[mem9945]

Has anyone used Bar's Leaks successfully. Is it OK to use without damaging the engine and making matters worse?

I drive my '89 Toy (3VZ) back and forth to work. Approx 35mi round trip. My truck recently went from a slow leak of about a quart per month to almost a quart per day within a 1 week period. I had never been able to locate the previous leak even after thoroughly degreasing the engine bay 3 times. Since the truck has 145k on it (I bought it at 117k) I decided to start putting new gaskets in it til I could locate the problem. Changed the valve cover gaskets (they were rock hard). Changed the oil pan gasket (actually Permatex'd). I have one gasket left from kit (main seal) but have no idea where it goes or how much work is invloved in installing it. Leak is still there and SEVERE. Drips heavily from front of engine SOMWHERE but still cant nail it down.

Any ideas Toyota gurus?

Thanks!

 

[misfit]

stop leak additives usually cause more harm than good.

 

[V62WDLongbed]

There is a seal in front of the oil pump. I replaced the one on my V6 the last time I changed the timing belt.

Changing the rear main seal will require that you pull the transmission.

I've found that Bars Leak Rear Main Seal Repair does wonders on engines who's head gasket leaks oil. It may help with your problem but a true fix is to replace the seal.

 

[Zembonez]

These concoctions are temporary at best. To call them a fix is being quite optimistic.

 

[IronNam]

is your oil pump missing a bolt? (do 3VZ-E's have the pumps on the crank?)

on my 22RE, about 2 years ago, i forgot one of 3 bolts. fixed it about a month or so ago.

 

[Jayota]

Take the time and fix it right. Those stop leak products just cause issues down the road.

 

[killer01Ws6]

the bars "might" have helped with you was just leaking a little bit here and there, once it got to a qt a week, no good... now a qt a day? that is a serious leak, you should be able to see where it is coming from NOW for sure.

I am not a fan of leak additives, I think you should look at changing your timing belt and all gaskets and tension pulley.. Then that only leaves the rear main seal and well, that one is a PITB too, but mostly just time consuming, as dropping the trans and oil pan..

 

[mem9945]

Been there done that

Well since I know the leak is coming from somewhere near front of engine, I guess I won't be doing that main rear seal. Especially if it requires dropping the oil pan again. Had to remove mounts and lift the engine 3 inches to get that sucker out. What a PITA. Thanks to all for the replies about 'additives'. I think I will stay away from them.

the bars "might" have helped with you was just leaking a little bit here and there, once it got to a qt a week, no good... now a qt a day? that is a serious leak, you should be able to see where it is coming from NOW for sure.

I am not a fan of leak additives, I think you should look at changing your timing belt and all gaskets and tension pulley.. Then that only leaves the rear main seal and well, that one is a PITB too, but mostly just time consuming, as dropping the trans and oil pan..

 

[rivethed]

IMHO and experience, sounds like your water pump s leaking, through the shaft bearing "weap hole". When a pump leaks through there, the seal on the pump shaft is going. Eventually it will become a bigger leak. with this engine, it is hard to be certain, as the water pump is behind the timing covers (and clutch fan bracket) and you cannot see it without tearing it out. So, look at replacing the water pump, and might as well do the timing belt since you have the front apart.

 

[denniswoo]

Any additive like bars-leak I would only use in extreme emergency's. They make an additive that you use in your cooling system called nalcol that is supposed to inhibit rust and helps to keep your water pump bearings and seals lubricated that I have used, I have noticed when I do a flush ever couple years my system has been cleaner looking so it works.

 

[Zembonez]

Looks like the answer here is NO!:lol:


/thread