[Ikeman01]

Hi,
Forgive my ignorance....I've got the dreaded intermittent P401 code. From what I have read I need to replace the VSV. I think I have found it at Advanced Auto, but they are calling it a EGR Control Solenoid. Part number EGR 287 at the store.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...id-BWD_20470054-P_1420_R|GRPEMISAMS_784355223___

are the VSV and this part one in the same????

 

[Nervous]

First of all, nobody said that replacing EGR VSV always fixes the P0401. It could be:
1) EGR VSV
2) Vacuum leak
3) Clogged EGR pipe
4) Clogged EGR vavle
5) Bad EGR valve
6) Bad vacuum modulator
7) Clogged vacuum hoses

Next, I would stay away from no name aftermarket parts for EGR system especially. Get OEM, it is just $30 more but you'll get guaranteed-to-work-correctly part. If that aftermarket part is a bit of out of specs - you'll get your code back (or, can get P0402 instead).

And if you want to understand the EGR system, here are the good links about it and how to fix the P0401:

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082009_04.pdf
http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092009_04.pdf
http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102009_04.pdf
http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112009_04.pdf
http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/122009_04.pdf

 

[Nervous]

What is the year and engine, btw?

 

[Ikeman01]

What is the year and engine, btw?

2001 Camry 2.2 4Cyl

I pretty much have checked everything else.....ERG seems to be working and the light will go off for a day or two then come back.......no leaks in the vaccum lines.....and from what i've read the VSV or Solenoid or whatevever it is called fixes the problem 90% of the time.....

 

[Nervous]

You can test it. The links above describe in details how to test the VSV. The first step is to measure the resistance, it should be somewhere around 35 Ohm, as I remember. When you can apply 12V and see if it clicks. Read the links, they are very good.
And again, buy OEM VSV. The part number for your engine is 25860‑74050, on partznet.com it costs $57.93 + 8.50 shipping (free for orders $100+). Don't buy the aftermarket crap, especially replacing of it on 5SFE is a huge PITA.

 

[TOYOPARTSMAN]

IMO, in order to fix that effectively and correctly, you should replace the EGR valve (25620-74050) and the EGR modulator (25870-74090) and the VSV(25860-74050).

Now, there will be members in here that will tell you to clean this, try that, etc. Some of it is effective, but temporarily. At the dealership, because each item could trigger the code, and we attempt to avoid a come back, we replace all three simultanously. I know it may sound like overkill, but we don't have the luxury of trying one and if it doesn't fix it, explain why it it more money for the same complaint, etc. When we do all three, we almost never have to code come back on. My two cents worth.

In any event, I do sell Genuine OEM parts to TN members for 30% off MSRP plus actual shipping charges and $1.00 - $2.00 for materials. In fact, that would mean the OEM VSV would be about $5.00 cheaper without shipping. I happen to agree with one of the posts and say at least save yourself the aggrivation and use an OEM part so you know you are getting the right part and a quality part, whether you buy it from me or not.

Good Luck

2001 Camry 2.2 4Cyl

I pretty much have checked everything else.....ERG seems to be working and the light will go off for a day or two then come back.......no leaks in the vaccum lines.....and from what i've read the VSV or Solenoid or whatevever it is called fixes the problem 90% of the time.....

 

[stlwil]

vsv

i would almost bet money that is the fix...the part in the adv auto link....espically if ur always getting the check engine lite on real hot days and not on cool days...wen those fail the will checkout fine UNTIL ITS HOT:thumbsup:

 

[Nervous]

IMO, in order to fix that effectively and correctly, you should replace the EGR valve (25620-74050) and the EGR modulator (25870-74090) and the VSV(25860-74050).

Ha-ha! Toyota part salesman here, replace everything :naughty: That is, actually, how stealerships "fixing" this problem: they just rip you off, replacing all the stuff above w/o any diagnostic. And the EGR valve, modulator and VSV are not cheap at all!

 

[Nervous]

In fact, that would mean the OEM VSV would be about $5.00 cheaper without shipping.

Cheaper than what? MSRP? Which is $78? So, it will be $73 right?

WWW.PARTZNET.COM - $57.93
Coupon code: fbook5 gives additional 5% off, expires midnight tonight.

 

[TOYOPARTSMAN]

I certainly can respect your postion. I am not here to rip off anyone. Let me ask you something, what would you think if you came in and we said, it is the vsv, it is $78.00 plus labor, then a week later your light comes back on and you now can choose between the EGR valve or modulator? I am guessing you would now want us to fix it for free. I have been there and done that. So, we fix it right the first time without any reason for you to come back for that repair. Again, we don't have the luxury as a DIYer to just try things and hope it fixes it at a bargain rate.

By the way, if you figure 30% off MSRP that would be $54.80 before shipping.

In any event, I am not here to sell anything to anyone. I am in here to offer the experiences I have seen. I guarantee I have seen more Camry's than most in here have and have seen all the things that can and have gone with them. I have also seen what we have had to do after someone has tried to do a less expensive repair. But to call me a TYPICAL parts sales person just trying to sell parts, well, you'll have to askl the other members about that, and look at my posts. All I do, is provide the information and a place where the TN members can get OEM parts at an affordablel price. If someone wants to take advantage of that, great, if not, I wish them the best. But no matter what they do, or where they buy from, I always encourage them to contact me if they have any questions at all.

 

[TOYOPARTSMAN]

Ikeman,
Please do whatever you feel comfortable with, from whomever you feel comfortable with. If you have a good mechanic, keep using them. If you have a great parts source, please keep using them. If not, and you want a place to get OEM part at an affordable price, feel free to contact me. Whatever you choose, feel free to contact me with any questions, or if you need anything, even if you don't buy from me.

Good luck

 

[Nervous]

I certainly can respect your postion. I am not here to rip off anyone. Let me ask you something, what would you think if you came in and we said, it is the vsv, it is $78.00 plus labor, then a week later your light comes back on and you now can choose between the EGR valve or modulator? I am guessing you would now want us to fix it for free. I have been there and done that. So, we fix it right the first time without any reason for you to come back for that repair. Again, we don't have the luxury as a DIYer to just try things and hope it fixes it at a bargain rate.

I would say that you, guys, are bad diagnosticians and mechanics and I would ask to install my old VSV back and return my money. Of course, stealerships do not like it, and that is why they rip you off for all three parts (which is in total would be around $289 + labor. Even if the problem was in vacuum leak (tubes cost several dollars) or clogged EGR pipe! And if the problem is in EGR pipe I still will come back and ask - "WTF"? Let just replace whole engine, just to make sure the customer would never comeback with the same problem, how's about that?

Here people mostly are DIYer and the advise to replace all three pretty expensive parts without proper diagnostic is kinda ridiculous.

To OP: actually, EGR valve is pretty rarely going bad, unless it is clogged badly. And it is really easy to diagnose if it is good or not by applying vacuum to its port and see if engine stalls or run roughly. Read the links I gave you. Mechanics at stealerships are either ignorant, lazy or just can't read, so they are unable to perform these simple tests.

 

[TOYOPARTSMAN]

Well, we have just agreed to disagree. I respect your postion and I am not here to, nor will I, exchange insults. I appreciate your opinion and wish you the very best in life. It is appearant that you will not be visiting my dealership, nor any others for that manner, so we will just call it what it is. We have agreed to disagree.

 

[Ikeman01]

Yeow ....didn't mean to cause a riff.....just wanted to know the original question......Is the VSV the same as a EGR Control Solenoid?

but thanks for all the advice!!

 

[Nervous]

According to the image - it is. But we with TOYOPARTSMAN recommend you to stay away from those unknown unnamed parts; especially, when the price is comparable with the price of the OEM part. $54 for OEM from TOYOPARTSMAN is very good price (or 57 from partznet.com), actually. However, I am repeating: do your homework, do some simple tests to make sure this is the failed part. Otherwise, you'll throw your money away.

 

[ed0628]

I am also relatively new to this Forum. I read the threads and I am concerned that we may be turning this Forum into something different than had been envisioned by it's founder. Rightly or wrongly, there has to be mutual respect between the participants. I still feel that it is OK to express an opinion and agree to disagree. We see this occurring daily in our nation when people disagree, they are labeled by other groups. Whatever happened to "having a dialogue" ?

Not a sermon, just a thought!

I want to comment on the meaning and usage of the CODES. For those of us who are still learning this stuff, here is my take: A code reading i. e. PO401, describes the general area of the malfunction. It is not intended to identify the defective part or system. There is a Test Procedure PO401 that requires a step-by- step sequence be followed to diagnose and isolate the problem. The code is actually the title of the test procedure used to diagnose the malfunction. Any shop worth it's salt has a Data System. The days of guessing and shot-gunning parts replacement are long gone. ALLDATA sells subscriptions for any automobile repairs [I am not on their payroll]. There are other Data Companies out there.

Not another sermon, just another thought!

ed0628

 

[TOYOPARTSMAN]

I am going to restate and aggree with Nervous, don't use an aftermarket no name brand. You never know what you'll get. I also agree with Nervous in the sense you should do your homework. As a DIYer, you have options that we, for a better term, don't have the luxury and cover ourselfs, don't. Without reading the threads that Nervous posted(and I will) carbon from the modulator is the cause for the VSV to go bad. Carbon from the modulator comes from the EGR valve. With that being said, as a DIYer, what you can do, is remove the cap on top of the modulator, and carefully clean it out without destroying it. I have heard some success, I have also heard of some failure. The reinstall it. If the carbon is really bad, I would then suggest removing the EGR valve and look and see if ther is carbon buildup, if so, do a real good job of removing it. You may or may not be successful. When you put the EGR back on, don't forget to use new gaskets.

This may help your code and save you a few bucks, it may not, but it is an option you have that we might not neccessarily do for a number of reasons.

I know Nervous may think that I just want to throw parts at you, and I assure you that isn't the case. I want your repair to go as smoothly and as uncomplicated as possible without you having to go back and do it a second time. I only offer you the wisdom of what I personally have seen over the years. Do your research and gather the information that has been provided to you in this post and others, and make the best possible decision for your situation. I do believe that Nervous is truly looking after and in the best interest of the TN members, as I am. I just think we both go about it in two different ways, and that is okay. I will never, and never do, think I know it all.

Good luck

 

[Nervous]

Gary, peace! :chug:
I'm sorry if I insulted you. And if you are really selling parts with 30% off MSRP it looks a very good deal for us, DIYer. Since, even though I would never go to dealership for repairs, but I definitely go there for parts. :chug:
P.S. However, there are some parts I would never buy OEM. For example, front pipe/catalytic - $1300 for 1MZ.

 

[TOYOPARTSMAN]

PEACE BACK AT YOU :chug:
Yes, I really do sell at 30% off MSRP and I only charge actual shipping costs plus $1.00 - $2.00 for materials, etc. So, when you do need OEM parts, don't hesitate to contact me. My shipping isn't dollar or percentage based like some other sites, and they are Genuine OEM parts. :thumbsup:

I don't blame anyone in here for trying to save a buck or two, that is why I am in here. To offer my advice, experience, information, and a place to get affordable and reasonably priced OEM parts. :clap:

 

[Nervous]

I want to comment on the meaning and usage of the CODES. For those of us who are still learning this stuff, here is my take: A code reading i. e. PO401, describes the general area of the malfunction. It is not intended to identify the defective part or system.

Totally agree! That is why replacing VSV or even all three parts (VSV, EGR, modulator) without any diagnostic is not a good idea.

ALLDATA sells subscriptions for any automobile repairs [I am not on their payroll]. There are other Data Companies out there.

Not another sermon, just another thought!

ed0628

Alldata, Mitchell, Shopkey are not for DIYer pricewise. And they are not that great, I had experience with all of them: they are trying to be jack of all trades and ending up to be master of none. They are trying to have info about virtually every existing/existed car/model, but as a result of it the info is very brief, incomplete and sometimes even wrong.

Nothing is better than Factory Service Manual and TN! :thumbsup: