff (fuse, ring terminal, 10-gauge power cable) at a radio shack?

Cam2xrunner, I don't know if the "Kit" shit you got in your avatar is just that, an avatar, or if you got it on your V, but I saw it on someone's car somewhere in/behind the grill and it looked TOUGH!
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Darkness said:
Ahh see now we're getting somewhere. I think in the future I'll keep my posts shorter because in all the forums I post at, I seem to get better responses that way (I only went with the real detailed post cuz I used to see people get lit up for not including enough info...oh well).
The A/V section used to be very busy. :whatthe: It does help to go into detail about what you're doing. [/quote]


If you got some pictures or something that I could look at that would be great cuz I don't know what the master cylinder or the rubber grommet look like.
[/quote]

I'll try searching for some pics of that grommet for you.

I think it's just one wire that will be coming from the battery, which is the wire for power. You mentioned using zip ties - are there some other wires I should be running from the battery?
You will need 10 gauge power wire. An inline fuse, fuse, ring terminals (for crimping the wire), and you'll also need to make a ground wire and ground it to a good location (scrape paint if necc.)
Thanks for the heads up on the fuse. Alpine recommneds a 20 to 30 amp fuse so that's what I'll get. I'm not going to go the internet route cuz I can't wait to get the stuff, so do y'all think I can get the individual stuff (fuse, ring terminal, 10-gauge power cable) at a radio shack?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...inline+fuse&kwCatId=2032058&parentPage=search

then get some ring terminals and some 12 ga wire

Cam2xrunner, I don't know if the "Kit" shit you got in your avatar is just that, an avatar, or if you got it on your V, but I saw it on someone's car somewhere in/behind the grill and it looked TOUGH!
lol, I just liked the avatar. Not sure about the kit.
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My man (that's gonna be helping on the install) and I took a look around yesterday but couldn't find any hole to run the wire through. He said he'd bring some tool from work that he could use to make a hole.

If there is a hole already there I'd obviously much rather use that. How bout them pics?:)
Lift up the car and take off the driver side wheel. Then take the plastic cover off and you should see a rubber thing under there in the firewall. It's not neccessary to drill another hole because there's already holes in the vehicle.

Look under the dash and look for the trunk release. Try to follow the cable to the firewall, there's a hole in there somewhere. Either that or follow the bundle of wires under there to the firewall.
Happy holidays, merry christmas, all that good stuff:thumbsup:

How bout them pics cam2xrunner?
touringcamry said:
Lift up the car and take off the driver side wheel. Then take the plastic cover off and you should see a rubber thing under there in the firewall. It's not neccessary to drill another hole because there's already holes in the vehicle.

Look under the dash and look for the trunk release. Try to follow the cable to the firewall, there's a hole in there somewhere. Either that or follow the bundle of wires under there to the firewall.
I took the wheel off and partially took the plastic cover off, but I stil didn't see anywhere to run the wires. And behind the trunk release is a gazillion jumbles of wires. :confused: Trying to navigate it gave me a headache. I didn't see any hole by the master cylinder either.

PICS PICS PICS! I need pics. I've never done anything this detailed and it's hard from just descriptions to find these holes you guys are talking about. I even looked in my Haynes manual but that wasn't much help.

So please, if anyone has any pics or diagrams on the exact location of the hole, help me out
I'll Look On my computer to see if I have any pics.

I know what youre looking for though. It was kind of a pain to find, but wicked easy once you do.

You'll need to look pretty high up under the dash. its not really right behind the pedals, but up above the pedals, and its probably not as big as you might think. I'm not sure how far you took the wheel well lining off, but its closer to the apex of the well as opposed to on the side. Took me forever to figure out where it was, but it was real easy once I found it.
anyone got those pics for me?
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