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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I need help troubleshooting. Note: my 1999 camry le v6 has an after market alarm with remote start installed in 2012.

Let me describe the scenarios.

[Situation 1 - Manually starting car]
I insert key, turn on the car. Car starts but nothing is working on instrument cluster panel, ac, radio, and power windows does not work. I press on the brake and cant get my car out of park mode (only works if I override). Car is still running.

[Situation 2 - remote start kill switch test - good]
I remote start my car, instrument cluster panel, ac, radio, and windows works. Without turning key in on position i step on brakes, car turns off (this is normal and works as intended)

[Situation 3 - remote start and inserting key turning to on position- not working properly]
I remote start my car, everything describe above is working. I insert my key into the ignition and turn to the on position. I step on the brakes, the instrument cluster and gauges and ac, radio all stops working. Car is still running.

How do I fix this?

I have a compustar 2w9000r-ss. An authorized dealer installed everything for 1k long ago but they went out of business.

Please advise. Thanks!
 

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Odd that the remote starter has been installed since 2012 and you are just now having issues.

I feel like this is an unrelated issue with the remote starter itself. Or it’s possible that they just made crappy wire connections when installing and now have failed over time.

A lot of alarm installers like to T-tap up everything because it’s fast and efficient for them, they get you in and out but it’s really a terrible method. Others tend to strip back wires and just twist together and tape it, another bad method.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Odd that the remote starter has been installed since 2012 and you are just now having issues.

I feel like this is an unrelated issue with the remote starter itself. Or it’s possible that they just made crappy wire connections when installing and now have failed over time.

A lot of alarm installers like to T-tap up everything because it’s fast and efficient for them, they get you in and out but it’s really a terrible method. Others tend to strip back wires and just twist together and tape it, another bad method.
I thought maybe it was the 100A alt fusible link fuse under the hood but I just checked and the fuse seems good.

I think the reason why the remote start works is because it also runs on a backup battery pack that came with the alarm system.

As a result, I think there is an open circuit somewhere but I dont know which wires I need to check for continuity. Any ideas? The left side of my fuse box does not get power under the driver side. This includes: ""seat-Heater, heater, gauge (no power to this probably is why I have no instrument cluster panel), wiper, mirror-heater.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I saw some abnormal burn marks on one of the wiring harness going to what appears to be the ignition switch area?? Is this bad and what does it mean?

287812
287813
287814
287816
287818





I've just checked the two magicar relays that the burnt marking wire runs to and and both relays are good: 85 and 86 clicks when wired to a positive/negative. 30 and 87 is about .3 ohms of resistance and .8 ohms resistance on the relays.

I checked for continuity from the harness to the Male end of the relays and the were good. I'm not sure how to check the ignition female end.... what's the part number for this and should I replace it?
 

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Possibly too much current is being pulled from that wire. That white wire lead is +12v constant for the ignition switch.

Looks like maybe two T-taps were used to pull power from that wire? And then another T-tap on the white/red wire which is the other +12v constant for ignition.

T-taps can sometimes sever the copper wire strands when those are used. If the blade inside the T-tap is only making contact on a few strands it’s bottle necking the current and causing resistance and heating up the wire.

Cant remember the amp ratings for both of those +12v wires but when I installed my alarm I pulled power directly from the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Well, I just replaced the 100a alt fuse under the hood hoping it would fix my gauges on the instrument cluster but nothing.

I dont know what else to check.

When I put key in the ignition with door open, I get the indoor is open light on and engine light. When I start up my car, the only thing lighting up on my dash is my door open light. Clocks, radio, power windows, ac and everything on the cluster gauge gets nothing.

Where exactly is the wire that I need to check that powers up the fuse box under the driver side?

Should I take my cluster panel off and check the connections in the back?

I shouldn't need to right? Because when I remote start my car, everything works and turns on until i step only brakes (car still runs though)


Also, how do you troubleshoot the ignition switch? A replacement part from autozone would cost me 80$.

Another food for thought, would a bad speed sensor not enable the instrument cluster?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
One more thing,

I have not checked any relays under the hood because I couldn't figure out how to pull them out. Would a bad relay cause no power to the interior fuse box?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update: I did a wiggle test around those wires under the ignition starter harness and everything started working. I went in and scotched brite the burnt Mark's off and bent one of the burnt pins at a small angle and reconnected the wiring harness and everything works now.

Those T-Taps (my alarm guy did in 2012)... should I rewire my alarm to a custom relay power junction box?

Moving forward, should I buy a new ignition switch make end harness and a new female end harness?
 

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Are you referring to the butt splice?

The best repair, get rid of the splice and solder same gauge wire and lengthen the power. This way, it isn't so close to the junction block to do serious damage.
 

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I would definitely replace that ignition switch. Also grab a ignition pigtail from the junkyard. Cut it back far as possible so your pig tail has plenty of wire length to work with.

Those wire taps need to be addressed, since you would be splicing in a new pigtail you could get rid of those at the same time.

Do you own any crimping tools or a soldering iron station?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would definitely replace that ignition switch. Also grab a ignition pigtail from the junkyard. Cut it back far as possible so your pig tail has plenty of wire length to work with.

Those wire taps need to be addressed, since you would be splicing in a new pigtail you could get rid of those at the same time.

Do you own any crimping tools or a soldering iron station?
I own a soldering iron and crimping tools. I'm pretty good with hands on work as long as I have a game plan.

Can you link me to the correct "pigtail" so i can buy.

This is the ignition switch I think i should get for my 1999 camry le v6. It costs about 80$

I'm assuming the key and everything should still work normal because I'm not replacing the ignition cylinder correct?

By the way, thanks for all your help.
 

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Ignition switch: Beck/arnley 2011792


Pigtail for the ignition switch I would suggest buying one from a local auto dismantler. You can search one close to you with carpart.com search your make and model, you can search for whatever random part, just get the phone number for them and ask about a pigtail needed for the ignition switch. If they have a entire car still they can snip out the pigtail you need.

Better and cheaper option is to go to a local U-pull it junk yard. Do you have any pick-n-pull locations near you?

I pay $2 to get in then, then pay for whatever part you pull.

One of these options would be best as you keep the same color and gauge wires. Aftermarket pigtails tend to be all same soild color wires and sometimes incorrect wire gauge. A used factory cut out would be as simple as matching wire colors.
 

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O yeah far as making your connections. I would personally solder but not sure how comfortable or experienced you are with that. If you have a lil iron that just plugs into the wall with no temperature control that’s not going to cut it. I also suggest 60/40 rosin core solder. The pros with this is mostly that it will keep the bulk of the harness smaller. But since it’s under the dash who cares.


Crimping, I don’t like the hard plastic nylon butt splices. I prefer the weather tight heatshrink terminals, provides a good seal and the heat shrink will act as a better strain relief for the wire. I only keep these on hand, or I’ll use a non insulated butt connector terminal then use my own heat shrink over that. Even though it’s inside the car and won’t see any moisture like something under the hood I use adhesive lined connectors and heat shrink on anything I touch. The cons with this is using a shitty crimp tool, low quality terminals, and it adds a large bulk to the harness since you would be making multiple splices in the same location, however again who cares as it’s something under the dash and won’t be seen.

I mostly use a lot of expensive ratcheting crimper but this one here will get the job done just be consistent with the amount of force you apply each time you make a crimp

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Channellock-9-1-2-in-Crimping-Pliers-909/202304949

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-9-1-2-in-Crimping-Tool-1005SEN/100352095
 

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I was lookin at some of those photos again. In one of them on the entire ignition aluminum casing it looks like a dark blue 14/16ga ring terminal was used to ground something there. Looks like a black wire was once there and cut off flush. What is that from? Where is the alarm ground wire?

also follow all of that wiring up to the alarm and check the condition of the wires, it’s a shame they didnt even bother to tape or loom the wiring for the alarm. With everything apart start the car and turn the wheel from lock to lock and make sure that harness isn’t rubbing up against anything when turning the wheel. Something could have been chafing the harness causing a short to ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I was lookin at some of those photos again. In one of them on the entire ignition aluminum casing it looks like a dark blue 14/16ga ring terminal was used to ground something there. Looks like a black wire was once there and cut off flush. What is that from? Where is the alarm ground wire?

also follow all of that wiring up to the alarm and check the condition of the wires, it’s a shame they didnt even bother to tape or loom the wiring for the alarm. With everything apart start the car and turn the wheel from lock to lock and make sure that harness isn’t rubbing up against anything when turning the wheel. Something could have been chafing the harness causing a short to ground.
Hmm. Good eye. Besides the one you saw, there was another ground that was missing wire. To be honest there was a time I spent testing different ground points for my car stereo to troubleshoot the alternator wine noise. However, I cant remember if these were my old car stereo ground points.

Now that you mention it, my steering wheel use to make a weird rubber squeak nose whenever I turn so now I'm wondering if a wire got caught and ripped :(.
 
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